Rebuilding L series Steering Rack

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 6:24 am

I have worked out that the noises from my front end are the steering rack. I wobble the steering wheel and the input shaft moves, but the tie rods dont. So there is play in there somewhere.

I priced a new one.... $450

Bursons will exchange a rebuilt one for $350

What i want to know, can i rebuild it myself

Its a manual steering rack (not power steering)

Thanks

Venom · Post by **Venom** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:52 am

Can you replace the rack ends on an L series? If you can pin the movement down to one side and just replace that rack end if it is possible.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 11:08 am

Whatever you do definitely upgrade to power steering! I cannot think why you wouldn't

Benno · Post by **Benno** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 4:18 pm

yeah my steering is also loose...

but in my car i dont really think it is worth fixing...

Redroo · Post by **Redroo** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 4:33 pm

Hi
Where did you get the price for your new one @ $450?
Would like to know as just got price from pedders for $615 exchange (+ftg)
Or if anyone knows a good mob over here in Perth
Mark

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 5:38 pm

$450 from local spare parts joint.

If i was to go with power steering later on, can i put a powersteering rack on now and leave it disconnected till i remove the manifold to fit the power steering pump?

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 11:47 pm

Suparoo wrote:If i was to go with power steering later on, can i put a powersteering rack on now and leave it disconnected till i remove the manifold to fit the power steering pump?

No Definitely dont do that. also steering will probably be harder then it is now.

Also make sure its not your inner Tie rod ends which have play in them (under the Steering Rack boots.

Manual Steering Racks are really simple as so ill be surprised if you couldn't disassemble it and reassemble it yourself. they are suppose to be set with a specific preload though but that can be worked around easily if you just set it to take the slack out of it but not ridiculously tight obviously.

another thing would be to check the adjustment on the Actual rack u got now
somewhere near the pinion im guessing there should be 2 Nuts one in the other. undo the outer one and you can gently wind in the inner one and see if it helps the slack in it at all. but i wouldnt change it much if nothing happens.

thats about all i can tell u

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 9:13 am

given your past proven capabilites I'd give it a go - on a spare one perhaps and research just what bits you can buy for repair - gen and aftermarket.

Lemme have a look, I did have a manual rack , think I may have chucked it...

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:48 pm

Do you really have to remove the manifold to fit a power steering pump?
Even if you do surely it's worth doing that and fitting power steering than dicking around rebuilding a non power rack? hardly seems worth it, power steering is great and it's seriously cheap to get a rack and pump from a wreck...

tex · Post by **tex** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:13 am

Odds are Im thinking of a rack out of a different car as no one has suggested this yet but on most manual racks there are two covers that you can pull off and by removing a shim from each one at a time should well tighten it up
provided its not the rod ends. Someone should be able to tell you if I'm right and maybe describe the diamond shaped plates better.
Also if this is the case do one cover at a time but don't remove more than two or three shims (metal but cardboard like thickness)

subalex · Post by **subalex** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 9:23 pm

I converted mine to power steer straight after I bought it and it cost me $200 for the complete system, rack, pump, mounting plate and piping from a wrecker 4 years ago (could be cheaper now). You don't need to remove the manifold to fit the mounting plate and pump. You will, however, need to take the airbox off and take off a couple of pipes to the manifold to get decent access to tighten the bolts.

If you have a lift kit, get the steering extension to suit first. The power steer rack is taller than the non-power version so the extension is a lot shorter. All-in-all it's a pretty easy job. Probably easier than the repairs and the benefits are quite noticeable.

Of course, second hand racks are anyone's guess as to the condition and I have replaced the pump ($80) and rack (free) once since. (Seal on the pump leaked after two years and the rack eventually got some play in it after some heavy work.) Still, I'd do it again.

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 7:49 am

The MPFI turbo intake plenum sits over the bolts for the power steering pump bracket so I will have to take it off (but that gives me an excuse to match-port the intake to heads {which i forgot to do in my rebuild})

I didnt think i really needed power steering, i dont really have problems steering my car as it is. Im sure it will make it easier though.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:43 am

yeah, easier to leave pink fluid on friends driveways, easier to worry about a presure component or reservoir to leak or dribble every and anywhere..sound a bit cynical don't I ? I get out of my powered steer L and into the Brumby after just a day or two and I find i have gone soft!

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:55 am

Awww i thought i was gonna just install a new/reconditioned rack and be done with it, now i cant decide if i should get power steering as well.

Does powersteering take away the feel and feedback from the road that you get with manual steering?

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 12:44 pm

nah not in an L series, pretty much the same cept easier to turn the steering wheel.

subalex · Post by **subalex** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:16 pm

Since you've got a turbo engine and you DON'T have power steer so far think of it this way... get power steer and you'll not only have plenty of feel for the road, you'll also be able to steer with better control, holding the smooth line you want, at a much higher speed around a corner, over bumps and with that typical front end torque steer trying to pull you somewhere else.

timmo · Post by **timmo** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 3:12 pm

agree with you subalex. instantly makes the driving experience better. feels like a modern car instead of a 20y/o POS. when you commit to doing it the manifold doesnt take to long to get off & on again make sure you got new gaskets ready.

cheers

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 5:21 pm

mmmm ok... i did have a pump that came off my touring wagon, it needs a reseal. I just have to find pipes and i may as well buy a new rack cos i cant find any other option. Talking to the wrecker today, he said that if the mechanism inside is shagged, there is little point rebuilding them.

Anybody got some spare p/s pipes to suit an l series?

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Thu Aug 28, 2008 1:48 pm

Hi Gannon , well worth having - a frend of mine swears its going into his Brumby one day .

L power racks - these silly things are something like 3.7 turns lock to lock so they really have power assisted manual rack "gearing" so to speak .
Some people fit Impreza WRX power racks with the 2.7 gearing so you don't have to spin the "tiller" as much .

Now because L PWR racks have low gearing I don't se why you could not run one unassisted but there is a few things you'd need to do .
Firstly it would be better with some oil inside it so it's not running dry .
Secondly you need to get any excess oil back out by turning the thing from one side to the other or it will fight you in unassisted mode .
Thirdly you need to make a loop hose and connect the rack unions - don't just plug them or you get an air pressure buildup inside the rack and again it'll fight you . The air needs to be able to pass from one side to the other .

Power steering rack pipe unions are generally uncommon ones so the easiest way to make adapters is to get hard lines from a wreck and cut them an inch or so up the tube from the rack . A couple of hose clamps and a bit of rubber hose completes the "loop line" .

Gee tells me that GC8 Rex racks are not super dear and all but fall into an L series provided you fit the appropriate tie rods ends .

I did partially remove Ellie RX's pump when I had the rail out to clean the fuel injectors . Subaru stupidly has a small bolt tieing down part of the fuel rail right behind the pwr steer pump and its a bit long meaning it hit the pump bracket before it wants to leave its hole .
From memory you need to remove the pump from it's bracket to get at things , I may have removed its pulley wheel and then discovered you can get at its mounting bolts through the holes in the pulley - can't remember .
Anyhow whatever you do replace the bolt on the front of the MPFI inlet manifold holding the fuel rail tag with a shorter one otherwise its a fair bit of work to get at things with the pump in situ . I just omitted the bolt with no issues , actually just had another look , its the right hand rail mount one and a short one would do the trick .
At a glance you may be righ about having to lift the MPFI manifold to get the pump bracket bolts out .

Cheers A .

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:09 pm

left my little bolt out there too ! good advice A.