Suspension bushes

[Silverbullet]

I'm trying to find urethane replacements for every piece of rubber under my wagon, what's going to be the best way to find everything I need?

I've looked through eBay, Nolathane and Superpro websites and found conflicting/confusing information (doesn't help when they lump all MY and L series parts together in the same category) So far I can only find lower control arm bushes and sway bar bushes. Oh and something called "strut bar to chassis F" bushes but I have no idea what they are. The only rear trailing arm bushes I've found so far are the wrong diameter (30mm OD? my old ones are around the 26-27mm mark) Superpro have a rear diff mount bush but it says original shell must be removed? Does that mean you throw the shell away or is it re-used? Control arms and trailing arms look like they'll be two halves pressed in from either end. I could go into the local parts place and ask if they can find what I can't but I can see the look of confusion on their face now, as is always the case with these cars

Help required

[RSR 555]

Hey Sam, I replaced the radius rod bushes in honeycomb and I think they (Nolathane) called them "strut bar to chassis bush" but would need to double check.

[justincase41]

You may have to go genuine with most of the bushes as the aftermarket suppliers only appear to do the common ones like the swaybar bushes, and the strut bar to chassis bush. Make sure you also measure the diameter of your sway bar as they did come in a couple of different diameters therefore you don't want to order the incorrect bush diameter.

I'm currently after bushes as well and not having much luck.

[z1000st]

Super Pro bush SPF 3005K is the diff pinion to cross member bush which fits my '91 L series. The steel outer bush is removed and binned. Bit of a drama to push the poly one in but lots firmer than the original when finished. I used a long bolt with large washers ( sort of like press plate setup) Once it starts to go in you can push it the rest of the way with your fingers. Replaced the trailing arm bushes at the same time so big difference. Super Pro does a kit of those also but you leave the outer bushes in place. Starting on the front end soon.

[Silverbullet]

Thanks guys, so you do throw the shell away on the diff hanger bush, thanks z1000st.

Looks like all the bushes I haven't sourced yet are no longer available genuine either Deary me not looking great! Well so far I've sourced front and rear control arm/trailing arm bushes, radius rod bushes (thanks for clearing up the nomenclature on that one Paul ) and the diff mount bush. All I really need still is the bushes that go between the moustache bar and the chassis mounts. Looks like I might be making my own out of solid urethane or maybe I can get something from the moulding and castings shop to pour them.

The bushes inside my torsion tube (at either end) look a bit tired but there's no way I could replace them so I guess they have to go back in as they are. And the weird flat looking rubber mounts between the torsion tube and chassis look ok still so I'll just clean them up and re-use. Gearbox and engine mounts well I'll sort that out when I get there, genuine will be the way (If I can find any!)

[El_Freddo]

You'll still find engine and gearbox mounts, genuine I'm not so sure about though. Ask FROG!

Check out the moustache bar/diff hanger, those bushes *could* be about the same as the diff hanger - you might be able to work something out using that bush.

Cheers

Bennie

[FujiFan]

Super Pro bush SPF 3005K is the diff pinion to cross member bush which fits my '91 L series. The steel outer bush is removed and binned. Bit of a drama to push the poly one in but lots firmer than the original when finished.

+1
This can also be done with the "moustache bar" using same part# as above!

[Silverbullet]

Okay great, that's a big help thanks FujiFan! I thought those bushes looked similar, never really thought they'd be the same.

[RSR 555]

Looks like all the bushes I haven't sourced yet are no longer available genuine either Deary me not looking great! Well so far I've sourced front and rear control arm/trailing arm bushes, radius rod bushes (thanks for clearing up the nomenclature on that one Paul ) and the diff mount bush. All I really need still is the bushes that go between the moustache bar and the chassis mounts. Looks like I might be making my own out of solid urethane or maybe I can get something from the moulding and castings shop to pour them.

No worries Sam and yes I'm 99% sure the rear diff hanger bushes are the same as the moustache bar ones.

The bushes inside my torsion tube (at either end) look a bit tired but there's no way I could replace them so I guess they have to go back in as they are. And the weird flat looking rubber mounts between the torsion tube and chassis look ok still so I'll just clean them up and re-use. Gearbox and engine mounts well I'll sort that out when I get there, genuine will be the way (If I can find any!)

Torsion bar ones may be a bit tricky but maybe still available from Subaru??

Engine and gearbox mounts are available from Ebay USA

[Silverbullet]

Good god what a nightmare this has turned out to be!

First off, to fit the Nolathane bushes you need to remove the old shells which I have managed to do today by cutting 2 slots opposite each other, bending the sides in a bit, and smacking the ever loving crap out of them with a suitably sized scrap socket and a BFH. All of them fought till the very last, took nearly an hour each.

Next, fit up the new bushes; The front lower control arm inner bushes (Nolathane 45491) are a perfect fit on the diameter, crush tube is the right length. Fit them up to the crossmember on car and they are waaay too wide! The 2 flanges at either end make the whole assembly at least 2mm too wide, no way they are going in since the urethane can not squish down that much. These need to be faced down on the lathe.

Next, rear trailing arm bushes (Nolathane 46215, I find it weird this kit comes with enough bushes to do 4 trailing arms ) Completely the wrong diameter. My trailing arms with old shells removed are 28.5mm internal (same is front control arms) these bushes are 30-something. Crush tubes also the wrong length, too long by about 2mm. Thinking I will get another front control arm kit and make that work on the rear trailing arms.

Also, the Super-pro diff hanger bush is one solid piece with a flange at both ends...how are you supposed to get that in? Just ram it through and the flange squishes down out of the way?

Un-related but freezing my wheel bearings made them no easier to tap in, I was hoping to have to wheels back on the car this weekend

[RSR 555]

Also, the Super-pro diff hanger bush is one solid piece with a flange at both ends...how are you supposed to get that in? Just ram it through and the flange squishes down out of the way?

yep.. just use some grease (usually comes with the kit) on the outside and try to push it through as square as possible, then the last bit you can just knock in with that FBH

Un-related but freezing my wheel bearings made them no easier to tap in, I was hoping to have to wheels back on the car this weekend

This is strange because I can tap them in without freezing them and using just a small amount of CRC but you need to have them very square. Freezing them makes them shrink slightly which helps them slide in. How long were they in the freezer for?

[Silverbullet]

They were in the freezer 4 hours, plenty cold enough I would have thought. Tried tapping one front bearing in with my new bearing driver set and it stopped moving about 3mm of the way in. Didn't want to hit any harder. I've heard of heating up the housing and freezing the bearing, but since them being cold wasn't any better than not-cold, I didn't think heating up the housing was going to do the trick Anyway I may get access to a hydraulic press some time this week, I'll just wait till then and do it properly rather than risk damaging something.

[z1000st]

When I replaced the diff hanger bush I used a long bolt and nut with 2 large washers through the mount and bush. Tighten nut and bush presses into the mount. Used plenty of supplied lube and by the time it had pushed in 20mm the load had gone off the nut/bolt setup. Pushed in the rest with fingers and then - more lube - pushed the inner bush into place. Bit of a drama to keep all square initially but that's all. FBH is no help as it would just bounce back, probably into your face. Ouch +

[El_Freddo]

I've only ever replaced bearings with a hammer and a steel rod on a bench or in the car.

It can't be that hard, are you sure you're not being over cautious?

Also I use the half bush kits. They've worked well for me when I've used them. You don't have to get the shell out to fit the bush.

All the best with it! If you were closer I'd be keen to come over to help out/have a gander at what's going on

Cheers

Bennie

[RSR 555]

FBH is no help as it would just bounce back, probably into your face. Ouch +

LOL yes hammers should come with warning stickers.. Please do not use this tool if you have no idea how to use it

[Silverbullet]

I've only ever replaced bearings with a hammer and a steel rod on a bench or in the car.

It can't be that hard, are you sure you're not being over cautious?

Also I use the half bush kits. They've worked well for me when I've used them. You don't have to get the shell out to fit the bush.

All the best with it! If you were closer I'd be keen to come over to help out/have a gander at what's going on

Cheers

Bennie

Over cautious? Maybe...But I've tried about 3 times putting a single front bearing in, every time it ends up going crooked and is impossible to correct with a hammer/block of wood. I dented one of the sealed bearing seals accidentally and stopped myself before I destroyed it completely. Never fear! If I can't get near my friends shed with his hydraulic press there's always the fly press at work...

I must have weird trailing arms, maybe a quirk of the earlier dated cars? Rear trailing arm bush is 28.5mm OD on mine, and none of the Nolathane trailing arm bushes listed are that size. I did have to remove the old shells for the front control arms, also 28.5mm OD. All good now, I'm using a front control arm kit on the rear.

[RSR 555]

Hey Sam, does your bearings have seals on them? If they do, then I'd personally pull off one side (the one the goes inside to the spacer tube) of the seal and would recommend you pack these bearings with more grease. I've found over the years that these bearings with seals on them, tend to have less grease in them and don't last that long unless you add more grease.

As for the bushes, I'm hoping to replace the ones in honeycomb soon, so I'll let you know what I find in mine.

[Silverbullet]

Hey Sam, does your bearings have seals on them? If they do, then I'd personally pull off one side (the one the goes inside to the spacer tube) of the seal and would recommend you pack these bearings with more grease. I've found over the years that these bearings with seals on them, tend to have less grease in them and don't last that long unless you add more grease.

As for the bushes, I'm hoping to replace the ones in honeycomb soon, so I'll let you know what I find in mine.

Well that could have been a good idea, only just saw this now having just returned from pressing all the bearings in Well if you are right, by the time these front bearings fail I'll have a press of my own, it would be a weekend job to replace them again On the plus side, all the bearings are in! Even the rears which were quite complicated compared to the front ones. I was glad that in the new rear tapered bearings both outer races were one piece, spacer omitted and the inner races had half a spacer sticking out of them on the inside, inner spacer also omitted. This isn't really the right thread but the wheels will be back on the car this week, it's gonna roll so smoooooth

[RSR 555]

Can't wait to see the silverbullet on the road

[Silverbullet]

Digging up a bit of an old discussion, only just today got around to trying the Super pro rear diff hanger bush install. I swear it is not possible to install that thing as it comes in the packet It says to leave the old shell in; I can tell you that is rubbish to start with. With the old shell in there the bore is about 4mm smaller than the outside of the bush. No way was that going in.

Secondly after removing the old shell it was impossible to press the bushing in with those two huge flanges on either end. Trying to force it in with the press resulted in the bushing bulging out before going *ping* slipping out from between the two parts and flying across the room. Multiple times. In hindsight I think the only way to to it would be with a long bolt so it can't pop out like mine did. I ended up grinding half the flange off one end and got it in eventually.

Still got two more of those buggers left, on the moustache bar Think I'll chuck them up in the lathe at work and slice them in half with a sharp parting off blade. What is the point of one piece bushings anyway?

/rant