Slap me down if this is a silly Idea

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Thu Feb 25, 2010 3:00 pm

why would that make noise?

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Feb 25, 2010 3:31 pm

the top of the strut in the red square is leaning against the body I'm sure every time the suspension moved it would bash the body

TOONGA

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:26 pm

TOONGA wrote:

the top of the strut in the red square is leaning against the body I'm sure every time the suspension moved it would bash the body

TOONGA

My first impression doesnt look strong there, where is it off from?
Cheers
AP

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:35 pm

this is where that photo comes from and no I don't think it is very strong or safe especially for a six inch kit

http://www.subarubrat.com/hasseylift.htm

TOONGA

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Feb 28, 2010 8:02 pm

I don't think that strut top would make noise or rattle against the strut tower, unless there's something structurally wrong with the strut tower - or that strut block!

Cheers

Bennie

chrisdunbar · Post by **chrisdunbar** » Wed May 26, 2010 11:59 pm

Looking at the front on photo of the subi, it's pretty obviously got positive camber on the fronts ie they lean out, which will wear the outside of the tyre. This positive camber is brought about by the height of the vehicle. Put a ton on the front axle and the front will drop, and as the lower control arms move back closer to horizontal, as the manufacturer had intended, the bottom of the struts will be moved outwards, returning to neutral, and then negative camber.
Perhaps the easiest fix is to add some length to the lower control arm, between where the radius rod bolts on and the ball joint. But not too much as this will also require more length in your drive shaft, and while there is some stretch built into the shafts, a bit too much and I'm sure you'll pop a CV apart. There are so many perils (physical and legal) in this modification, you'd be wise to only use it off-road. That little bit of steel welded in is required to transmit the bulk of the accelerating, cornering and braking forces generated in throwing the car around.

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am

G'day Julian. I went thru all of this a while back and I have a three inch lift. Tried to rectify the positive camber issue by using the L series front setup but that's not all its cracked up to be. You will get your negative camber with the L front gear but it brings your wheel forward and alters your track size. After I installed the L gear, I had a wheel alignment at a front end specialist and they slotted one of the strut towers just to get it right. Sat on the road beautifully. You will only get a slight bit of adjustment there anyway, but can I ask what brakes do you have there. A lot of my problem was running the L series hubs and brakes on MY control arms. The hub angle is different. I went back to complete brumby setup and I'm fairly happy with it now. I sat down and went thru the whole geometry thing and it was driving me nuts.