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Trailing Arm Blocks

Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:55 am
by NachaLuva
Trailing arm blocks are used for those raising their suspension by 2" or more. It goes between the TA mount & the chassis rail to maintain the correct rear wheel position & the arc it follows as the suspension articulates.

Most TA blocks on the market are individual blocks, one with 2 holes (rear) & one with one hole (front). The trouble with this is under heavy loads like hitting a pothole, speed hump, rut or dropping a spinning wheel, these individual blocks rock back & forth, causing metal fatigue in the rails. There have been examples of bad cracks & one where the captive nuts were ripped out through the rail! Thats a catastrophic failure!!! Image

By welding the blocks together, this "rocking" is eliminated, also any shearing force is spread more evenly across the 3 bolts.

I also put end plates on the blocks (others are open ended) to further strengthen them & to keep mud out & help prevent rust Image

They also have crush tubes...I cant believe some kits dont have crush tubes! Image

A set (left & right) of TA blocks after welding, ready for cleaning up & painting Image

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Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:16 pm
by RSR 555
Umm.. is this groundhog day?

Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:31 pm
by vincentvega
Mate they are a work of art but theres hundreds of cars around lifted with 2 separate blocks! The pot bole you are referring to that ripped the bolts out was HUGE..

I think your tied together front control arm mounts are higher priority then these.

Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:33 pm
by vincentvega
And who sells kits without crush tubes? They are usually diy jobs..

Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 3:52 pm
by NachaLuva
RSR 555 wrote:Umm.. is this groundhog day?
Haha I thought I would do this thread to help explain why use TA blocks even on a strut lift & show what they look like completed ;)
vincentvega wrote:And who sells kits without crush tubes? They are usually diy jobs..
Usually. Sumo dont:
SUMO 2" Trailing Arm Spacers

I think if you had a look around there'd be a few cars with unbraced TA blocks that have cracks around them. Its not that much extra work, you just need to spot weld them on the car or use a jig

+1 for the LCA blocks, they would have a fair lateral load under heavy cornering esp if you hit a pothole or rut. They are harder to do cos of the chassis rail & bush housing clearance