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Hi
I have a gen1 lib wagon with 2 in lift kit and o/back suspension,my rear camber cannot be adjusted correctly bcoz of the lift.
Is there a way to get more camber so that i don't chew out the outside of my tyres?
Thanx
Chris

On these two bolts on the strut that is attached to hub, one of these bolts is adjustable, from memory its on the top bolt that can be turned around. (need to undo the nut then turn the bolt)

Wheel Alignment place should know that kind of thing!
Cheers
AP

Don't know the series two, but the series one had no camber adjustment in the back.
There's plenty of aftermarket camber kits/bolts availible though.
Daza.

My early Gen II is the same, no adjustment at the rear. Another item on my long shopping list.

You can grab a set of adjustable camber bolts like Daza said (they'll be about $50-70) or if you're feeling rich some adjustable lower control arms. The adjustable arms make camber and toe adjustable but probably overkill on a lifted street car imo.

Whiteline has the bolts here

Thanx for the help,are those whiteline adjusters for front or rear?

I sell them too, Nolathane brand ones -> yes they will fit the rear.
I have done lots of rear camber bolts on Gen 1 & 2 Libertys..

I'm also looking at some after market camber bolts for my lifted Lib
it seems I can't get enough adjustment out of the genuine ones
but well the after market ones help with this.

Can you tell me what is "camber" is out? - Just want to clear up as I might be confused something else!
Cheers
AP

00outback wrote:I'm also looking at some after market camber bolts for my lifted Lib
it seems I can't get enough adjustment out of the genuine ones
but will the after market ones help with this.

Is that for the front Steve? Whiteline do an aftermarket one (replaces the lower bolt) but it's listed as RACE in their catalouge so it might not be road legal. If I can't dial enough camber out of mine with the factory bolt (outback struts & raised kings) I'll be the same boat, so it'd be interesting to find out what the go is.

With the rear it depends on how much adjustment is needed, cheapest option (the bolts) should give up +/- 1.5 degrees as whiteline claim. I haven't had an alignment on mine yet but hoping the 1.5 degrees will be enough to bring things back to neutral. In a perfect world a touch of negative camber would be nice too, but the adjustable lower control arms are about all that will do it and they're too expensive (in my opinion).

AlpineRaven wrote:Can you tell me what is "camber" is out? - Just want to clear up as I might be confused something else!
Cheers
AP

Front and rear will be out with a lift. I'm no suspension guru but increasing the length of the strut, be it with the outback gear, adding lift blocks or both pulls out a bit of negative camber.

I want that negative camber back.

__JC__ wrote:Is that for the front Steve? Whiteline do an aftermarket one (replaces the lower bolt) but it's listed as RACE in their catalouge so it might not be road legal. If I can't dial enough camber out of mine with the factory bolt (outback struts & raised kings) I'll be the same boat, so it'd be interesting to find out what the go is.

Hi _JC_ I'm after camber bolts for both front and rear more the front.

I'll email whiteline to try and find out why the front camber bolts are race use only.

All I can think of is that it might be illegal to have two camber bolts (upper and lower).

Jake.

AlpineRaven wrote:Can you tell me what is "camber" is out? - Just want to clear up as I might be confused something else!
Cheers
AP

If you look at the car from in front or behind Camber is how much the wheel leans in or out.
In at the top is negative Camber and a little bit is good for handling on road.
Out at the top is positive and is not so good, as Xtreme_RX said lifting causes Camber to get more positive.

__JC__ wrote: All I can think of is that it might be illegal to have two camber bolts (upper and lower).

Jake.

I thought Whitelines instructions were, replace the factory camber bolt for 1.5 degrees more adjustment, or if that was not enough then use both upper and lower camber bolts but not on road.
?
Would be worth checking though...
Xtreme_RX how much are we looking at? Front and Rear?
Daza.

daza wrote:I thought Whitelines instructions were, replace the factory camber bolt for 1.5 degrees more adjustment, or if that was not enough then use both upper and lower camber bolts but not on road.
?
Would be worth checking though..

That makes more sense now, I totally missed that the factory bolt could be replaced on the front. Thanks Daza.

Do you know how much adjustment the factory front camber bolt allows?

00outback wrote:I'm also looking at some after market camber bolts for my lifted Lib
it seems I can't get enough adjustment out of the genuine ones
but well the after market ones help with this.

The answers in NO. They are designed by a US company & the US spec early Liberty’s did not have camber bolts in the front struts. The will not give any more front camber than the OE bolts. And No the white line ones are no different, you can not physically fit a bigger lobe in to the strut / steering knuckle.

Hence the adjustable strut tops.

I will get a price tonight for all parties interested...

Xtreme_RX wrote:The answers in NO. They are designed by a US company & the US spec early Liberty’s did not have camber bolts in the front struts. The will not give any more front camber than the OE bolts. And No the white line ones are no different, you can not physically fit a bigger lobe in to the strut / steering knuckle.

Hence the adjustable strut tops.

Thanks for that. Got the email back from whiteline and they pretty much said the exact same thing "there should be a enough adjustment in the OE bolts". The reason whiteline gave for the KCA414's not being recommended for the street is because they "give the strut no real pivot point".

PM me with a price for the rears, can we pick up in Brisbane?

Jake.

Okay,Yeah I get it now, Yeah my liberty is showing like this \-/ and the tyres are lampy on the outside section.

There is no adjustment bolts for camber.

Only problem is, if you install them on the rear then you will need bigger hole for the adjustment.

But I've thought of something better, is to install blocks on the diff carrier to same specifications as Outback then that will improve the negative camber.

That only affects on lifted Liberty. So I will make the blocks over the weekend or next week and install it to see if it does improve or not.

Cheers
AP

Oh.. this is similar what I am planning to do but make my own blocks for that -




I need to get the measurements off from outback and get the block made up. These two photos are from Outback.

I am so sure it will solve all camber problems.

Cheers
AP

AlpineRaven can you let us all know if this solves your camber problems.