The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

I have made an observation.
All be it 12 years late but anyway.
I have a Scorpion 80W solid block aluminium lift kit in the MY wagon.
I was bought as a 2" kit and engineer approved the same.
I note the front struts spacer is (as best as I can measure with the struts in the car) 2" in size as is the spacer for the rear shocks.
I have not noted that other body blocks in the kit are only 1-1/2" and not 2".
Any logical reason for this ?
Everything in the instruction speak about 50mm (2") only.
The Front wheel alignment has always been crap re the camber (wheels out at the top) and I followed the instructions for fitting the front strut spacers so I cant see any issues here.
Just not sure about the different sizes of blocks though
Any thoughts ?

The basic blocks lift the suspension 2", the gearbox blocks were done in 1 1/2" to effectively let the geabox run closer to the body, giving more ground clearance.
Some kits just made the whole lot 2".

tambox wrote:The basic blocks lift the suspension 2", the gearbox blocks were done in 1 1/2" to effectively let the geabox run closer to the body, giving more ground clearance.
Some kits just made the whole lot 2".

+1 on what he said. Cliff, try measure the blocks on the rear half of your car, they may be 2'

On all the cars with lift i had, i've run 1/2 and inch less on the gearbox blocks and one inch more on the struts. Theres a few things people have done to try and correct the camber, mix-matching Lower arms, radius arm extensions, adjustable strut tops and more but there's a high amount of mods needed, cutting, drilling, welding etc and sometimes hard to be engineered.

Just put up with what you have and rotate tyres as much as u can:p

Cliff,

The main block to check is the engine crossmember block - if it's not a 2 inch block to match the strut tops that'll effect your front end's dynamics.

The other thing to check is to see if the strut tops have an offset built in to them - if they're just a square block with all the blots lining up one under the other (tower holes in relation to the strut top holes/bolts) that too will effect your front end geometry.

Hope it's good news all round. My lift kit has improved the front end geometry with the offset strut tops.

And to add to the lift kit talk with different sized blocks - I've got 3 inch strut tops, engine crossmember, rear sub frame and 2 inch on the gearbox crossmember to tuck things up.

Cheers

Bennie

All very interesting and useful info, does this mean I need to keep the gearbox xmember blocks shorter when I make my lift kit? What about the sway bar blocks and the 3 blocks that go under each radius rod mounting plate?

Silverbullet wrote:All very interesting and useful info, does this mean I need to keep the gearbox xmember blocks shorter when I make my lift kit? What about the sway bar blocks and the 3 blocks that go under each radius rod mounting plate?

Dunno specifically about the MYs, will have to have a look, but the radius rod plates on the L series also incorporates the gearbox crossmember, so lift blocks are required. And if you didn't have lift blocks there the radius rod would pull the control arm closer to the firewall/rear of the front guard.

Go with an inch or half an inch less on the radius rod plates/gearbox crossmember. In the case of the L series it also makes the gear linkages happier too. The MY would be different with the gearstick mounted to the top of the gearbox.

Cheers

Bennie

mike did this with all the scorpion kits. 50mm strut tops, and all the spacer blocks made out of 40x40 ally stock.

His reasoning was to give 10mm more ground clearance without overly changing suspension geometry.

By running a full 2" kit and raised springs you are effectively dong the same thing.

Thanks for the info everyone.
When I get time I will check a few things out (hopefully not another 12 years) but cant see any issues with a Scorpion kit, just need to sort out the alignment issue.