Brumby lowering help please

ausbrumby · Post by **ausbrumby** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 5:20 pm

Hi, I am wondering If anyone would be willing to give me a step by step procedure to lower the rear end of my brumby using the torsion, your help will be muchly appreciated
Cheers, Kieran

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 6:14 pm

the only way a brumby should go is up

just my 2 cents, im sure some one will be able to help you cheers

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 6:22 pm

Sorry if I missunderstand your request but to lower a brumby/MY via the torsion bar you lift up the lower part of the rear seat (the bit you sit on in the wagon anyway) by undoing and removing the 2 bolts holding the seat part in place and after the seat part is lifted up remove the rubber plug in the floor and using a socket (17mm or 19mm ?) turn the bolt you can see down in hole situated above the differential clockwise to lift the rear up or anti clockwise to lower the tension and the rear ride height.
In the Brumby I am guessing there is a plug in the tray (?) and if this fails get under the car and look up under the diff where you will see the bolt I am speaking of.

Post by **TOONGA** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 6:59 pm

The only way to do it from the tray is to drill / cut a hole in the tray bed.

showthread.php?t=15851&page=55

or get under it and do it from under the car.

TOONGA

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 7:20 pm

TOONGA wrote: or get under it and do it from under the car.
TOONGA

Which is very doible.

Green_eyed_liberty · Post by **Green_eyed_liberty** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 8:28 pm

Brumby Kid wrote:Which is very doible.

19mm socket on a ratchet spanner and go nuts, will he need to remove the rear struts?

LT65 · Post by **LT65** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 8:36 pm

If the torsion bar centre adjustment doesn't give you enough you can always rotate the torsion bars by a spline this will give you either 70mm or 25mm depending on if you rotate on the outer or inner spline. Explained in Gregory's manual. Download a copy and have a read. I did my Brumby got the result I was after.

Tozzy · Post by **Tozzy** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 8:57 pm

You don't need to drill holes in the floor pan to un-do the torsion bar. Just climb under the ute and unscrew it. It's a 19mm bolt. Put the ute on ramps.

Be aware though this doesn't lower the ute but relaxes the tension on the torsion bar. Makes like a softer ride and when you put something in the back it sags in the arse. Not a good look.........

I gather you want to lower it with fatty tires and a "Dumph, Dumph" sound system??????

The front should be a drama. You may just need cut down coil springs. DOn't cut them down yourself though as it will be illegal. Go see a Pedders store.

Point · Post by **Point** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 10:36 pm

you will probably have to cut down or remove the rear bump stops if lowering. I tried to make mine level and the back end bounced badly on big bumps.

It will make it easier to turn the torsion bar adjusting bolt if you take the weight off the wheels first.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 10:50 pm

Green_eyed_liberty wrote:19mm socket on a ratchet spanner and go nuts, will he need to remove the rear struts?

No need to remove the rear "struts" - they're only shock absorbers which should really be called dampeners as they stop the bounce that springs/spring devices produce.

Point wrote:you will probably have to cut down or remove the rear bump stops if lowering. I tried to make mine level and the back end bounced badly on big bumps.

It will make it easier to turn the torsion bar adjusting bolt if you take the weight off the wheels first.

Do not ever cut springs - no pro shop should do that, they should be installing new springs that are specifically designed to lower your vehicle.

If you're rear end is bouncing all over the place after you lower it, or if it's doing it any time it means you probably need new rear dampeners (see above).

Also some WD40 and a long bar will make the work easier, not that it will be easy!

Cheers

Bennie

niterida · Post by **niterida** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:18 am

El_Freddo wrote:which should really be called DAMPERS

Sorry Bennie - one of my pet hates !!

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 7:54 am

Factory spec of rear bump stop to body is just a tiny 20mm. Most states rules for rego allow a one third reduction.

I think I agree with the notion the bolt head trick (clock or anti clock turning) to change height of rear really only adjusts the tension and ride feel, as I went for an intial inspection where the inspector told me the ute had to be raised to give the ADR 100mm clearance, then almost whispered that I should make an effort but he wasn't gonna hold me to the 100mm. He was full of it, was not going to show me the specs he was going on about as he was unable to get his data from the computer ( I know the authority he acted for only had crap old paper copy records) would not accept my other state data on paper, would not enter in the fact his own Falcon ute did not have 100mm bump stop clearance, left me with a two week wait inspection option or go elsewhere and pay/start again.

So, watching the Hitlers of inspectors if you try to lower the Brumby. Actually, research the idea of lowering by the splines ends of the torsion bar at the hub end.

Have since developed a business to seriously compete with the old Hitler and have quitened his business down with good old fashioned courteous service

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 9:22 am

niterida wrote:Sorry Bennie - one of my pet hates !!

Yeah I couldn't really remember which one it was, I was tired and it was late. Glad someone sorted it out.

Shock absorbers are my pet hate - the spring/airbag/torsion bar is the shock absorber! Bad marketing!

Cheers

Bennie