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Having put in raised springs i got an alignment only to discover at full adjustment i still had POSITIVE camber front & rear
I've heard many members discussing their positive camber so i'm wondering if anyone's used camber bolts...
Adjustable strut tops would be nice but are sooo expensive

After some research i've discovered you can replace the strut bolts in front (lower) or rear (upper) with aftermarket camber bolts.

There's a really good tutorial for doing it. Just remember they are REDUCING camber in lowered cars, we're INCREASING camber in raised cars:

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=6365
or
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1590221


Prices are funny. American eBay is around $22 + $14 postage, Oz eBay is $77+, free postage!!!


There seems to be 2 types, both with lobes.
Whiteline with tabbed washer:
http://www.scoobytuner.com/products/...productID=3108

H&R without tabbed washer:
http://www.scoobytuner.com/products/...productID=3106

I am unsure of the H&R bolts. While they look more solid they don't have the tabbed washer which locates the bolt end in the hole. without it surely they're just relying on friction to keep it in place.

What do others think?

Has anyone used camber bolts before & has some advice they would like to share?

This is a pretty good discussion discussing the tutorial:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=1590221

Gee that was a clumsy intro haha

Another option is modifying the upper bolt hole on the strut and thereby changing the inclination angle of the hub slightly. I'm going down this road with my impreza (SF5 Forrie struts).

You simply elongate the bolt hole in and down, then weld heavy gauge washers in the correct position on both sides. Exactly how much to elongate the hole is the hard part, but if you get it right the resulting effect is a return to negative camber. Once I've done it I'll know exactly how much to elongate the hole by, but I think a few mm will do it.

My understanding is that this is the method used by a number of race/ rally teams as camber bolts can slip under big loads (airbourne to ground)!

Jayd

Interesting. Let us know how it goes...

After I lifted my lib(50mm) the guys at pedders put in H&R style camber bolts $$$$$. Camber is now perfect.

I've got them in the rear top holes but I put GD WRX MY01> alloy arms in mine as they are 1cm longer so no problems yet but if I go an extra 1" at the front I may have to add them to the bottom but they are an easy quick fix, the wheel aligner should have offered them to you.

d_generate wrote:I've got them in the rear top holes but I put GD WRX MY01> alloy arms in mine as they are 1cm longer so no problems yet but if I go an extra 1" at the front I may have to add them to the bottom but they are an easy quick fix, the wheel aligner should have offered them to you.

I dont think he knew about them. But from what i have now read there is NO WAY i would let some BUFFOON with a HAMMER force em in & bend the tab...then not tell me bout it so when it fails, (ie SNAPS!) he can just blame me for non-standard installation...of course having got me to sign a waiver!

The longer arm is interesting idea. Have heard a WRX or STi arm is longer than Forester arm & therefore would create neg camber but i'm bit wary of doing it that way unless i know it works lol...ie, is the RIGHT amount longer.

Anyway, so far have found:
Whiteline Camber Bolts, KCA414, US$65+P
http://www.scoobytuner.com/products/?vA ... uctID=3108

H&R Camber Bolts, TC114, US$55+P
http://www.customcarscentral.com/hnrtc1 ... ester.html

Eibach Camber Bolts, US$17+P
http://scoobytuner.com/products/?vAppli ... uctID=3107

A few people have slammed the Eibach as being cheap nasty & almost certain to slip or snap! Great! Just what you want in a vital suspension component!!!

I think i'll go the Whiteline. They're a good company with quality products & i'm happy to pay the extra for peace of mind & safety. Now just to haggle a good deal lol

Yeah I've got the WRX arms in mine, bit of fiddling/cutting to get them between the chassis rails and the steering rack arms are wound out close to their limit but otherwise no problems.

Sounds more like a monkey than a wheel aligner was working on the car.

d_generate wrote:Yeah I've got the WRX arms in mine, bit of fiddling/cutting to get them between the chassis rails and the steering rack arms are wound out close to their limit but otherwise no problems.

Sounds more like a monkey than a wheel aligner was working on the car.

He actually did a good job on the alignment, way better than last place i went to who didnt even know there was camber adjustment in the rear...so didnt adjust it!