The ***ALL NEW*** AUSubaru.com.au Forums

L. Series. Has anyone got any feedback on a l series with a 2inch body lift, with3 inch strut lift.....therorticaly it would only equate to a 1 inch suspension lift.

I am thinking I'll do this on my L series. A 2inch body lift all round was good, so I can't imagine a extra inch on the shocks would produce much more camber?

Thoughts/experiences?

My vortex has a 2 inch front and back strut lift, only the crossmember was lowered 2 inches so the EJ22 would fit. I have no problem with camber, it was just a bunfight to get the front struts back in.

You won't have a problem with camber as long as the blocks have the right offset.

this is how my vortex sits with the strut lift



TOONGA

Thanks mate I got 2 2inch lift kits laying around I mod the struts block to 3inchs....that is a nice vehicle you got there

You'll chew through drive shafts like no tomorrow - but if you're still keen go for it, swapping strut lift is relatively easy - this is why owners of the EJ series vehicles do it, and they can get away with it due to the wider wheel base - less angle on the CV joints and the AWD shares the driving load between all four wheels rather than just two.

Cheers

Bennie

Really? A 1" suspension lift will do that? I thought you could get away with 2" before this starts to become a problem.

Brumby Kid wrote:Really? A 1" suspension lift will do that? I thought you could get away with 2" before this starts to become a problem.

We're talking a difference of one inch between the engine/gearbox crossmember/rear subframe and the struts/rear shock assemblies. My "all round" three inch lift and springs has a one inch height difference between crossmembers and struts, CVs go ok. But add another inch to the struts and you'll definitely be in trouble!

You can get away with the 2 inch in EJs due to their wider body/track width - the EJs run a longer shaft which in turn means less angle on the CVs. Make sense?

Cheers

Bennie

pzs wrote:Thanks mate I got 2 2inch lift kits laying around I mod the struts block to 3inchs....that is a nice vehicle you got there

Thanks Ive still got a bit to do before jetcar beach ready

El_Freddo wrote:You'll chew through drive shafts like no tomorrow - but if you're still keen go for it, swapping strut lift is relatively easy - this is why owners of the EJ series vehicles do it, and they can get away with it due to the wider wheel base - less angle on the CV joints and the AWD shares the driving load between all four wheels rather than just two.

Cheers

Bennie

under the front of my vortex 2 inch strut lift + engine crossmember, no gearbox or radius plate blocks.



under the rear of my vortex with just the rear shock spacers.



Remembering that the vortex is built on the "L" chassis I have had no problems with my CV shafts and Ive had this set up for over 20000 km (two oil changes at least) I know that RSR has had 3 inch strut lifts, 2 inch crossmember blocks and one inch gearbox blocks. He told me thats what I should do to jetcar but funds are very tight still

TOONGA

I found myself staring at the rear end of a modern small 4WD type thing that had CV shafts on the rear, in envy of it's completely neutral dead level driveshaft angle! The angle on the old Subies is a real PITA.

I'll have to get some pics of Ruby Scoo's rear end...

What do your fronts look like Toonga?

Cheers

Bennie

front shaft is shown in first picture Bennie

TOONGA

TOONGA wrote:front shaft is shown in first picture Bennie

Yeah sorry mate, didn't see that the first time around! I'm going to pin that on the late night!

As for your angles, the front looks about the same as Ruby Scoo's, the rear is definitely on a sharper angle than my rear end without much weight in the back.

I'll have to get some pics to compare

Cheers

Bennie

TOONGA wrote:

Here's my pic to compare with the above:

TOONGA wrote:

My L's rear end:



This is on a 3 inch lift body and struts, with 2 inch gearbox spacers.

Cheers

Bennie

Toonga.....what rears shocks are you running, I note you have adj. coil over shocks

Silverbullet wrote:I found myself staring at the rear end of a modern small 4WD type thing that had CV shafts on the rear, in envy of it's completely neutral dead level driveshaft angle! The angle on the old Subies is a real PITA.

Wind the back suspension down and they go level on the back. Fronts are most likely always going to have some angle.

Regards

Doug

They are MX5 / Miata front coil overs

they probably looked like this when new.

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... d=gXNsn4Mg

I got them when I was working at a wrecker in Perth they were on a front cut and if I hadn't grabbed them, they would've been crushed with the reast of the stuff that wasn't needed.

I had them on my brumby they were too rigid, but work really well on the vortex as it has more weight in the rear than the brumby.

This is how they were installed on the brumby.

showpost.php?p=166246&postcount=593

showpost.php?p=166247&postcount=594

TOONGA

Paul (RSR55) has mentioned on facebook running with a set of commodore air adjustable shocks without a spring in the mix. Apparently the shock works as a spring - although I've always thought they were meant to work in conjunction with a spring...

Keen to get a reply on that question from Paul. Also keen to give this a go, just need to know exactly which model to use.

Cheers

Bennie

Bennie, is that photo of your rear diff mounting currently what you are running.
There is a simple mod to get rid of those "grader blade" problems with the rear mounting bar.

tambox wrote:Bennie, is that photo of your rear diff mounting currently what you are running.
There is a simple mod to get rid of those "grader blade" problems with the rear mounting bar.

Yeah it is Tambox. Never thought of them as grader blades until I'm getting majorly stuck!

Would like to see what you've got

Cheers

Bennie

Pretty simple.
For 50mm, remove the lift blocks from either end of the bar.
Weld a piece of flat bar as a "fill in" for the center, cut it curved to fit below the existing mounting holes.
Drill the holes 50mm lower, I cut the nut cover off and move it down 50mm as well.
Lets the inner axle joints on the diff act as little wheels in a handy place.
Never damaged anything because of this mod, but I'm sure there will be someone else that can.
There was even a theory about welding little paddles on:), still a theory.

Pretty simple.
For 50mm, remove the lift blocks from either end of the bar.
Weld a piece of flat bar as a "fill in" for the center, cut it curved to fit below the existing mounting holes.
Drill the holes 50mm lower, I cut the nut cover off and move it down 50mm as well.
Put it back without lift blocks.
Lets the inner axle joints on the diff act as little wheels in a handy place.
Never damaged anything because of this mod, but I'm sure there will be someone else that can.
There was even a theory about welding little paddles on:), still a theory.

[img][IMG]http://www.ausubaru.com.au/picture.php? ... ureid=2215[/img][/IMG]