L front brakes in MY thing again ..... Matt !!

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 7:58 am

OK.Thanks for the extra input.

The inner hub seal of the L Series 4WD has a larger OD than that of the MY 4WD front hub so can't use MY inner hub seal unless a spacer ring made to fit in the L hub.

The MY 4WD hub inner seal ID is less than the L inner hub seal ID, so if to use L inner hub seal on MY CV taper, just might, might not seal.
The seal of above dimensions 97805 ? are what theoretically looks like is needed. Kelpro # , having trouble at first stop to snare one to play with when they used Kelpro number to cross reference to another brand. Loks like Kelpro provide the catalogues and numbering and another brand gets the sale - bit like RYCO numbers and cheaper brand sales!

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 3:14 pm

Found a listing for a seal with correct measures, still don't know if it fits the cone of the CV though.

Bearing Wholesalers is the supplier to retail level and part no 461700 is 52,76,8.5 exactly what I think is wanted.

It's a shame Tweety's Tony does not have an EA81 Subaru coz he is bloody quick at getting into projects seeded in his head and get nutted out, Rvmax Carl is another contender for finger stayin' out. At my rate no one will know what an MY is by the time I get it done !

Morrie · Post by **Morrie** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 4:07 pm

I don't think you should worry too much about the seals on the hubs, the wheel bearings are sealed bearings, the bearings should be proteced from the elements.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 4:16 pm

is it , caveat emptor ?? believing 2+2 sometimes = 5 ??

Let's nip this in the bud.

Pics would speak a thousand words but the artistic genius is not present in me today, if ever.

I tried above, see the dark shadow above that looks half the size, it is really same size, look on high side of shot as if from above, see the difference in the slope ?? One in foreground is MY FWD SEDAN 3'84 , dirty one is L 4WD sedan 9'85

One L hub sitting on the wall (metal cabinet all nice and square)
right next to it an MY hub.
both sat on the ball joint face,
both same gender
line of sight across the faces of the tops ( strut entry)
one eyed
definite angle dangle change between the two
gets out me SmartLevel, set to %
one is ~17.4%,
the other
~21.7%

must be absolute good luck on those that have got away with it and Trev and Phiz can rest assured there is something in it !

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 4:38 pm

Morrie wrote:I don't think you should worry too much about the seals on the hubs, the wheel bearings are sealed bearings, the bearings should be proteced from the elements.

depends on what you have got, I'v never had sealed front bearings on a sube and have had mud and snow get in both front hubs and ruin the bearings in no time - suspect seals not sealing against the cone of the CV
I know a much respected and ageing mechanic who installed what he thought were sealed bearings in the rear of an MY wagon, they carked it pretty quick, needing replacements with grease

. He coughed up for the repair bill without any hesitation once proved wrong.

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 8:13 pm

Thanks Steptoe...photo shows the story..but the measurements indicate the difference. I couldn't get it to work and now I see why. T.

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 8:31 pm

that pretty much sums it all up.
long shot at full zoom would have bought the apect ratio close so the two objects appear closer.

Morrie · Post by **Morrie** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:06 pm

Is the top surface you are talking aboutin the photo just the shape of the hub? have you actualy fitted each one to a strut and then measured the angle?

nncoolg · Post by **nncoolg** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:13 pm

I'm gonna go out on a limp here and say the the angle of the strut mount would be less important than the position of the ball joint. Remember you aren't changing the position of the strut in the tower, so if the ball joint is in the same spot on the L knuckle, I think it would be the same, it can't put an angle on a strut that it can't move. I would try and put a straight edge through the bearing housing and compare the positions and angles of the strut mount and ball joint. But yeah, I'm not the smartest guy out there either...

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 7:58 am

Anyone want a pristine Pentax ProgramA film camera and lenses - I'm sure I could have manually sorted the apertures and exposures with it to get results but then wher do i buy film and where can it be developed, how much

The old digital camera just needs to be learnt to be mastered properly.

Well, Trev feels better.
I shoved a pipe down the top hole (strut mounting) and it hits the hub noticeably differently between the two. Not fitted up to veehickle like others have.That degree of difference is just in the readout off the top surface of casting

MY strut has just two mount to body bolts and must allow it to swing out to take up the difference - so it fits for starters - enough to satisfy an engineer

To suck it and see needs both sides done, hub nuts, grease up hubs, brakes bled .....

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 9:23 am

steptoe wrote:It's a shame Tweety's Tony does not have an EA81 Subaru coz he is bloody quick at getting into projects seeded in his head and get nutted out

We need to get in his ear about getting a brumby

He's got a bloody jum*uck for crying out loud! (Sorry Tony, couldn't resist!)

Morrie wrote:I don't think you should worry too much about the seals on the hubs, the wheel bearings are sealed bearings, the bearings should be proteced from the elements.

There's nothing better than factory sealing IMO. While the bearings are "sealed", that seal is not great with water and dust. Plus you need to remove it to grease the bearings properly, apparently it's optional to put the full amount of grease in there before purchase these days

steptoe wrote:One L hub sitting on the wall (metal cabinet all nice and square)
right next to it an MY hub.
both sat on the ball joint face,
both same gender
line of sight across the faces of the tops ( strut entry)
one eyed
definite angle dangle change between the two

The question is, what does the angle of the axle look like between the two? I think you need to compare this the other way around - sit them on the strut mounts and compare the angle of the axle in the hubs and the position of the ball joints

revmax wrote:that pretty much sums it all up.
long shot at full zoom would have bought the apect ratio close so the two objects appear closer.

Also if you've got aperture control set it to something like f20 (trying to remember the smallest available, could be lens related too) - this will change the depth of field to "infinity" or close enough so that everything in the shot is in focus. You will need bright lighting conditions or a tripod to eliminate camera shake

nncoolg wrote:I would try and put a straight edge through the bearing housing and compare the positions and angles of the strut mount and ball joint. But yeah, I'm not the smartest guy out there either...

I'd be doing this too - on top of what I mentioned above, these two tricks should show all the differences between the hubs. I wonder if there's a difference between the S1 and S2 L series hubs or if there's a difference between 2wd and 4wd front hubs. I can't see there being one but you never know - or that strut top, spin it around for 2wd rather than the 4wd way on the MYs, this could move the strut enough to compensate - but you'd have to play around with this. The other way to go is to go with custom strut top adjusters

steptoe wrote:To suck it and see needs both sides done, hub nuts, grease up hubs, brakes bled .....

don't need brakes bled - just put the hubs back together with the drive shaft (or just a drive shaft outer axle bit), roll the car forward and back a few times to let the wheels work out to where they would be normally then check it out. If it works then put all the other gear in and bleed the brakes. If not you've not put all that time and effort into the brakes etc for nothing.

What's the difference in the caliper mounting points between the hubs? L series calipers don't fit or aren't out far enough for the L disc to fit on? If you can mount the L caliper to the hub knuckle and the L disc to the hub I don't see why you would need to change the hub knuckle assembly to the L series set.

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 1:05 pm

centre to centre of caliper mounting holes to hub are at least 10 mm further apart on MY than L and the desire was L calipers and L larger discs. . Surely the angle change at the top of the hub dictates the rest of the project, the ball joint will just swivel to suit, the CV shafts inner DOJ will just slide out a tad to compensate .....surel;y?/