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I started off about 4hrs ago sanding back a patch on the roof of the L series about the size of 2 x 50c pieces. There was a bit of surface rust but nothing much else. I feathered the edges, cleaned things down properly and applied a light coat of primer filler. As this was drying the original paint started to lift on the edges of where the damaged section finished and the original paint started. I let things dry and sanded the original/lifted paint off again ready for more primer filler. Same thing happened even though, as before I had only applied a light coat. Sanded things back again and tried only etch primer. Same thing again. by now the area I was spraying had tured in something the size of a bill, ie, 10, 20, 50 etc dollar bill which is way out of hand from where things started. The primer filler, etch primer and paint are all for acrylic paints so what am I missing ?
When the original paint is lifting off it is only going back to the original undercoat which I guess is a good thing as I am not going back to bare metal. Any thoughts on what is causing this ?
I am now up to the stage of applying the white acrylic paint very slowly and in very light coats and if the edges lift slighty I am lightly sanding this back, letting it dry and putting more white on.
While I hope I have sorted this spot out there is a fair bit more to be done on the roof such on top of the windscreen and above the gutters in a couple of places.

I know what you mean with the L series paint; dad backed into a pile of wire in his and the little scratch slowly flaked away into a large patch. Then he had the bright idea of hitting it with a pressure washer Ended up with about 4 big bare patches.

I re-did his tailgate by first sanding with an orbital sander then grey primer and white paint and didn't have any issues. When the paint lifts up on yours is it lifting up in flakes or is it bubbling around the edges?

Flakes or bubbling .....Good Question.
If it is dry paint it flakes. If I put filler/primer/top coat on it bubbles.
I have no idea.

Have seen done this before and cannot recall why it was. Also seen a cheaper range of same brand paint for concrete floors do it to the more durable paint that had been down for a few years. Lazy did not want to feather the edges of 226 square metres so copped this effect lifting old paint at those edges. Unsure again if it was painted with same Berger Jet Dry enamel quality whether woulda done same. Feel your pain there.....

bondcrete...neat , seals all sorts of flaky paint crud for a good bond for your latest application, dunno how well it would work in your auto application !

Very unhappy at the moment.............
Noticed a loose/flaking bit of paint and pulled it......................big mistake.
I now have about 1/2 the gutter and side part of the roof on the drivers side to repaint as it all peeled off back to the original undercoat.
Going to bed very peeeeeeeeeed off.

you are reminding me of my first patch up job now...... did it like in the how to book - masked up the area about postcard size (like in the book) built up a few extra layers of primer then the mismatch top coat of duplicolour . Typical balls up - those how to manual authors must be eediots or having a good laugh at their readers. No tradie attempts this sort of touch up other than the specialist touch up guys

Cliff is the undercoat on yours that shiny green stuff? Not sure how paint is supposed to stay stuck to that in the first place

It sounds like the primer isnt compatible with the original paint & is reacting with it.

I only have a limited knowledge of paints...are there different types of primer filler, ie, enamel, acrylic?

My guess would be the same as nachaluva, paints reacting,
How old is the original paint?
I'm thinking you will have to take it all (the panel / area you want to do) back to bare metal.
If i found a car like this (rust bubbles / flaking) I would take it all off and start from bare metal.

I have seen pro's try to hide it by doing what you did (only the area needed), but only to find the same result in a couple of years time.

Make sure you use a primer filler / primer / & Paint that are all compatible (most should be)
Do you use wax & grease remover?
How many coats of each paint are you planning to use?

Cheers Cam

need a paint shop supply joint to resume trade after the hols for some good advice me thinks

steptoe wrote:need a paint shop supply joint to resume trade after the hols for some good advice me thinks

Yep, or if your local Autobarn has a paint area, AND someone there who knows what they are doing. (mine does) Then try there.

You need to use a 2k Primer filler. Dont waste your time with autobarn/SCA rubbish.

You need to use what the pros use. Can and acrylic stuff is rubbish 1978 technology.

SCA is rubbish, Autobarn is rubbish, unless...
If you get them to mix it up for you, that stuff is great
off the shelf, NEVER, bother with.

OK, I got up at 6am this morning and took the whole area back to metal or undercoat.
When we got back from Newcastle this afternoon I took to the lot with grease and wax remover and am now in the process on putting about 20 very fine coates of etch primer on. I have noted if I put the primer on too much a bit of bubbling takes place. If this happens I leave it to dry, sand the bubbled area back, wax and grease remove again and go back to very fine coates.
To do this job properly I would need to do the entire roof.
I am not in a postion to do this for quite some time so will continue to "baby" any areas I need to do to get the job done. I dont see this as a bodgy job as I have high standards when it comes to the work I do. Afterall, as I say to my apprentices. "when you have finished a job can you honestly say you are happy to put your name to the finished product. If you arent the job is not finished so finish it or do it again till you get it right"
As I dont have a correct paint code for the car I am also testing areas out till I find a white that is close.
Unfortunatly, this morning I created a "test spot" by leaving a piece of rag with thinners on the roof so creating an area about the size of a 50 cent piece back to the undercoat. I have cleaned this bit up and undercoated this spot this afternoon and am presently applying some white to see how it goes.

I found an auto paint supply joint that matched the paint for me, took a dab out to the car, tested it, added a bit more tint until he got it right. No nned to find a paint code that matches

when i got my other car painted they said if its 2pack orignally painted then arcylic paint wont work it will flake off but if you use 2pack on arcylic paint then the paint will stick and wont flake off so if you use 2pack it will stick to both and shouldnt peel well thats what im lead to believe


tristan

some videos may

http://www.ehow.com/videos-on_497_repai ... amage.html

hell have you tried a search for the paint condition

Unique cars and parts have a colour code list for Subaru by year date colour choice

http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/co ... subaru.htm

90brumby wrote:when i got my other car painted they said if its 2pack orignally painted then arcylic paint wont work it will flake off but if you use 2pack on arcylic paint then the paint will stick and wont flake off so if you use 2pack it will stick to both and shouldnt peel well thats what im lead to believe

tristan

yep that's what I thought too