Calling all tradies
- markhansen1983
- Junior Member
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 8:02 am
- Location: QLD
Calling all tradies
Hi guys, I've got a small 3 bedroom brick home. It has a wood garage attached which is partly closed in. I'm looking to turn in from a garage into a closed in room as part of the house. Bricking it in would be very expensive, and I'm wondering what are my alternatives? Something fairly cheap, matches brick and is available fairly freely...Any ideas? I've attached a photo of it as is, and also a (very) rough sketch of how I expect it to look. Just not sure what to make this out of..?
Thanks heaps for any advice, as this will be our first extension
Thanks heaps for any advice, as this will be our first extension
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- markhansen1983
- Junior Member
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 8:02 am
- Location: QLD
- Gannon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4580
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
Cheapest will probably be a fibro exterior with plasterboard interior. Best you employ a licensed builder, because a lean to garage does not usually meet occupancy strength requirements, and if the local council find out you have illegally built a room, they may condemn it
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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- markhansen1983
- Junior Member
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 8:02 am
- Location: QLD
Right, my 2 cents worth. I would leave the 100mm square posts in place and get some steel frames made up to fit in between them (quicker than making up your own wooden ones and cheap as chips). Then I would plasterboard the inside and blueboard the outside. I would also insulate all walls and the ceiling since it hangs off the side of the house and has no verandah.
Other points
1. Usually councils are not as strict about the structure if the area to be inclosed dosen't qualify as a 'class one living area' (ie a kitchen/bedroom/lounge etc). If you are going to submit any plans to council you can state that it is going to be used as a workshop or garage and it will get passed a lot easier.
2. If you are going to do it on the sly make sure that no council workers can see you do it. You would be suprised at the amount of people that don't know that garbo's are supposed to report any construction that dosen't have a builders sign with licence number on it out the front.
3. Councils also use google earth and particularly nearmaps to detect unauthorised constructions, you should be pretty safe as you are not going to alter the roofline.
4. Last but not least, for gods sake sit down and plan/cost it all out before you start. Making it up as you go along WILL cost you time/money and sanity. And there is nothing worse than having to tear down something you have built because you forgot to put in that wiring/pipework/crossbracing etc.
Good luck with it.
Corax.
Other points
1. Usually councils are not as strict about the structure if the area to be inclosed dosen't qualify as a 'class one living area' (ie a kitchen/bedroom/lounge etc). If you are going to submit any plans to council you can state that it is going to be used as a workshop or garage and it will get passed a lot easier.
2. If you are going to do it on the sly make sure that no council workers can see you do it. You would be suprised at the amount of people that don't know that garbo's are supposed to report any construction that dosen't have a builders sign with licence number on it out the front.
3. Councils also use google earth and particularly nearmaps to detect unauthorised constructions, you should be pretty safe as you are not going to alter the roofline.
4. Last but not least, for gods sake sit down and plan/cost it all out before you start. Making it up as you go along WILL cost you time/money and sanity. And there is nothing worse than having to tear down something you have built because you forgot to put in that wiring/pipework/crossbracing etc.
Good luck with it.
Corax.
- markhansen1983
- Junior Member
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 8:02 am
- Location: QLD
If you want to do it properly it will cost big $ no matter what cladding you use.
To get council you will need a building designer to do plans and to the BCA standard. This means you will need to rip up the slab and start again so you have the correct termite and damp proof barriers.
You can still build yourslef if you want to go owner builder this will be much cheaper and you can claim as under $11000 and you will not need to do a course.
My suggestion would be to fill between the posts with a pre fab panel and do yourslef with no approval. Patio company's do what is called a queensland room which is designed to fill in old patios/ carports with glazed units that fit between the posts. But even this will breach the barrier on the existing timber posts.
Cheers
Troy
To get council you will need a building designer to do plans and to the BCA standard. This means you will need to rip up the slab and start again so you have the correct termite and damp proof barriers.
You can still build yourslef if you want to go owner builder this will be much cheaper and you can claim as under $11000 and you will not need to do a course.
My suggestion would be to fill between the posts with a pre fab panel and do yourslef with no approval. Patio company's do what is called a queensland room which is designed to fill in old patios/ carports with glazed units that fit between the posts. But even this will breach the barrier on the existing timber posts.
Cheers
Troy
Hardiplank also looks good with brick we have it on our verandah and the rear of the house as we wanted to reduce the cost of the house (3 x Bedroom) but not detract from the street appeal. If you paint it a color close to the main color of your brickwork then it will not look out of place either.
Example:

Here is what ours looks like on one of the back RH corner, the color is Wheat (I think).

Example:

Here is what ours looks like on one of the back RH corner, the color is Wheat (I think).

Peter

