The Dreaded Captive Nuts

Post by **Alex** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 7:35 pm

Matatak wrote:i got an idea....

get an MY

stop whoring.

alex

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 7:44 pm

I'm looking at connecting the raduis rod plate lift blocks to engine x member blocks,creating a mini sub frame for the front ,probably connect both sides to each other at the radius points.I think one other member has done something similar on his wagon.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:43 am

That is a very good idea, solong as it doesnt get in the way of the radius rod. I was thinking of bolting a brace to the actual engine crossmember but I suppose just welding to the engine crossmember lift blocks would be good, so the "subframe" you've created is still removable. I will experiment with some bits of metal tomorrow night and maybe post some pics if I come across an interesting configuration...

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:13 am

stamp_licker wrote:I'm looking at connecting the raduis rod plate lift blocks to engine x member blocks,creating a mini sub frame for the front ,probably connect both sides to each other at the radius points.I think one other member has done something similar on his wagon.

This is was i was suggesting in an above thread, just worded differently and with a little more knowledge behind it, as stated below:

El_Freddo wrote:I've thought about this with the front and rear assemblies being a one or two piece lift block (more like linked blocks). I don't know the logistics of this as i'm yet to get a lift kit in.

Bennie

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 11:13 am

pictures say a thousand words

Xtreme_RX · Post by **Xtreme_RX** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 11:55 am

I will try to get some pictures of my 'Xtreme Kit' on the week end......
+ Some photos of the Exhaust 'Up' pipe.....

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 5:58 pm

http://www.subarubrat.com/PICS/frontl6.JPG & http://www.subarubrat.com/PICS/frontlift3s.JPGthis ones done on a brumby/brat bigger lift etc but give you a idea of how to connect the blocks .Easy mod to work on a L series.
I'm going to muck around with it on the weekend and post pics.
Maybe start a different thread for these mods and leave this one for the fix of captive nuts.

BrennyV · Post by **BrennyV** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 6:15 pm

stamp_licker wrote:http://www.subarubrat.com/PICS/frontl6.JPG & http://www.subarubrat.com/PICS/frontlift3s.JPGthis ones done on a brumby/brat bigger lift etc but give you a idea of how to connect the blocks .Easy mod to work on a L series.
I'm going to muck around with it on the weekend and post pics.
Maybe start a different thread for these mods and leave this one for the fix of captive nuts.

now thats the ticket!

Post by **Alex** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 7:34 pm

BASHEZUZ!!

alex

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:35 pm

Subafury wrote: found a couple other threads with the same problem- looks like you have spent a lot of effort in repairing these hey Smokey?
see here http://www.ausubaru.com.au/showthread.p ... uts+ripped
and also i see the same problem can happen in the rear!!
http://www.ausubaru.com.au/showthread.p ... uts+ripped
also smokey would u mind puttin a couple pix up- the old links dont work.

Yeah the back was very easy to fix as Fredsub mentioned in one of those posts. Who ever installed the lift forgot to replace the brackets back onto the rear bar that the trailing arms connect to. So it flexed and riped a captive nut out of the floor. Just welded a plate up there and recaptured the nut.

The front i welded myself after getting quotes of $700 per side to fix... But they were not strong enough and brake again. I gave up & bought a new body.

What pics are you after Subafury? There are so many that are gone now. I have the originals but don't know what ones I had posted.

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:42 pm

Stamplicker, That is fantastic, especially as those two lift blocks that are located at the radius rod are the load bearing ones, the GBox Xmember one doesn't have much strength. Very nice indeed.

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:23 pm

i was just after a couple on how you solved the problem at the front end, not
so much any more but for the thread.

i got mine mig welded up today. see finished pics. i hope they will be alright because the repairman said he never wants to see me again (bitch of a job coz of the thin chassis rails). although i had to brake harshly on the drive home during which i heard a clunk. like a bolt boppin up n down :s. although i should say i didnt need to recapture a new nut for the gbox x member one as iit already had an extra nut on top of it(stripped captive nut) since the beginning of liftkit.
see pix below
theres some blurry before shots where i had just stick welded the plates on.

tuff welds - i hope

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:27 pm

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:36 pm

only way to tell if its strong enough is some offroading.

im up once i get one more thign done on my wagon (u no who u are and wt needs doin

)

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:51 pm

*hides*

Dave

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 11:33 pm

even with your initial arc welding its bound to be stronger than standard, I was seriously shocked when I saw how the captive nuts are installed by the factory!

Post by **Alex** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 2:45 pm

i dont think mine will be breaking anytime soon. Looks very similar to yours Matt. Ive bashed that side of the car around a fair bit to test it, and there are no noises, or signs of breaking.

Just remember, if all else fails, use cable ties!

alex

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:51 pm

Alex wrote:Just remember, if all else fails, use cable ties!

Or gaffa tape... Its what holds the world together

bennie

daza · Post by **daza** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 7:28 pm

My Lift came out of a second hand wagon, so i'm not sure what brand it is.
It has the three "blocks" at the radius rod plate welded to the plate and uses the origanal bolts.

The MY's don't have as much of a problem as the L's, but not because we're gentlier with them.

Daza.

Post by **Captain Obvious** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 8:54 pm

ive seen alot of them like daza's i think this is the better way to go.