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Lift Kit advice

Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 5:04 pm
by Chad241WRC
Ok boys need some direction and advice.......

I've got a MY 1800 Wagon, which i just bought the 14inch desert rats with 27inch rubber off RSR555. They look sweet on the car and fit with the Factory adjust ment, but you cant turn the front wheel obviously.......

So my question is What are the options for lift kits out there???? I see there is BYB but it seems hard to get in touch with them, and then theres the Scorpian Subaru one which look farken fantastic but does cost a fair bit too......

Also after doing the lift will i still have to manipulate the body work a little to ensure no rubbing??

Sorry for the questions but i couldn't find a complete straight answer doing a search through the forum.

Thanks in advance boys, the sooner this is sorted the sooner I'm out on those tracks........ :mrgreen:

Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 5:29 pm
by heath
iv built all my lift kits myself it isn't hard and its cheap. just make sure you use high tensile bolts. i think for all the bolts on mine it cost about 35 bucks. it only took me an my mate 1 day to build and install the one i'm runnig in my sedan. and we also changed it from 2wd auto to a 4wd dual range manual on that same day(the trick is dont drink to much) you also have to cut the front of the car under the bumper but that is easy i'll try put a couple of picks of where i cut when i get my camera back of my mate.

Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:46 pm
by Chad241WRC
Thanks for that info........... anyone else.......

just after info

Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:02 pm
by brumbyrunner
Have you sent Dave (subiwankanobie) a PM? He's not that hard to get hold of.
Personally, I don't know why you'd bother building a lift kit when you can buy one all pretty and plated, for a few hundred bucks. You don't have to work out your strut-top camber and steering extension either.

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 12:27 am
by El_Freddo
brumbyrunner wrote:Personally, I don't know why you'd bother building a lift kit when you can buy one all pretty and plated, for a few hundred bucks. You don't have to work out your strut-top camber and steering extension either.
Because some people enjoy making their own stuff for their car and take pride in it. I realise that some people lead busy lives and may not have their own equipment to do the work so I can understand their position too.

But yes, as Brumbyrunner has said, SWK is the one to talk to.

Cheers

Bennie

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 8:51 pm
by soobs_rule_m8
Thinking of doing the same myself. Heard rumours lifting shortens the life of the CV's. Can anyone confirm this? Must admit the idea of buying a kit is easy but I prefer to make what I can myself - and when it comes to being tight with bucks - pick me.

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 10:57 pm
by brumbyrunner
A body lift has absolutely no affect on the lifespan of CVs.
Imagine the complete engine, drivetrain, suspension as a seperate unit to the cabin (body). Raising the body 50mm or 500mm is not going to do anything except chage the centre of gravity.

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 11:04 pm
by soobs_rule_m8
I was under the impression the usual lift kit extended the height of the suspension, therfore increasing the angle on the CV? What is the point - other than looks - of raising just the body?

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 11:09 pm
by SuBaRiNo
Point is, by raising the body you can put bugger wheels on. This acheives greater ground clearance. And your right... looks awesome.

A lift is almost pointless without the big wheels to go with it. Almost.

Dave

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 11:10 pm
by Chrus
Raising the body allows (in some cases) fitment of larger diameter tyre/wheel combo, raising the vehicle even more :cool:

edit:bit slow on the typing side of things

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 11:18 pm
by soobs_rule_m8
No drama's. I will have to look into this further. The kit the old man put on his Brumby years ago fitted onto the top of the shocks, which is why I thought tha angle of the CV 's was increased. I'll search for the thread on "body lift".
Cheers

Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 12:20 am
by AndrewT
If it ONLY had lift components ontop of the shockies then yes, CV angle would be increased and cause them to flog out pretty quick. If it's a proper body lift kit then it will have also included lift blocks for the rest of the car like the engine crossmemeber. Dropping the engine crossmember down by the same amount means the CV angles return to pretty much their original position.

Suspension lift increases CV angle.
Body lift doesn't.

Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 6:30 am
by Outback bloke
If you know nothing about lift kits then you are better off buying one. There is a lot more to it to get it right than people make out. Also, a lot of the "home" made kits are very dodgy (not saying any one in particular) and is the reason that the transport department crack down on things.

If you attempt to make a kit yourself be prepared to put in a lot of time to get it right.

Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 2:20 pm
by El_Freddo
Outback bloke wrote:If you know nothing about lift kits then you are better off buying one. There is a lot more to it to get it right than people make out. Also, a lot of the "home" made kits are very dodgy (not saying any one in particular) and is the reason that the transport department crack down on things.

If you attempt to make a kit yourself be prepared to put in a lot of time to get it right.
Hey OB, I'm looking at making my own lift, could you PM me anything that I Should know before I start?

It shouldn't be too dodgy, I don't want it falling apart or being a hazard to other road users and I've got a parts car to "develop" it with, meaning no down time on my daily driver...

Cheers

Bennie

Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 3:41 pm
by Outback bloke
A basic guide is 6mm offset per inch of lift, weld in anti-crush tubes if using steel box section, fit 2" blocks to the gearbox area with a 3" lift and 40mm blocks with a 2" lift, same size blocks on the centre carrier bearing as the gearbox, make sure your welds are good before you do the steering, do not heat the steering too much and use high tensile bolts.

Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 6:29 pm
by El_Freddo
Outback bloke wrote:A basic guide is 6mm offset per inch of lift, weld in anti-crush tubes if using steel box section, fit 2" blocks to the gearbox area with a 3" lift and 40mm blocks with a 2" lift, same size blocks on the centre carrier bearing as the gearbox, make sure your welds are good before you do the steering, do not heat the steering too much and use high tensile bolts.
Cheers OB, it may be a little while off yet - gotta wait for uni to finish and the weather to warm up/dry out a little bit first.

With the 6mm offset per inch, this is only for the front strut tops correct? And will this address the L series \-/ to more like /-\, I think its camber I'm talking about.

Cheers

Bennie

Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 6:21 pm
by soobs_rule_m8
Where's the best place around Perth or even better - Bunbury to pick up a lift kit and about how much are they?

Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 3:15 pm
by Chad241WRC
Its either a Scorpian Subaru Kit or a Backyard Boys Kit (on this forum) for the suby, and there both in the eastern States..... going through the steps now myself....

Chad

Lift Qustion

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 5:55 pm
by Stretch
Sorry for my ignorance but I am new to the Subby gang. I have an 85 L-Series Wagon that I am in the midle of replacing the head gaskets on the EA82 that is in it. I was wandering what do you get in a 2" lift kit, how much do I need to pay and from whom. I am in Newcastle NSW.

Chers

Stretch

Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 9:25 pm
by Suby Wan Kenobi
A lift kit is composed of spacer blocks to space your driveline away from your body, this enables you to fit larger wheels giving you more underbody clearance.

PM sent