Silverbullet
Thanks for the info.
My gasless MIG is 10A and the gas/gasless MIG is 15A.
Funnings sell the Ozito brand MIG's (and other machines) and I agree you get what you pay for with these. I have an Ozito router and it is a bit ordinary.
I see Supercheap have the Cigweld weldskill 135 MIG Welder with wire control speed and a voltage control. Its good for 30 to 135A, appears to have a voltage control ability and is 10A.
It looks to be a fairly small machine which is fine.
Might have to have a look at it.
I am very interested in the transformer vs inverter thing. Am I understanding right that the inverter type is less inclined to trip earth leakage circuit breakers ?
Hole repairs
-
Silverbullet
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2867
- Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:20 pm
- Location: Adelaide
Inverter = lighter 
Not sure on the tripping circuit breakers part. Inverters are more finely adjustable, better duty cycle (not really an issue here though) maybe smoother power delivery? The weldskill 135 looks like it's a transformer type but pretty decent, would probably do what you want.
Not sure on the tripping circuit breakers part. Inverters are more finely adjustable, better duty cycle (not really an issue here though) maybe smoother power delivery? The weldskill 135 looks like it's a transformer type but pretty decent, would probably do what you want.
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
Lighter is good.
Those MIG transformers are damn heavy.
While I wait to see if anyone else has any comments I will research the Cigweld machines and see at what point and cost they go from transformer to inverter.
If an inverter model has less chance of tripping earth leakage and it is still affordable I will go that way as this would mean I can carry out the work in our new house. If I have to go with a transformer type which may trip earth leakage I will have to take the car to our old house (around the corner, it is a 1k drive) but this is a pain as the shed there is full of stuff meaning complete reorganising is needed to fit a car in there.
Regardless of who does the work I still have to pull/get access to between the roof and the solid cast roof lining so this will be an upcoming task.
Those MIG transformers are damn heavy.
While I wait to see if anyone else has any comments I will research the Cigweld machines and see at what point and cost they go from transformer to inverter.
If an inverter model has less chance of tripping earth leakage and it is still affordable I will go that way as this would mean I can carry out the work in our new house. If I have to go with a transformer type which may trip earth leakage I will have to take the car to our old house (around the corner, it is a 1k drive) but this is a pain as the shed there is full of stuff meaning complete reorganising is needed to fit a car in there.
Regardless of who does the work I still have to pull/get access to between the roof and the solid cast roof lining so this will be an upcoming task.
Following is where things are up to with the roof repairs.
The roof suffered some distortion when I initially used 0.8 MIG gasless wire but it helped when I picked up a disposable bottle of Argon and went to 0.6 gassed wire in the MIG.
I am still astounded with the flex in the roof even with the 3 cross roof channels and seam sealant applied.
One piece of info I would like to pass on is, I wanted something flexible to sit between the rear roof channel which ran under where all the damage was and the roof. Seam sealant wasn't giving me the packing support I wanted so I bought some sound insulation material off ebay. This material hasn't arrived yet and would probably be too thin anyway.
Yesterday, I had a light bulb moment.
Has anyone noted what can be used to pack between large pavers and probably concrete pads. It used to be a tar sort of based solid strip but when I wanted to provide an expansion joint between concrete steps that I was using to pave out the front of the garage I ended up with a roll of a sort of sturdy/semi solid/self adhesive material.
The light bulb moment was when I realised I still had a fair bit of the roll left.
Here is a piece.
With hours spent on this and a hell of a lot of sweat and swearing this is where things are currently at.
And this.
Where the roll of packing came into it was (between the roof and channel)
And adhered up under the roof to provide at lease some rigidity.
Note the piece of Aluminium. I originally intended to include 6 of these strips between the second and the third channels (from the front of the car) to provide more rigidity. They sit nicely between the 2 channels and would only need some seam sealer adhesive to hold them onto the adhesive foam packing.
They work very well and all this sits between the underside of the roof and the solid roof lining.
Haven't decided which way to go yet but with the strips installed the roof becomes much more solid yet will still flex slightly.
By the way, the seal sealer I used was from Autopro and is a tube (used with a silastic gun) Motospray, Polyurethane Adhesive & Sealant (it is semi flexible with slump resistant properties)
Once I sort out if I am going to fit the alloy strips or not I will be ready to start work on the outside of the roof re filling the differences in the roof and painting etc.
All this has cost me about $600 to $700 bucks but this cost includes things like new air compressor, new MIG welder and a multitude of air tools/sanders etc.
I realise I could have taken the car to a panel beaters and had it back in a matter of days instead of months but with the added, new tools and the experience it will hopefully be worth it.
More to come later.
The roof suffered some distortion when I initially used 0.8 MIG gasless wire but it helped when I picked up a disposable bottle of Argon and went to 0.6 gassed wire in the MIG.
I am still astounded with the flex in the roof even with the 3 cross roof channels and seam sealant applied.
One piece of info I would like to pass on is, I wanted something flexible to sit between the rear roof channel which ran under where all the damage was and the roof. Seam sealant wasn't giving me the packing support I wanted so I bought some sound insulation material off ebay. This material hasn't arrived yet and would probably be too thin anyway.
Yesterday, I had a light bulb moment.
Has anyone noted what can be used to pack between large pavers and probably concrete pads. It used to be a tar sort of based solid strip but when I wanted to provide an expansion joint between concrete steps that I was using to pave out the front of the garage I ended up with a roll of a sort of sturdy/semi solid/self adhesive material.
The light bulb moment was when I realised I still had a fair bit of the roll left.
Here is a piece.
With hours spent on this and a hell of a lot of sweat and swearing this is where things are currently at.
And this.
Where the roll of packing came into it was (between the roof and channel)
And adhered up under the roof to provide at lease some rigidity.
Note the piece of Aluminium. I originally intended to include 6 of these strips between the second and the third channels (from the front of the car) to provide more rigidity. They sit nicely between the 2 channels and would only need some seam sealer adhesive to hold them onto the adhesive foam packing.
They work very well and all this sits between the underside of the roof and the solid roof lining.
Haven't decided which way to go yet but with the strips installed the roof becomes much more solid yet will still flex slightly.
By the way, the seal sealer I used was from Autopro and is a tube (used with a silastic gun) Motospray, Polyurethane Adhesive & Sealant (it is semi flexible with slump resistant properties)
Once I sort out if I am going to fit the alloy strips or not I will be ready to start work on the outside of the roof re filling the differences in the roof and painting etc.
All this has cost me about $600 to $700 bucks but this cost includes things like new air compressor, new MIG welder and a multitude of air tools/sanders etc.
I realise I could have taken the car to a panel beaters and had it back in a matter of days instead of months but with the added, new tools and the experience it will hopefully be worth it.
More to come later.
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Bantum
- General Member
- Posts: 1923
- Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 4:30 pm
- Location: Northern Territory + QLD
- Contact:
Cool ...
Looking good there Cliff ... 
I wouldn't worry too much about adding alumina strips, not needed + adds excess weight. Just make sure to paint all the welds with some under coat primer before covering up.
Don't forget to add some sound deadener too ! ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
I wouldn't worry too much about adding alumina strips, not needed + adds excess weight. Just make sure to paint all the welds with some under coat primer before covering up.
Don't forget to add some sound deadener too ! ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
Bantum
I will mull it over re the strips.
I am paranoid about something pushing on the roof and it "pops in" and I end up with a dent.
The strips stop this.
The ebay insulation arrived today and it is 4mm thick.
I will chuck it up onto the roof as able.
Is it advisable to apply some paintable rust treatment/converter onto the bare metal, let it dry to do its job and sand it back off before filling ?
Thinking of letting the converter soak into the pores of the roof to catch anything missed with the process so far.
Thoughts please on if this is or isn't a good idea.
There are some very small holes left over from the welding process as I can see light through them.
There is absolutely no way I am going anywhere near the roof with a welder again so the hole will be sorted with the filler but I don't want any nasties trapped within the pores of the roof.
I will mull it over re the strips.
I am paranoid about something pushing on the roof and it "pops in" and I end up with a dent.
The strips stop this.
The ebay insulation arrived today and it is 4mm thick.
I will chuck it up onto the roof as able.
Is it advisable to apply some paintable rust treatment/converter onto the bare metal, let it dry to do its job and sand it back off before filling ?
Thinking of letting the converter soak into the pores of the roof to catch anything missed with the process so far.
Thoughts please on if this is or isn't a good idea.
There are some very small holes left over from the welding process as I can see light through them.
There is absolutely no way I am going anywhere near the roof with a welder again so the hole will be sorted with the filler but I don't want any nasties trapped within the pores of the roof.
The following is a bit of a rant (sort of)
This mess is still going on.
I see from my original post (Aug 14) I am going on for 9 months since starting the project.
The good news is the holes have been fixed, the roof is insulated and supported, the filler has been applied and now I am down to the PAINT !!!
The car has an original paint code of 15 (silver metallic) and I have just put out about $100 for 1 litre of No 15 mixed paint ready to spray on with the compressor and gun.
Problem.
I thought the original paint had lightened up but when applying some of the premix put into a can for me it is lighter again and looks crap.
I have tried to have this colour mixed by several different suppliers and the result is the same. Crap.
Going through the Autopro Holts Dupli colour range of silvers I found one I really liked so I put a cans worth onto the roof with clear coat (all from a can) and looks great and is closer to the original paint parts of the car that are un faded than the original No 15 paint.
It is a Holts Dupli color DSC67 (pewter) which I think is a Mitsubishi colour.
Great I think, here is a paint from a mainstream paint supplier in a can off the shelf that I like. Out of Autopro, Repco, and Supercheap which are our local suppliers only Autopro have the Holts I need and Supercheap don't carry that Holts code at all.
Damn.
Just ordered 6 cans from Autopro which might do half the roof.
Rant over for now.
This mess is still going on.
I see from my original post (Aug 14) I am going on for 9 months since starting the project.
The good news is the holes have been fixed, the roof is insulated and supported, the filler has been applied and now I am down to the PAINT !!!
The car has an original paint code of 15 (silver metallic) and I have just put out about $100 for 1 litre of No 15 mixed paint ready to spray on with the compressor and gun.
Problem.
I thought the original paint had lightened up but when applying some of the premix put into a can for me it is lighter again and looks crap.
I have tried to have this colour mixed by several different suppliers and the result is the same. Crap.
Going through the Autopro Holts Dupli colour range of silvers I found one I really liked so I put a cans worth onto the roof with clear coat (all from a can) and looks great and is closer to the original paint parts of the car that are un faded than the original No 15 paint.
It is a Holts Dupli color DSC67 (pewter) which I think is a Mitsubishi colour.
Great I think, here is a paint from a mainstream paint supplier in a can off the shelf that I like. Out of Autopro, Repco, and Supercheap which are our local suppliers only Autopro have the Holts I need and Supercheap don't carry that Holts code at all.
Damn.
Just ordered 6 cans from Autopro which might do half the roof.
Rant over for now.
-
Bantum
- General Member
- Posts: 1923
- Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 4:30 pm
- Location: Northern Territory + QLD
- Contact:
Rattle, Rattle ...
Sorry I missed your earlier Questions :
- I'd only use rust converter on 'untreated' rusty areas ( + let the acid do its job ) ...
- Just make sure to use an 'etch primer' for the undercoat ...
- As with most metallic paints, the 'colour' settles to the bottom - so you must stir well just before pouring from tin ( get a drill with stirrer attachment ) ... Or if in a spray can - Shake the sh#t out of it to get the particles free ...
Nothing wrong with rattle cans, but the spray gun will do a better job over large surfaces. Just make sure to get a light even coat & watch for runs, ( it just may take several light coats to get the required finish ) + put a clear coat on afterwards to match the factory finish.
You'll have to post some pictures of the process & finished roof now ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
- I'd only use rust converter on 'untreated' rusty areas ( + let the acid do its job ) ...
- Just make sure to use an 'etch primer' for the undercoat ...
- As with most metallic paints, the 'colour' settles to the bottom - so you must stir well just before pouring from tin ( get a drill with stirrer attachment ) ... Or if in a spray can - Shake the sh#t out of it to get the particles free ...
Nothing wrong with rattle cans, but the spray gun will do a better job over large surfaces. Just make sure to get a light even coat & watch for runs, ( it just may take several light coats to get the required finish ) + put a clear coat on afterwards to match the factory finish.
You'll have to post some pictures of the process & finished roof now ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
Sigh !!
I am determined to stick with the Holts Dupli color DSC67 Pewter.
It looks that good it is worth pursuing.
I went to Autopro today and went through the Holts manual to try to ID a car that uses the DSC67 paint.
I ended up with a Mitsubishi pewter Metallic with a paint code of KX or A45. Both of these codes are for different cars but both have the DSC67 as its Holts paint code.
Had 100ml mixed up and put into the 300ml pressure can for $25.
Unfortunately, it isn't the same by far. It is way too dark.
At the risk of wasting a heap of money going through every car with the DSC67 paint code I will do some more research but I would have thought the suppliers of the 150ml cans would also have the paint code to mix larger quantities.
Photos will be coming when I sort this paint thing out.
I just want the paint mixing codes for the DSC67 paint so I can get a larger quantity.
I am determined to stick with the Holts Dupli color DSC67 Pewter.
It looks that good it is worth pursuing.
I went to Autopro today and went through the Holts manual to try to ID a car that uses the DSC67 paint.
I ended up with a Mitsubishi pewter Metallic with a paint code of KX or A45. Both of these codes are for different cars but both have the DSC67 as its Holts paint code.
Had 100ml mixed up and put into the 300ml pressure can for $25.
Unfortunately, it isn't the same by far. It is way too dark.
At the risk of wasting a heap of money going through every car with the DSC67 paint code I will do some more research but I would have thought the suppliers of the 150ml cans would also have the paint code to mix larger quantities.
Photos will be coming when I sort this paint thing out.
I just want the paint mixing codes for the DSC67 paint so I can get a larger quantity.
This paint thing has now gone 5 shades of silly, literally.
The following photo shows the RH side of the roof with 3 shades of DSC67 on it. The first that is about 1/2 way up the driver widow is the original version I was going nuts over. It looks awesome though the photo doesn't do it justice. the darker patch towards the rear door is the version mixed yesterday using the KX/A45 paint recipe and the one in the middle is a factory supplied can from Holts coded DSC67.
Now I would have thought that the first can of Holts DCS67 which started everything would be the same as the middle colour which again is a factory Holts DSC67 but as you can see it isn't. I also would have thought the KX/A45 mixed at Autopro into a pressure can which is supposed to be a match for DSC67 would also match something but again it doesn't.
Today I went back to Autopro and had a small sample again made to the KX/A45 mix and tested it to any of the first 3 verstions of the DSC67 but it wasn't the same either.
So I have stopped and had a look at what I had achieved so far and certain things are obvious
1. Holts factory supplied DSC67 paint can be wildly different between each can.
2. We are only guessing when we try to come up with a mix to match up to the DSC67 can version
3. Two different people are able to create 2 different version of the KX/A45 mix
4. It appears the really nice version of the Holts DSC67 paint may have been mislabelled or the mix has changed.
5. The original Subaru No 15 Silver paint can be mixed consistently to look the same (doesn't seem to suffer from the same issues as the mixed KX/A45 paint mix)
So what am I going to do ?
I am going back to the No 15 mix
I am doing this because it is consistently able to be mixed to look the same, I have already painted part of the LH side of the roof (see photo below), I have already painted the grill below the windscreen the covers the wiper arms (see photo below) all in the No 15 colour. Most important, I already have a crap load of money invested in 1 litre of mixed No 15 so I need to use it.
With this photo above of the wiper arm cover I have used one of the sample paints I picked up trying to match up the colour and that is why it is so dark.
Feels better to have finally made a decision so see how I go from here.
The following photo shows the RH side of the roof with 3 shades of DSC67 on it. The first that is about 1/2 way up the driver widow is the original version I was going nuts over. It looks awesome though the photo doesn't do it justice. the darker patch towards the rear door is the version mixed yesterday using the KX/A45 paint recipe and the one in the middle is a factory supplied can from Holts coded DSC67.
Now I would have thought that the first can of Holts DCS67 which started everything would be the same as the middle colour which again is a factory Holts DSC67 but as you can see it isn't. I also would have thought the KX/A45 mixed at Autopro into a pressure can which is supposed to be a match for DSC67 would also match something but again it doesn't.
Today I went back to Autopro and had a small sample again made to the KX/A45 mix and tested it to any of the first 3 verstions of the DSC67 but it wasn't the same either.
So I have stopped and had a look at what I had achieved so far and certain things are obvious
1. Holts factory supplied DSC67 paint can be wildly different between each can.
2. We are only guessing when we try to come up with a mix to match up to the DSC67 can version
3. Two different people are able to create 2 different version of the KX/A45 mix
4. It appears the really nice version of the Holts DSC67 paint may have been mislabelled or the mix has changed.
5. The original Subaru No 15 Silver paint can be mixed consistently to look the same (doesn't seem to suffer from the same issues as the mixed KX/A45 paint mix)
So what am I going to do ?
I am going back to the No 15 mix
I am doing this because it is consistently able to be mixed to look the same, I have already painted part of the LH side of the roof (see photo below), I have already painted the grill below the windscreen the covers the wiper arms (see photo below) all in the No 15 colour. Most important, I already have a crap load of money invested in 1 litre of mixed No 15 so I need to use it.
With this photo above of the wiper arm cover I have used one of the sample paints I picked up trying to match up the colour and that is why it is so dark.
Feels better to have finally made a decision so see how I go from here.
Thanks Bennie
Took the car for its last drive after basic sanding of the roof and a wash.
Etch primer started going on this arvo, there are a couple of small areas of orange peel so when dried they will get a sand and refinish.
This project has been bigger than I ever expected but it was certainly a long time coming and very necessary.
I am mindful that preparation is everything with painting so there is a lot of double handing and re sanding to get imperfections out.
I have never dealt with metallic paint so fun is on its way.
I know I am doing this (the roof) the hard way but I feel if I can pull this off doing it this way the rest of the car will be a piece of cake.
Took the car for its last drive after basic sanding of the roof and a wash.
Etch primer started going on this arvo, there are a couple of small areas of orange peel so when dried they will get a sand and refinish.
This project has been bigger than I ever expected but it was certainly a long time coming and very necessary.
I am mindful that preparation is everything with painting so there is a lot of double handing and re sanding to get imperfections out.
I have never dealt with metallic paint so fun is on its way.
I know I am doing this (the roof) the hard way but I feel if I can pull this off doing it this way the rest of the car will be a piece of cake.
For anyone still following the whole fix holes/repaint the MY roof it is finished for now.
I have to get the car through rego for its 33rd year tomorrow and with the weather heading into cooler and wetter conditions now isn't really the best time to paint.
This and slowly loosing my cool on this project I need to stop and live with it for now.
Being able to actually drive the car for the first time in about 9 to 10 months will be different.
Following a some pics showing the roof and windscreen grill.
Both of these have been repainted in No 15 Subaru metallic silver.
I have spent upwards of 1.5K on this job so far which includes the purchase of a new MIG, new air compressor and spray gun.
This and 4L of mixed paint at $76 a litre (still have 2 x 1L tins unused), numerous tins of No 15 mixed into spray cans, cans of clear top coat, tins of primer, 8L of thinners, numerous tins of pre wash wax remover etc.
It all adds up very quickly but the end result is I taught myself to lay paint and I am informed metallic silver is the hardest to spray.
I also believe I have picked the hardest panel on a car to paint, the roof.
From all this I still have much work to do to hone my skills in body filling and avoiding paint moulding, overspray and the ideal mixture.
From the pics it can be seen that the No 15 of today is different to the colour of 1982 but short of getting a panel beater to colour match I will slowly paint the whole car in the new colour as time and money allow.
Also from the pics (the one from the rear of the car looking up to the garage) it can be seen some small ripples where my body filling should have been better.
What I can say with confidence is I have gained a lot of confidence in painting and feel much more able to paint the bonnet which will be the next job, possibly in then next 12 months.
What cant really be seen in the photos are the light "tiger stripes" in the paint.
The first 2 coats went on very well.
What I didn't do was lightly sand between each coat (except the last coat).
I feel this would have avoided the moulding and over spray issue and given a consistent finish.
I will test this theory out when I do the bonnet.
Now to get through rego tomorrow.
Roof painted 1
Roof painted 2 with ripples.
Windscreen grill
I have to get the car through rego for its 33rd year tomorrow and with the weather heading into cooler and wetter conditions now isn't really the best time to paint.
This and slowly loosing my cool on this project I need to stop and live with it for now.
Being able to actually drive the car for the first time in about 9 to 10 months will be different.
Following a some pics showing the roof and windscreen grill.
Both of these have been repainted in No 15 Subaru metallic silver.
I have spent upwards of 1.5K on this job so far which includes the purchase of a new MIG, new air compressor and spray gun.
This and 4L of mixed paint at $76 a litre (still have 2 x 1L tins unused), numerous tins of No 15 mixed into spray cans, cans of clear top coat, tins of primer, 8L of thinners, numerous tins of pre wash wax remover etc.
It all adds up very quickly but the end result is I taught myself to lay paint and I am informed metallic silver is the hardest to spray.
I also believe I have picked the hardest panel on a car to paint, the roof.
From all this I still have much work to do to hone my skills in body filling and avoiding paint moulding, overspray and the ideal mixture.
From the pics it can be seen that the No 15 of today is different to the colour of 1982 but short of getting a panel beater to colour match I will slowly paint the whole car in the new colour as time and money allow.
Also from the pics (the one from the rear of the car looking up to the garage) it can be seen some small ripples where my body filling should have been better.
What I can say with confidence is I have gained a lot of confidence in painting and feel much more able to paint the bonnet which will be the next job, possibly in then next 12 months.
What cant really be seen in the photos are the light "tiger stripes" in the paint.
The first 2 coats went on very well.
What I didn't do was lightly sand between each coat (except the last coat).
I feel this would have avoided the moulding and over spray issue and given a consistent finish.
I will test this theory out when I do the bonnet.
Now to get through rego tomorrow.
Roof painted 1
Roof painted 2 with ripples.
Windscreen grill
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Silverbullet
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2867
- Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:20 pm
- Location: Adelaide
Looks like you've done a fine job on the roof and cowl panel from here!
Just looking at that bonnet shot, I can see what you mean about the color difference...but! to me that looks like the difference between the bonnet and cowl is just due to the faded nature of the silver paint after 33 years on the road and in the sun. Or it could even just be the original clear coat is faded, or non-existent like it was on my car. I bet if you removed one of the quarter windows or front/rear windscreen you would see the protected original paint underneath more closely matches what your new paint looks like. And if you plan to re-paint the whole car anyway the mis-match is not such a big deal in the end.
Plus, the way I looked at it when purchasing big items like welder, compressor, spray gun etc was they were big one off costs that added to the cost of the project sure, but you never have to spend that money again the next time round because you already have the gear and you don't have to pay anyone to do the job.
Just looking at that bonnet shot, I can see what you mean about the color difference...but! to me that looks like the difference between the bonnet and cowl is just due to the faded nature of the silver paint after 33 years on the road and in the sun. Or it could even just be the original clear coat is faded, or non-existent like it was on my car. I bet if you removed one of the quarter windows or front/rear windscreen you would see the protected original paint underneath more closely matches what your new paint looks like. And if you plan to re-paint the whole car anyway the mis-match is not such a big deal in the end.
Plus, the way I looked at it when purchasing big items like welder, compressor, spray gun etc was they were big one off costs that added to the cost of the project sure, but you never have to spend that money again the next time round because you already have the gear and you don't have to pay anyone to do the job.
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
Thanks for the feedback guys.
I realise people can be their own worst critics but that suits me.
I am thinking of buying another spray gun with a hose connected remote paint pot.
while I was standing on each side of the car on planks supported on milk crates to get the same height off the ground and to be able to reach the centre line of the roof, I did notice with a HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure) spray gun with a 600ml pot it did get heavy and my technique was not consistent at times.
With a remote pot I feel the lighter weight difference would be of benefit.
I was continually checking my consistency with distance off the roof and making sure I didn't arc the spray pattern. There still may have been some of this incorrect technique sneaking in from time to time though.
I still think the key here is to lightly sand each base coat (excepting the final base coat) and I would have ended up with a finish I would have been more happy with.
I don't seem to have had any issues with the clear coat so I am happy with my methods here.
The paint has only been on the car a week or so, so I am in no hurry to buff anything.
I mightn't even do it for a few more weeks yet depending on my interest.
I realise people can be their own worst critics but that suits me.
I am thinking of buying another spray gun with a hose connected remote paint pot.
while I was standing on each side of the car on planks supported on milk crates to get the same height off the ground and to be able to reach the centre line of the roof, I did notice with a HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure) spray gun with a 600ml pot it did get heavy and my technique was not consistent at times.
With a remote pot I feel the lighter weight difference would be of benefit.
I was continually checking my consistency with distance off the roof and making sure I didn't arc the spray pattern. There still may have been some of this incorrect technique sneaking in from time to time though.
I still think the key here is to lightly sand each base coat (excepting the final base coat) and I would have ended up with a finish I would have been more happy with.
I don't seem to have had any issues with the clear coat so I am happy with my methods here.
The paint has only been on the car a week or so, so I am in no hurry to buff anything.
I mightn't even do it for a few more weeks yet depending on my interest.
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Suby Spanner
- Junior Member
- Posts: 108
- Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2015 9:02 pm
- Location: Adelaide, Australia
I'll chuck in my 2 cents:
You've done a top job. The time frame sucks, but cars are like that.
Rust is a PITA. Welding the holes was the only real option. I once had a huge hole (from kids doing wheelies with a blown tyre) in a rear 1/4 to fill. I welded a plate on the inside of the hole, then welded over the plate, ground back, put a layer of body filler on. Almost 10 years on that repair has stood the test of time.
As for paint: All I can say is the quality of paintwork/body work from prefessional crash shops is often disgusting. Sanding marks, runs, poorly matched colours etc. Metalic paints are vitually impossible to match as everything effects the end result: temperature of the day, humidity, batch number, thinners, even ambient light (so I'm told) can effect the way it looks in the end.
Often with metallic paints "near enough, is good enough". I don't like that idea, but that's the truth.
Like I say you've done a top job.
You've done a top job. The time frame sucks, but cars are like that.
Rust is a PITA. Welding the holes was the only real option. I once had a huge hole (from kids doing wheelies with a blown tyre) in a rear 1/4 to fill. I welded a plate on the inside of the hole, then welded over the plate, ground back, put a layer of body filler on. Almost 10 years on that repair has stood the test of time.
As for paint: All I can say is the quality of paintwork/body work from prefessional crash shops is often disgusting. Sanding marks, runs, poorly matched colours etc. Metalic paints are vitually impossible to match as everything effects the end result: temperature of the day, humidity, batch number, thinners, even ambient light (so I'm told) can effect the way it looks in the end.
Often with metallic paints "near enough, is good enough". I don't like that idea, but that's the truth.
Like I say you've done a top job.