88 WRX Touring Wagon Project
Bratgeebah's kit has arrived & been fitted, meaning
I HAVE BRAKES!!!!
I can finally move the car again without fear of it disappearing 15 houses down the cross street across from my house.
Next stage is to tow it the radiator shop to get the rad top pipe modded to fit.
Also need to take it to a brake shop to get new rear brake lines made up.
I HAVE BRAKES!!!!
I can finally move the car again without fear of it disappearing 15 houses down the cross street across from my house.
Next stage is to tow it the radiator shop to get the rad top pipe modded to fit.
Also need to take it to a brake shop to get new rear brake lines made up.
- Chris_Rogers
- General Member
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- Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Brisbane
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Will post up pics of the brakes in the process of fitting tomorrow (internet connection at home is too slow for imageshack)
Not much clearance between factory WRX 17" rim & rear suspension arm, but it still clears though.
The other advantage of the kit is that it moved the rear wheels inboard about 5mm or so each so I hopefully am not going to need to get the rear guards pumped, though the inner lip will still need to be rolled.
Need to "clearance" the sway bar mounts to miss the handbrake cable, but doesn't look like too much work.
Not much clearance between factory WRX 17" rim & rear suspension arm, but it still clears though.
The other advantage of the kit is that it moved the rear wheels inboard about 5mm or so each so I hopefully am not going to need to get the rear guards pumped, though the inner lip will still need to be rolled.
Need to "clearance" the sway bar mounts to miss the handbrake cable, but doesn't look like too much work.
- Chris_Rogers
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- Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 10:00 am
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I'm still working on using the factory L item.
I've got access to another rotten shell which I'm going to tip on its side with the rear suspension & tailshaft still in place.
Going to then massacre the spare L lever I've got.
Basically aiming to run a single cable up the trans tunnel & then split into 2 in the void under the rear seat.
I had a really crazy idea of simply running the Lib cables up the sills & then joint them to the L cables which are gently looped around somehow.
Absolutely no lever mods at all!! But you'd have an exposed joining of the cables. Plus they're not protected up in the trans tunnel.
I've got access to another rotten shell which I'm going to tip on its side with the rear suspension & tailshaft still in place.
Going to then massacre the spare L lever I've got.
Basically aiming to run a single cable up the trans tunnel & then split into 2 in the void under the rear seat.
I had a really crazy idea of simply running the Lib cables up the sills & then joint them to the L cables which are gently looped around somehow.
Absolutely no lever mods at all!! But you'd have an exposed joining of the cables. Plus they're not protected up in the trans tunnel.
- Chris_Rogers
- General Member
- Posts: 1155
- Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Brisbane
- Contact:
- Chris_Rogers
- General Member
- Posts: 1155
- Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Brisbane
- Contact:
I've had new brake line made up for the rear end to suit the disc brake rear trailing arms.
Also, I've had this brilliant idea with the help of a friend where you use the existing L handbrake & cables, plus the EJ cables
How's this for a handbrake idea
No mods required to the factory lever.
No mods required to the centre console
No extra holes to be drilled all the way through the floor.
Extra mounts for the cables are required though.
There is no bindage with this setup (ie the cables aren't on too tight a bend)
Now to figure out how to join the 2 cables together....
Also, I've had this brilliant idea with the help of a friend where you use the existing L handbrake & cables, plus the EJ cables
How's this for a handbrake idea
No mods required to the factory lever.
No mods required to the centre console
No extra holes to be drilled all the way through the floor.
Extra mounts for the cables are required though.
There is no bindage with this setup (ie the cables aren't on too tight a bend)
Now to figure out how to join the 2 cables together....
- Chris_Rogers
- General Member
- Posts: 1155
- Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Brisbane
- Contact:
- Chris_Rogers
- General Member
- Posts: 1155
- Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Brisbane
- Contact:
I'm going to take 2 sample cables to a cable doctor tomorrow.
I'll ask the question about making up one.
I'm a little dubious about reproducing the end where it fits into the EJ backing plates...
I really would've liked to have used a leather Lib RS turbo lever, but it just doesn't match the console (for a Vortex on the other hand)
I'll ask the question about making up one.
I'm a little dubious about reproducing the end where it fits into the EJ backing plates...
I really would've liked to have used a leather Lib RS turbo lever, but it just doesn't match the console (for a Vortex on the other hand)
- subarursliberty
- Junior Member
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- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: South West Sydney
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meh, I needed to take some frustration out on something anyway.
And I couldn't bash it anymore as it didn't have a straight panel left.
Was $17 just for a bare shell, or rolling, or what? I've got a lot of other metal to go with it.
Beside $17 is at least 3 beers at the pub.
Went to the cable doctor today.
It took a while to explain to him that I only wanted the cable inners joined, not both cables together. Which turns out that while its doable, its most likely not legal or engineerable.
New cable inner is $47ea, or a complete new assembly is $80ea. So that's $160.
Still going to think about a floating metal bracket that fits onto each cable end though. Just going to have to seal it in.
And I couldn't bash it anymore as it didn't have a straight panel left.
Was $17 just for a bare shell, or rolling, or what? I've got a lot of other metal to go with it.
Beside $17 is at least 3 beers at the pub.
Went to the cable doctor today.
It took a while to explain to him that I only wanted the cable inners joined, not both cables together. Which turns out that while its doable, its most likely not legal or engineerable.
New cable inner is $47ea, or a complete new assembly is $80ea. So that's $160.
Still going to think about a floating metal bracket that fits onto each cable end though. Just going to have to seal it in.
- Chris_Rogers
- General Member
- Posts: 1155
- Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Brisbane
- Contact: