Help please-wheel bearing replacement, rear,L series

BillycanMitch · Post by **BillycanMitch** » Sat Jul 31, 2010 8:07 pm

L series Rear wheel bearing replacement

Gday,

I have come to the conclusion that my RH rear wheel bearing needs replacement. I have managed to follow the workshop manual so far.

I have the trailing arm off and secure in the vice. The bit i am stuck on is removing the 'hub ring nut'.
The manual says that there is a special tool for this called a 'Hub ring nut tool'.
does anyone know where I can get one?
are they expensive?
Is there any suitable substitute? (i have tried a big screw driver and hammer)
Are these tools generic for all subarus?

Any help is very much appreciated.

Cheers!
Mitch

BillycanMitch · Post by **BillycanMitch** » Sat Jul 31, 2010 8:40 pm

After a bit more research on this site I have found the name of the tool required...

this is what i found in a previous post.
"Instal ring nut to housing by using a torque wrench and Subaru Socket number 925550000. Tightening torque is 172 - 221 NM (17.5 - 22.5 kg-m)."

now to find that tool

Mitch

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Sat Jul 31, 2010 11:05 pm

Another way to remove the bearing is to put it in a vice and put one of the bearings back into the outer and bash it with BFH. As you replace it anyway so it doesn't matter if you stuff up the bearing or the outer. You can even insert the shaft in the wrong way and use a Brass hammer to belt it out.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 1:11 am

Matt are you confused? surely the lock ring is threaded and needs to be reused?

BillycanMitch · Post by **BillycanMitch** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 8:36 am

Matt are you confused? surely the lock ring is threaded and needs to be reused?

Yes, the ring nut is threaded and needs to be reused.

Another way to remove the bearing is to put it in a vice and put one of the bearings back into the outer and bash it with BFH. As you replace it anyway so it doesn't matter if you stuff up the bearing or the outer. You can even insert the shaft in the wrong way and use a Brass hammer to belt it out.

Matt, your method works well on the front wheel bearings.
On the rear, the ring nut locks the drive shaft in place in the trailing arm unlike the the front where the drive shaft forms part of the axle shaft.

Cheers!
Mitch

BillycanMitch · Post by **BillycanMitch** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 9:09 am

Exploded view from Gregory's Workshop manual. p.201

Trailing arm in the vice. The ring nut can be seen. it is the bit around the drive shaft with four notches.

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:17 am

Sorry all, I read it wrong, my bad...

Have you tried bashing it inwards slightly, instead of around, to break away some of the rust, dirt, etc?
Also any WD40 or similar?
And maybe a little bit of heat to?

Point · Post by **Point** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:34 pm

you could make a tool as El_Freddo has done

http://www.ausubaru.com.au/showthread.p ... ing&page=4

BillycanMitch · Post by **BillycanMitch** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 2:19 pm

Yeah I have seen the tool that Elfreddo made. It is exactly what i need but i dont have the fabrications tools required ( welder, grinder or materials).

I will try the punch and BFH method. I have read that a few have done it like this and have all but destroyed the ring nut. i would rather not wreck it but il do what i have to.

Cheers!
Mitch

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 2:39 pm

most people will concentrate all of the force to undo a ring nut on one point of the nut to "lessen" the damage to the rest of the nut.

Ive found that hitting as many points of the nut as possible help loosen it up and using a square ended drift stop the nut from being damaged beyond repair

my tool has gone missing not sure what happened to it

TOONGA

T'subaru · Post by **T'subaru** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 2:48 pm

http://www.shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=1156

I havnt seviced any rears yet but heres a link to the pin wrench socket that may help you source one from a local tool supplier if not subaru.
Cheers

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 6:49 pm

The one that T'subaru shows is the correct tool. I made one from a piece of pipe that sat over the lock nut. Then I notched out the end to fit and welded an old castle nut to the other. Worked OK and if refined could probably be a goer. Also the pipe configuration helps because you can do it on the car and it fits over the half axle. The soft outer casing lip gets hammered into the notch of the locking ring to lock it there after it is reinstalled. .

BillycanMitch · Post by **BillycanMitch** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 7:03 pm

Thanks Guys,

I have now got the ring nut off! I used a combo of methods.
First i used a large drift to get it moving. then i used a folded steel bracket that i had laying around. I filed it down to size and griped it with 450mm shifter.

in action
ok... this shot is posed but hopefully it gives an idea of what was done.

now, to get the outer cones and spacer out.

Cheers!
Mitch

PatttoPatterson · Post by **PatttoPatterson** » Fri Apr 26, 2013 12:13 pm

bit of an old thread, but i am currently deciding how I'm going to go about fixing a rear wheel bearing, I had a front wheel bearing go in the Brumby i used to get about in and replaced the whole front hub with a second hand one from a wrecker, It seems like a lot less fuss is involved in replacing the whole hub than just the bearing and from my brief lookings into it its cheaper to.
is there anything I'm missing here?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Apr 26, 2013 1:41 pm

agree, did same, $50 rear hub on Brumby instead of hard work and quoted $175 trade for the bearings. Just note if you run a rear sway bar you will need to get same,get rid of sway bar or fix it some other way