Pedders VS KYB Shocks and Lovells Springs
- sociallydisabled
- Junior Member
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:03 pm
- Location: Picton, NSW
Pedders VS KYB Shocks and Lovells Springs
Hi, got a quote for these 2 options just want to know peoples experiences and opinions.
Pedders SportsRyder Springs and Shocks all round
VS
KYB Shocks and Lovells Springs dont know what kind, aparantly the Sports Package.
any sort of guidance is appreciated.
Cheers,
Adam
Pedders SportsRyder Springs and Shocks all round
VS
KYB Shocks and Lovells Springs dont know what kind, aparantly the Sports Package.
any sort of guidance is appreciated.
Cheers,
Adam
what car?
kybs are probably the best option. Tyr and steer clear of lovells tho. They sag pretty quickly. Kings are the best alround option
alex
kybs are probably the best option. Tyr and steer clear of lovells tho. They sag pretty quickly. Kings are the best alround option
alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.
previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.
previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.
- sociallydisabled
- Junior Member
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:03 pm
- Location: Picton, NSW
- AlpineRaven
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3682
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Factory struts are KYB on Liberty. So maybe stick with KYB?
But sounds like you wanna lower it, then Pedders Sports & Kings lowered coils is better.
Cheers
AP
But sounds like you wanna lower it, then Pedders Sports & Kings lowered coils is better.
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

Pedders springs are built by king to Pedders specifications (Not the same specs as Kings) Pedders shocks are Monroe re bagged....
KYB are OE for subaru.... Cant go wrong....
KYB are OE for subaru.... Cant go wrong....
SubiParts Australia - Australia's BIGGEST Aftermarket Subaru Parts Specialist
http://www.subiparts.com.au
BlackBox Motorsports - Subaru Suspension Systems
http://www.blackboxmotorsports.com.au
0438 887 746
'L' Series Touring Wagon - EJ22 & 4.111 AWD
Gen 1 Liberty GX – Worked EJ22 & 4.11 AWD
http://www.subiparts.com.au
BlackBox Motorsports - Subaru Suspension Systems
http://www.blackboxmotorsports.com.au
0438 887 746
'L' Series Touring Wagon - EJ22 & 4.111 AWD
Gen 1 Liberty GX – Worked EJ22 & 4.11 AWD
- discopotato03
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2134
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
- Location: Sydney
Whiteline for springs IMO .
I wouldn't be in any hurry to lower a road car , people rush to do this for some odd reason but this is why it often fails to give good results .
Lowering road cars is a good way to get the body closer to its bump stops and when they hit them its nasty and not doing handling any favours .
To make a car with less bump or compression travel work the spring rates have to be high enough to try to prevent the car from bottoming on its bump stops . The lower it is the higher the spring rates need to be .
People claim that a lower car has a lower center of gravity , but if the geometry is screwed up in the process and the car hits its stops often - it won't handle anyway .
If your springs have sagged by all means replace them - possibly with slightly higher rate ones which control body roll better and resist nose dive under brakes .
Imo step 2 is to do something with anti roll bars and with a predominantly FrWD design you change the rear one first .
I would be looking at those aftermarket bushes that fit at the rear of the front "A" arms to increase caster .
I would also see how much adjustment you can get where the two bolts/nuts hold the front struts to the uprights (knuckles) . I'm pretty sure Whiteline amongst others sell eccentric camber adjustment bolts and you may be able to use two in each side depending on what camber settings you want .
So basically reduce body roll (springs/bars) and dial out some of the understeer with front camber/caster changes .
I wouldn't run bigger that 16" wheels and 15 would be fine (unsprung weight) . On 16s figure on 50 profile or 55/60 on 15s , the sweet spot price wise is 205/50/16 or 205/60/15 .
I'd much rather have a good 205 like say a Michelin or Yokohama than a cheap nasty 215/225 width tyre , wider isn't better if the compound and carcase is garbage .
Lastly tyres that bag out because they're wider than the rim should have is an exercise in stupidity , only idiots do this .
Its a lot of fun running rings around cap on backwards Wally mobiles when driving a std height car - with its factory wheels .
Ultra low = ultra PITA , I don't have all day to crawl diagonally over speed humps and drive ways , my car V rarely bottoms out .
Dampers ? Of the two mentioned KYB over Monroe trash every time .
I think some later Libs (Heritage ?) came with Bilsteins so 2nd hand in reasonable order would be the cats whiskers . They can be rebuilt too if they are not bent .
Cheers A .
I wouldn't be in any hurry to lower a road car , people rush to do this for some odd reason but this is why it often fails to give good results .
Lowering road cars is a good way to get the body closer to its bump stops and when they hit them its nasty and not doing handling any favours .
To make a car with less bump or compression travel work the spring rates have to be high enough to try to prevent the car from bottoming on its bump stops . The lower it is the higher the spring rates need to be .
People claim that a lower car has a lower center of gravity , but if the geometry is screwed up in the process and the car hits its stops often - it won't handle anyway .
If your springs have sagged by all means replace them - possibly with slightly higher rate ones which control body roll better and resist nose dive under brakes .
Imo step 2 is to do something with anti roll bars and with a predominantly FrWD design you change the rear one first .
I would be looking at those aftermarket bushes that fit at the rear of the front "A" arms to increase caster .
I would also see how much adjustment you can get where the two bolts/nuts hold the front struts to the uprights (knuckles) . I'm pretty sure Whiteline amongst others sell eccentric camber adjustment bolts and you may be able to use two in each side depending on what camber settings you want .
So basically reduce body roll (springs/bars) and dial out some of the understeer with front camber/caster changes .
I wouldn't run bigger that 16" wheels and 15 would be fine (unsprung weight) . On 16s figure on 50 profile or 55/60 on 15s , the sweet spot price wise is 205/50/16 or 205/60/15 .
I'd much rather have a good 205 like say a Michelin or Yokohama than a cheap nasty 215/225 width tyre , wider isn't better if the compound and carcase is garbage .
Lastly tyres that bag out because they're wider than the rim should have is an exercise in stupidity , only idiots do this .
Its a lot of fun running rings around cap on backwards Wally mobiles when driving a std height car - with its factory wheels .
Ultra low = ultra PITA , I don't have all day to crawl diagonally over speed humps and drive ways , my car V rarely bottoms out .
Dampers ? Of the two mentioned KYB over Monroe trash every time .
I think some later Libs (Heritage ?) came with Bilsteins so 2nd hand in reasonable order would be the cats whiskers . They can be rebuilt too if they are not bent .
Cheers A .
- AlpineRaven
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3682
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Bilsteins can be found on some Gen 2 RX Liberty & some Heritage, Gen3 B4, as well.. they're pretty hard to get and expensive as well but good thing about them they can be reconditioned.
Cheers
AP
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

- discopotato03
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2134
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
- Location: Sydney
- sociallydisabled
- Junior Member
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:03 pm
- Location: Picton, NSW
Thanks for the replies guys, i have gone for the kyp and lovells just for personal reasons, im getting a sports kit, lowered 35mm just for the wank factor.
Obviously this is going to cause alignment issues. can these be re adjusted on the factory parts, as i have looked underneath and i cant really see where the adjustments are made, im used to mini suspension.
cheers guys
Obviously this is going to cause alignment issues. can these be re adjusted on the factory parts, as i have looked underneath and i cant really see where the adjustments are made, im used to mini suspension.
cheers guys