Nachaluva's Foz

Proton mouse · Post by **Proton mouse** » Sun Feb 02, 2014 2:51 pm

Hmmm, ok, I understand what you mean but have never heard of that before nor concerned myself with it
(other than just generally wiped of excess)
Once band is in its groove and tightened with the proper tool (do you have?) it is quite
air tight, and will not slide off, hence the importance of balancing the joint on the shaft
(come to think of it, most workshop manuals will give you a specific measurement of how far on the joint should be when doing up the boot)

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 10:22 pm

If you leave any grease on the sealing area, then you have a higher chance of the grease weeping out when it gets hot. Depends on the banding tool but I still am a little fussy when it comes to grease.

Oh and I love those bonnet struts

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Fri May 02, 2014 2:23 pm

ktmtragic wrote:Triple oil change Why??

Only just saw this. The idea is first oil change to have clean oil when doing the flush so it works better. 2nd change to remove all the flush, 3rd change is the good oil to leave in

Update on work done...
The rear CV boots were leaking slightly so I put new bands on them.

My nice pLSD rear with its expensive Redline Shockproof oil got water in it when the diff breather plug came out

So I did several flushes to thoroughly clean it out. Put in Penrite mineral oil, mineral is meant to make the plated LSDs work better, although the synthetic makes it smoother. So far havent noticed any difference, although I have felt the LSD really work a few times so I'm happy

Also redid the diff breather, this time with a brass fitting. I used a 1/4" barbed hose tail on a 1/4" BSP fitting, available from just about anywhere. Had too remove the diff, remove the back plate, tap the existing hole then clean up the filings. Trick is to put the plate back on first then the fitting so you can do up the bolts lol. Also used a smidge of gasket goo to make 100% certain it was fully sealed. Also used a small clamp on the hose. Aint no water getting in there now!

Note the twin spline on the right axle, took a while to find these...

I also did a front breather for the gearbox/diff as I got some water in there too.

The idea is if I go REALLY deep, lol, & some water splashes up into that top corner behind the strut, and if it gets sucked in, then it has to fill up the filter before it gets sucked into the diff. Should be pretty safe now...

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Fri May 02, 2014 2:36 pm

Had leaking front axle oil seals in the gearbox.
With exhaust removed:

Tricky getting the axle stub not to move while putting the diff retainer back on:

Despite being assured it wasnt too hard to do, I was worried about the diff backlash & preload, so I headed off to Rick for him to do it. Subaru, in their wisdom, had given me rear diff seals, not front diff, fortunately Rick had a spare set there, so all was good. He adjusted the diff for me & I was a happy chappy.

It now has Penrite synthetic 75W90 plus a litre of Redline Lightweight Shockproof. Still the same when the box is cold, but once its warmed up the changes are heaps smoother. The Smurf blood will also help protect the LR when it gets starved of oil on long steep ascents

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Fri May 02, 2014 7:01 pm

Another thing I havent put in here yet is my fuel filler cap upgrade. I decided it was too tiring to put the cap on the filler flap, and turning around to put it on the bowser behind me was just way too much work, so I needed an upgrade!

Before:

After:

The ultimate lazy way to fill up. The only thing better would be to get Tony Abbott to pay for me!

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Sat May 03, 2014 8:11 am

It's the small things that count

My bg5 legacy has a cap holder on the inside of the lid.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat May 03, 2014 10:03 am

Nice work Nachaluva!

Fun fun with that oil

Was that from Walhalla??

There are L series out there with a frame device incorporating the fuel cap - all you do is unscrew the cap, lift it a tiny bit then you can drop it, the frame folds out like an arm and holds the cap below the filler. Wish I'd grabbed one now, I thought about it...

Cheers

Bennie

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat May 03, 2014 1:46 pm

I dont know how2 I managed physically moving the cap in the old days lol

Yeah I've seen those folding frame ones. This was from a Liberty I think. Just drilled a little hole & riveted the strap...done!

Bumpty, if you look at the inside of the fuel filler lid, you can see where there is a spot to store the cap while filling on mine too...but it was too much work! hahaha

BTW, the water/mud got into the diff & gearbox at Wombat. Didnt think the bog holes were that deep but I guess a hot diff sucks water in quickly as it cools.

May have been this one:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m31CTxTw ... GCX7_j2yNY

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat May 03, 2014 2:09 pm

To show the LSD in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrWaz_RqA-Q

Despite repeatedly lifting a front wheel (open diff), the rear LSD keeps pushing me up the hill. There was a large diagonal rut where I stopped but I think I could have made it...if the track hadnt ended lol

The snorkel & breathers in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0-4OQQY-2M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9ru_81HnRM

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Sat May 03, 2014 2:13 pm

Uh...your fuel filler flap looks like it already has a cap holder...see where it says "CAP"? You just put it in there with a quarter turn to screw it in position. I could be wrong but looks that way to me?

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat May 03, 2014 2:23 pm

Yep, thats right, but it took too much concentration! This way I just undo the cap & drop it. Cant get any easier lol

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Sat May 03, 2014 2:41 pm

Agreed. My work car (Getz) has it and it's the best feature. Actually it's the only feature.

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat May 03, 2014 4:00 pm

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Sun May 04, 2014 8:32 am

AndrewT wrote:Agreed. My work car (Getz) has it and it's the best feature. Actually it's the only feature.

Hahaha

+1 to the above
Just unscrew and drop. Is the easiest!
I want one now!

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sun May 04, 2014 2:09 pm

Bumpty wrote: Just unscrew and drop. Is the easiest!
I want one now!

Check out wreckers next time you go, I think it was from a Liberty

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue May 06, 2014 11:54 am

I can't remember which car of mine has it but it was definitely a Subaru and the fuel cap sort of hinged down off the filler. Might have been the SVX? but she's locked away in the shed

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Tue May 06, 2014 12:23 pm

Some Ls have that. I thought about using one of them but IIRC it didnt fit

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Fri May 30, 2014 5:42 pm

Marvin the Foz turned 200,000kms old:

So I gave him a present & replaced his rack ends & boots, tie rod ends & ball joints

The old rack ends were horribly worn & clunking on bumps. It also made the car wander everywhere...horrible! He now steers nicely

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri May 30, 2014 7:13 pm

Nice work Matt.. I'm sure you'll get another 200,000 out of it without any trouble

Looking at your sway bar attachment bracket on your lower control arm looks a little bent? Do you not have these attached?

Speaking of sway bays.. How does your quick release system on the rear working out for you? any issues?

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Fri May 30, 2014 7:47 pm

RSR 555 wrote:Nice work Matt.. I'm sure you'll get another 200,000 out of it without any trouble

I need to do my offroad gearbox so its easier on the car on the steep rocky tracks we get here. Then I can aim for the magic 1/2 million lol

Looking at your sway bar attachment bracket on your lower control arm looks a little bent? Do you not have these attached?

Speaking of sway bays.. How does your quick release system on the rear working out for you? any issues?

With the wheel at full droop like that, the brackets are on a fair angle but not bent. Might have to level out the hole the bolt goes through & weld a washer on to strengthen it.

I've had the RSB disconnected for a while now waiting to fit my 1" body kit (which will put the lateral links on more angle) & mod those endlink brackets too. The quick disconnects work well though. I still have to check out some SS ones, I think you were interested in that?