Making a Liberty/Outback Lift kit

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:52 pm

Hi Guys,

Ok so I'm thinking of making a lift kit for a 98 Liberty. I searched and got tired of reading threads on L series, foresters and Brumby/My liftkits.

Anyway I need some help. I need to know the amount of offset I need for the Liberty, Front and rear?? Is it the same As the others?

Second thing, I'm thinking of using 50mm (2 inch) HDPE POLYETHYLENE BODY LIFT BLOCKS. I think Tom was using that on his WRX or similar??
Any one used it? Do they last? Should i get cylindrical or rectangular blocks?
And would i be able to use them for the cross-members and everywhere else?

Thx

taza · Post by **taza** » Mon Mar 11, 2013 10:54 pm

Is this for your dodgy DIY painted Outback? That's Gen 2 right not Gen 3?

Just do a 50mm strut lift all round. Use a 7mm off set of camber for each 25mm high you make the block. 7mm for the front and half that for the rear. So 3.5mm for each 25mm(1") you make the block high in the rear.
I added caster into my lift blocks too which helped when it came to wheel aligning...
For 50mm you won't need body lift blocks, you can quite safely run that without needing them. I have 100mm of suspension lift in the back of my foz with no issues.

You don't want to use steel instead? Only cost me about $100 to 1 set of blocks for me and a few hours...
I didn't water cut my top and bottom plates to save costs.

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:30 pm

Nope, That camo Outback was long time sold. Got a new one now:p

How Did you add Caster into your Lift blocks?

You have a Foz, already has semi lift block on the cross member etc, same as the outback. Mine is a Liberty and i'm planning to use outback strut and shocks. I want to use 50mm body lift blocks and 75mm on the shocks with the outback shocks:p

How did you cut your plates?

taza · Post by **taza** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 9:17 am

Oh ok. haha I can't keep up with all your purchases, your worse than Paul :P

We moved the top plate of the block to the left by 2mm on the front (I have 50mm blocks on the front and 75mm on the back) and the back by 3mm.

Oh ok, no the Forester doesn't actually have Semi lift blocks accross the cross member, diff mounts, etc... that's only the Outback.

I cut mine with a plasma cutter then cleaned them up with a grinder and buffer.
This is how they came out after using the plasma cutter

The finished product

Davidov · Post by **Davidov** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 1:09 pm

Outbacks dont have any lift blocks (at least in 3rd gen) it has a different body design that gives it about 20mm extra body lift, and then the strut/spring design gives it the rest. This is why they have a longer steering joint.

Dont forget to reinforce the rear spring perch if you go raised springs or even without id reccomend doing it anyway.

JPM · Post by **JPM** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 6:40 pm

Just bite the bullet and get a C R O S S B R E D gen two lift kit, the quality is awesome and you know it will bolt straight up with zero dramas! I'm super happy I went that way with my 97 liberty wagon.

With the kit, outback struts and kings standard height outback springs, I've got enough clearance for most offroad situations I find myself encountering, and the on road driving hasn't suffered at all.

Jayd

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 7:54 pm

Davidov wrote:Outbacks dont have any lift blocks (at least in 3rd gen) it has a different body design that gives it about 20mm extra body lift, and then the strut/spring design gives it the rest. This is why they have a longer steering joint.

Dont be daft!

Gen3 Outbacks (and no dubt gen4)have lifting blocks under the engine crossmember,the rear suspension frame and the gearbox crossmember is taller.

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 7:56 pm

JPM wrote:Just bite the bullet and get a C R O S S B R E D gen two lift kit, the quality is awesome and you know it will bolt straight up with zero dramas! I'm super happy I went that way with my 97 liberty wagon.

With the kit, outback struts and kings standard height outback springs, I've got enough clearance for most offroad situations I find myself encountering, and the on road driving hasn't suffered at all.

Jayd

Ok cool. A few questions if you don't mind. How much did it cost delivered?
I assume you got a 2inch kit. Where all the blocks 2inch? Inch the strut tops? Gearbox cross member blocks?

d_generate · Post by **d_generate** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 8:54 pm

Hey Guy, I mostly used 25x50mm alloy bar cut to lengths and drilled, at the back I used 25mm lift tubes on the outer mustache ends with 25mm blocks everywhere else (above members etc)

Struts were stock Foz f&r, the rears had washers added to the collars to stop banging and upper bolts were replaced with camber bolts to help with some negative camber.

At the front I used 25mm nylon strut lifts and 25mm alloy lifts under every piont (32mm Outback lifts on front X member) like gearbox mounts, ALK mounts and any other solid area. the tailshaft mounts used alloy tube and we extended the steering knuckle to suit.

I also fitted GD alloy arms which are 1cm longer for better neg camber and of course extended the rear trailing arms by 20mm.

Would I do it again........Not to a Subi, just too many things that can go wrong though I absolutely loved the time I had with mine

Davidov · Post by **Davidov** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 9:04 pm

Gannon wrote:Dont be daft!

Gen3 Outbacks (and no dubt gen4)have lifting blocks under the engine crossmember,the rear suspension frame and the gearbox crossmember is taller.

Mine had no lift blocks.

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 9:35 pm

d_generate wrote: At the front I used 25mm nylon strut lifts

Thx tom. So would you use think i could use nylon lift blocks? did you ever had any issues with yours? How think where they?
What do other guys think about using that nylon or HDPE POLYETHYLENE blocks?

Davidov wrote:Mine had no lift blocks.

They don't look like lift kit blocks, More like cast spacers. Look Between your engine cross member and the chassis rail, you can't miss it..

Thx tom. So would you use the

JPM · Post by **JPM** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 10:34 pm

I'll flick you a PM Guy!

Jayd

Davidov · Post by **Davidov** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 11:07 pm

guyph_01 wrote:
They don't look like lift kit blocks, More like cast spacers. Look Between your engine cross member and the chassis rail, you can't miss it..

Was none there. Ive replaced my crossmember for an engine swap. Unless the previous owner removed them or something...very strange. Could there be differences with MY03/ very late 3rd gen or something?

Perhaps thats why my CV angles seemed so extreme with 3" of strut lift.

d_generate · Post by **d_generate** » Wed Mar 13, 2013 1:53 am

Guy I also had 60mm nylon blocks where the rear lateral arms mounted for a few months until we built the longer arms and they were great, very similar stuff to a chopping board.

Apparently a place in Malaga makes it, they use it for bin slides on those big heavy duty skip bins, I think Neil knows the company and I'm sure they could give you all the specs on compressibility etc.

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Thu Mar 14, 2013 1:10 am

This Is JPM's car. Lifted with 2inch Crossbreed lift kit with outback shocks and std king springs.

I wonder what Vehom has as setup?????

I'm thinking of going 2inch liftkit with 3inch strut tops with outback shocks and std springs on this lib:p

Venom · Post by **Venom** » Fri Mar 15, 2013 10:35 pm

I've got a X-Bread kit, which is 50mm all around. Outback shocks and standard height springs. Standard springs give OK articulation, and since I only have myself and my own gear in the car the weight isn't an issue.

I'm pretty happy with the x-bread, especially the steering extension.

My thoughts on lift kits though. Individual blocks in places like the rear trailing arm mount is ok, but they weaken that structure of the car. Ideally they would be cross-braced and then they are much less likely to move laterally and bend bolts/rip out captive nuts.

In fact I plan to have my trailing arm blocks and the moustache?/diff carrier blocks all cross braced together with some tube or flat bar into 1 unit. Maybe same with the front control arm mounts. I've already bent a couple of bolts and I don't think I've done anything hard core to justify it, it's just weak.

Also with the square tube blocks even though they are zinc plated mine are starting to rust. Obviously filled with hard to clean mud has retained enough moisture to do that. I think solid alloy would be better for that reason.

If you put outback shocks in with the 50mm body that is already giving you an extra 1" in the struts. So I think 3" strut tops is a bit excessive, but I like keeping the driveshaft angle as flat as possible.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Mar 16, 2013 8:57 am

Venom wrote:If you put outback shocks in with the 50mm body that is already giving you an extra 1" in the struts. So I think 3" strut tops is a bit excessive, but I like keeping the driveshaft angle as flat as possible.

Totally agree

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:29 pm

Venom wrote: In fact I plan to have my trailing arm blocks and the moustache?/diff carrier blocks all cross braced together with some tube or flat bar into 1 unit. Maybe same with the front control arm mounts. I've already bent a couple of bolts and I don't think I've done anything hard core to justify it, it's just weak.

After what You said i came up with an idea. Might work, not sure yet. Also decided to stick with metal blocks as its much cheaper. More work but cheaper! I Like that word for some reason;p

Will keep you guys informed of the progress....

Venom wrote: If you put outback shocks in with the 50mm body that is already giving you an extra 1" in the struts. So I think 3" strut tops is a bit excessive, but I like keeping the driveshaft angle as flat as possible.

Ok Ok, What about 2 1/2 inch strut tops then:D???

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 11:35 am

Go 4" all round

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 5:28 pm

RSR 555 wrote:Go 4" all round

:roll: