Stabilser Bar-Realignment

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:18 pm

Hi guys

Quick question...I am in the middle of the Brumby/L series lower control arm conversion. I am probably doing it a bit different but have used the XD ford radius rods.

The Stabiliser bar does not quite line up with the radius rods to reattach...

I bet the stabilser bar is spring steel, Can it be heated and realigned or some other trick??? I have access to some blacksmiths..should I talk to them??

Rob_D · Post by **Rob_D** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:32 pm

subybrumby wrote:Hi guys
I bet the stabilser bar is spring steel, Can it be heated and realigned or some other trick??? I have access to some blacksmiths..should I talk to them??

Only if you want to weaken it.

If its spring steel it will have been heat treated for the correct characteristics. If you heat it hot enough to re-align it or take it to a blacksmith then that will ruin the heat treatment.

Rob

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:40 pm

And if I force it, I guess it will snap??

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 5:33 pm

I probably should have referred to this as the sway bar on the front of a brumby...So It can't be reshaped???anyone?? ideas??

Just needs to come in about an inch on each end to meet the new radius rods..? otherwise I'll need a plan B

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 7:25 pm

I'm not sure on re-shaping it, and I haven't done this conversion myself....but I think you may have to start looking for an alternative sway bar to use, perhaps from a different model of car. An L series one might be nearer to the size you need.
Otherwise you could consider not running a front sway bar at all. I know a few people who do this. Naturally your road handling characteristics will be downgraded but this is an advantage for offroading as it gives you more wheel travel.

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 7:33 pm

im curious to see pics of ur setup now..

but sorry i cant help with the swaybar prolbem.

maybe try an L series one.

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 8:28 pm

I'll look into the L series setup...I'll put up a couple of pics tomorrow on how I have located the new falcon rods....

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Fri Feb 08, 2008 7:11 am

In the past people used to redrill the rod or the arm when doing larger radius rods on the cheap . In Rally apps they tend to bend/break most likely because Ford made them to a price ...

If serious SWR can have them made from 60T rated steel and then they survive almost anything .

As for the anti roll bar , they need to be altered by people who make them for a living . If in Sydney and get stuck let me know and I'll see what I can do .

Cheers A .

ToyRX · Post by **ToyRX** » Fri Feb 08, 2008 10:42 am

I don't know if this is also the case on the Brumby but for the L series due to the inherent understeer the cars have when pushed hard it is not uncommon to remove the front stabiliser bar for competition use, particuarly tarseal. So depending on your end use leaving the bar off altogether may be an option?

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Fri Feb 08, 2008 1:44 pm

I'd probably leave it off but you can certainly notice the difference.
Just cold bend it that inch yourself. It'll bend pretty easy and don't worry, it won't break.

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:29 pm

Thanks for all this, I'll try and give it a bend and see what happens..I appreciate the help and advice guys....its only gotta come a little bit

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:29 am

Bend it without heat, you will get it on there, trust me i did mine the same way.

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:50 pm

If its only a small amount it has to be bent then as suggested cold bending will be fine or if you are using it offroad then you could consider leaving it off, just remember you will have to slow down a bit around corners. You could Adapt an L series sway bar but you will have to make mounts and weld or bolt them to the MY crossmember.

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 4:48 pm

Thanks for all that...I'll go for the cold bend..its only got to move about a thickness of the bar...

I said I would post some photos...they're not that flash...

I am just waiting for my new tierod ends on order...

new falcon radius rods..using same holes and bolts..tried to make it neat
[ATTACH]721[/ATTACH]

Wheels now straight..stick out a bit with L series arm..bit of neg camber if anything
[ATTACH]722[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]723[/ATTACH]

Point · Post by **Point** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:24 pm

side view?
how far does it move the wheel forward?

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 10:01 pm

Considerably, I'll post specs tomorrow and further pics for you, Point.

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 5:09 pm

For "Point". Here are comparison photos regarding wheel forward. note the change in inclination of strut. brumby with mag wheel has had fender chop.

L series modification
[ATTACH]724[/ATTACH]
Standard brumby
[ATTACH]725[/ATTACH]

Point · Post by **Point** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:02 pm

nice...that is a fair bit. a bit of castor never goes astray

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:25 pm

hey...i like that fender chop.

can also see how much the strut is bent aswell.

bit of extra strut top pressure never hurt anyone

that wuld be the way to go to fit some nice 30 inchers or something. (along with a 6 stud conversion

)

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:06 pm

Will get more detail tomorrow..windy and rainy here in Toowoomba at the moment..staying inside..