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Hello all,new guy here and im going to try not to make an ass of myself on my first post.Here it goes,i searched but could not find any information regarding the amount of offset needed in the front struts to maintain camber.I have heard that you want to give 7mm per inch of lift to the inside to keep camber correct,can anyone confirm this?I have nearly completed a 4" on my 88 gl,all that is left is the strut spacers but i dont want to fabricate them until i'm sure about this,even when i do get an answer i will still be making them adjustable just in case but i really need to know where to start first.

Firstly welcome to the site.

I've heard of a few people making their own lift kits, a few messed some stuff up along the way, others got it right.

I didn't know there was a part that needed to be sorted out to get the camber correct, my thinking was a block the desired height be placed between the body and all drive components that bolt to the body. But i've never tried to make my own...

Someone here will beable to help you out, PM Subi Won Kenobi, he would probabily be able to help you out on building a kit.

Easiest option would be to buy one of the kits... check out the for sale section in the sticky's above posted items.

Welcome again.

Cheers

there is definetly an offset on the strut top lift blocks in the front..otherwise a massive positive camber will result

dave

Congrats on making your own lift!
7mm per inch of lift seems to be the general rule.
Make them adjustable if you can, well worth the effort.

Make it adjustable by slotting the holes? If so, the lower or upper holes?

I'm curious now

Cheers

yes there must be offset in them.

dont forget to post pix of your creation!!

i was gonna make 1 but a very cheap 1 came up so i brought that insead
well done for makin it tho

7mm per inch of lift seems to be the general rule.
Make them adjustable if you can, well worth the effort

.

Great!!,i thought that was what i heard,thanks

Make it adjustable by slotting the holes? If so, the lower or upper holes?

Yes this is what i plan,i'm basically going to make the spacer a two piece unit with slotted holes to hold the two together allowing adjustable offset,i may also slot the upper mount holes if needed.

dont forget to post pix of your creation!!

No problem,i should be done with the car in a couple weeks,just have to finish the lift,finish converting from auto to d/r,and paint it olive drab.I also made an awesome front pushbar for it and i'm going with redrilled hubs for 6 lug and probably some ssr tires...weee,i may post pics of the kit when finished by itself since i have to take it all apart for painting anyway.And thanks everyone!!

Boobaru wrote:finish converting from auto to d/r,

You just scored some points in my book mate... good move!

Also, that 1inch to 7mm offset rule... which way does the offset go - toward the engine bay or the tyre?

Cheers

What car would it be? (just curious here)
Cheers
AP

This is what I did, took an afternoon with a drill and a grinder.
Will get the plates laser cut next time though.



I've never had them move unexpectedly in the 18 months they have been in service. And the car certainly earns its place in the driveway!

which way does the offset go - toward the engine bay or the tyre?

Inwards at the top toward the engine bay otherwise you tires would be like this \-o-/

Boobaru wrote:Inwards at the top toward the engine bay otherwise you tires would be like this \-o-/

Thanks Boobaru, love the visual you gave too

Cheers

Ok,well i screwed up a little bit.I just lowered my car from the lift to see how it looks now that the lift is basically done.The result is camber like i showed up above in my earlier post.Its not rediculous but it is far from acceptable.My setup has the struts dropped 4 inches and the crossmember dropped 2.5".I did this to get extra clearance for the engine and such.Initialy i thought that the 7mm per inch formula was wrong until the obvious occured to me.The fact that the crossmember doesnt match the strut lift means there is an excessive angle on the control arms causing the camber problem,or my control arms look /-0-\.
I guess i thought of this a little initially but i didnt think it would be this drastic.I have no room with this setup to move the strut tops in sooo...My question is-dont alot of you guys lift the struts beyond the amount you lower the engine and trans?if so what do you do.I'm not totaly opposed to lowering the crossmember more but i'm considering making adjustable control arms,moving the control arm mount hole out or gettin a cam bolt for it.Only problem with lengthening the control arm i see is the cvs not having enough slip to fit and my tranny is out so i cant find out either : (

did a bit of expirement on a wheel aligner today.every 7mm = 1 degree .You could try 3" at the crossmember.Some kits run a 2" crossmember with 3" strut tops without any probs.Also a camber kit could help.

Well i redid my front crossmember blocks today by making them the full 4".Upon lowering the car there is still a little camber however the front of the car is basically stripped,the tranny is out no fenders,bumper,radiator,pushbar,ect..so basically i think i have succeeded,looks good to me anyway:D.I included some pics of my strut spacers as well as the car off the lift,notice the cynder block being cleared by the rockers even with the little stock tires still

Looks like you got yourself a good project there Boobaru. Keep the pics flowing of your progress.

Good work.

Cheers

Looks good - did you do the welding?
Keep us updated.
Cheers
AP

Thanks guys,i'll keep the pics coming.Yes i do all my own fabricating..it's my thing.

Oh,BTW i do want a control arm camber kit anyway but i cant find one,where should i look?oh yea and im in the states so aussie parts might be too much for me to get.