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Hi just wondering what the pro's and cons are of a strut only lift?

im aware that the CV's will bugger out quicker.....but how much quicker?
It doesnt bother me if i only get say 50,000 out of cv's as ill just re-build them myself.

any help is much appriciated.

thanks

Gruntus wrote:im aware that the CV's will bugger out quicker.....but how much quicker?

What sort of subi are we talking about? I know the L's don't like strut only lift but generally the later model subi's from the liberty onwards don't mind it as they're all AWD so the load is shared between 4 drive shafts instead of just 2 when on-road. The suspension setup on the later models also helps with the strut lift and CV angles.

As for pros:

Easy to install and remove (if needed)
Generally cheaper than a full body kit

Cons:

I'm not sure that there are any... :P

Cheers

Bennie

I wouldn't be hopefully of getting a good wheel alignment, you'd get quite of a bit of cambur as the A-arms would effectively be shortened, pulling the hub closer into the body in relation to the top of the strut, making it look more like \ instead of |.

Strut top lift blocks are made with an offset to correct the camber issue - its a fundamental part of the design.

AndrewT wrote:Strut top lift blocks are made with an offset to correct the camber issue - its a fundamental part of the design.

Yep and there is also the top bolt (at the bottom of the strut) which is an eccentric lobes bolt to help with wheel alignments. We have 2 eccentric bolts (per side) in some race cars to increase the negative camber

RSR 555 wrote: to increase the negative camber

negative camber is so dope yo

I might just add a quick question to save me starting a new thread.
Im making a trip to Perth in Just over a month for a week, im getting A/T tires and Dobinson spring lift. I was thinking a 1 or2inch strut/body lift too.

Does this mean for example if I put in a 1" strut lift that raises the body of the car 1" that my gear stick, e-brake and D/R leaver will drop 1inch as the drive train, engine, etc stays where they are? I know my springs will lift everything but will a strut lift lower my gear stick, etc...?

taza wrote:I might just add a quick question to save me starting a new thread.
Im making a trip to Perth in Just over a month for a week, im getting A/T tires and Dobinson spring lift. I was thinking a 1 or2inch strut/body lift too.

Does this mean for example if I put in a 1" strut lift that raises the body of the car 1" that my gear stick, e-brake and D/R leaver will drop 1inch as the drive train, engine, etc stays where they are? I know my springs will lift everything but will a strut lift lower my gear stick, etc...?

1" body lift (and 2" strut tops) will make your gear shifter move slightly but not enough to worry about. Your hand brake and d/r lever are on a cable system and there is plenty of play/movement in the way they are fitted to the body so no change at all will be noticed.

Ok Thanks a heap. Im going the full package now! 2" strut lift, Dobinson raised springs (35mm) and bigger tires

Cant wait for 2months time My little subi is gonna power offroad!

what bout a 2 inch strut lift with a 2-3 inch body lift

taza wrote:I might just add a quick question to save me starting a new thread.
Im making a trip to Perth in Just over a month for a week, im getting A/T tires and Dobinson spring lift. I was thinking a 1 or2inch strut/body lift too.

Does this mean for example if I put in a 1" strut lift that raises the body of the car 1" that my gear stick, e-brake and D/R leaver will drop 1inch as the drive train, engine, etc stays where they are? I know my springs will lift everything but will a strut lift lower my gear stick, etc...?

You won't notice the difference with the stick. Read my new post, easy fix if you have problems with a wobbly car lol.
You do realise there are at least 28 points that need to be lifted so expect to be forking out for lots of longer h/t bolts, I'd just be seeing how the springs go first & unless you change diffs it's only going to have a bit more clearance, no more power or traction.

d_generate wrote:You won't notice the difference with the stick. Read my new post, easy fix if you have problems with a wobbly car lol.
You do realise there are at least 28 points that need to be lifted so expect to be forking out for lots of longer h/t bolts, I'd just be seeing how the springs go first & unless you change diffs it's only going to have a bit more clearance, no more power or traction.

Power isnt much of an issue and traction isnt an issue at all. I have quick disconnects for my rear sway bar (only because its illegal to remove them completely in Australia) and 4 new Yokahama Geolander AT-S tyres in a bigger size. The tyres seem to go pretty well, I seem to be bottoming out and/or bashing my front bumper alot. With a lift it will help with approach and departure angles slightly.

I am defernatly doing the raised Dobinson Springs at Malaga Springs and Suspension next month. I am not going with a 2" strut top lift since i will need an engineering certificate. I was thinking 1" strut top lift with the raised springs. How does that sound or would their still be too much stress on the CV's and other components?

Thanks and Regards
Taza

Personally I'd only go 1" and it'll be free fitting when they do the springs, that's all I have but mine is a complete body lift, you'd better see about some of those camber bolts too otherwise you'll probably be up for a 2nd wheel alignment.

Ok. Thanks heaps again D_Generate. Im coming down for a week in May so maybe we could organise an offroad trip for a day or overnighter.

Yeah, maybe do Lancelin & you are 1/4 the way home from there.

d_generate wrote:Yeah, maybe do Lancelin & you are 1/4 the way home from there.

Yeah. Well im keen to meet a few of the city guys and do abit of a trip. That would be good

hey taza, i've put the 2" strut top lift on, and put the same bigger yokohama AT-s tires on, and its loving life, my mext thing is HD springs, but i wont go for much of a raise, only another 10mm or so, as the 2" lift has been plenty, so if you go with the 35 mm lift, i would only go with 1" strut top lift? maybe, maybe, only maybe 2" lift, but certainly not a body lift, and the other guy said, 28 points need to be adjusted and the labour involved and costs, is not really that worth it when compared to other more cost effective results. but if time and money and convenience werent an issue then its a good idea,
look forward to an offroad cruze when your in the area.

longy