Excess movement on rear splines

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 8:35 pm

Hi all,

I picked up an 88 brumby the other day in Ipswich and have been going over it. Just tidying up a few things on it. It has an EA82Turbo with a five speed box and 4wheel disc brakes.

I was picking up a vibration like a tail shaft balance thing but have found that the rear axles have excess play where they slide onto the back of the spline behind the disc rotors on the rear wheels. The one on the drivers side rear is particularly loose... enough I reckon to cause the vibration and also the noise I can hear like a rattle. I pulled the whole thing out including the rear right axle and lower control arm assembly and hub and stuffed the roll pin that goes through the spline in the process.. Got it out on the floor and wondering what to do with it.

Question:- Would you expect there to be wear on the splines there....
Could they be a miss match...When the CV axle is slid onto the spline, there is definetly excess play there..more than I would expect...the CV's seem to be ok.

Any thoughts

Trev

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 8:42 pm

why not take off the DOJ's (shafts between the Hub and Stub Axles then drive it again
shuld just require jacking up and taking pins out then removing them and ull still be able to drive
but if uve already dismatnled hub then that wuld need puttin back in to drive properly

shuld try that and see if this vibrationa and rattling is still there

if thats wt was cuasing it id expect it to be gone if theyre off

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 9:37 pm

I have put the axle back together and will go with your idea, Matatak. I have stuffed up the roll pin anyway...so will have to get some on Monday. Tied up tomorrow..(fathers day) but will continue on that line of thought.

This will eliminate where the vibration is coming from anyway..but still thinking about the slop in the CV to stub axle fit.???

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 9:50 pm

i cant say ive noticed any slop on mine

but eyr try that out and see wts the go

and a cable tie is a cheap substitute roll pin

90brumby · Post by **90brumby** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 1:59 am

subybrumby wrote:I have put the axle back together and will go with your idea, Matatak. I have stuffed up the roll pin anyway...so will have to get some on Monday. Tied up tomorrow..(fathers day) but will continue on that line of thought.

This will eliminate where the vibration is coming from anyway..but still thinking about the slop in the CV to stub axle fit.???

mine had heaps of play on the CV to stub axle it never caused a issue

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 11:05 am

Mines got plenty of play on that spline now. It wore from having a welded diff in the back for a while. It also opened up the DOJ cups a little and theres slop there too. Wasn't a problem til I got AWD. I'm just going to swap the swing arm out with another as I don't want to buy a new bearing for the whole thing and the bearing is interference fit on the shaft.
So, maybe it had a welded diff at some stage?

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 7:52 pm

This is the brumby I picked up from brumbybob last week in ipswich. It has an ea82turbo and a five speed box...bit hard to get any history on the car but performs pretty good. It has this vibration somewhere in the drive train and I'll nut it out. I've been crawling all underneath it and just tidying a few things up like loose fuel lines etc. When I talk about the slop on the rear stub spline...it is definetely pronounced and worse on one side as to the other. The crook side, that is behind the drivers head is where the noise is coming from.

I have access to an MY wagon rolling chassis..so if I remove both rear shafts and the vibration is gone, then there's the problem. I'll just rob the arse end out of the wagon and see if that makes a difference. Brumby bob thought that the ea82T and box were a match out of a vortex..would that be right.?
and the box would appear to AWD...does that sound right do you think...I don't think it has a two wheel drive position...just low and high.
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[ATTACH]396[/ATTACH]

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 11:18 pm

Not sure if I like the 3" lift either...maybe 2" would have been enough..

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Mon Sep 03, 2007 10:17 am

If it's AWD (called FT4WD back then) then it has to be an imported box. The low range should be 1.19 to 1 (thats if it is a D/R box) and the diffs should be 3.7 to 1.

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Mon Sep 03, 2007 5:42 pm

Thanks Phizinza...when I get it on the road again, I'll go into it all further...I take delivery of the rear end out of this blokes MY wagon this Sunday..

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:08 pm

oo i remember seeing a youtube video of this car last week, im pretty sure- lots of gadgets and mods. looked real nice in the vid.

i also have a Q for this thread
i am currently running RWD in my wagon whilst fixing a front cv and i have some bad vibrations coming from the cvs particularly when taking off and there is also a clunk as the clutch goes in or out. i have 3/4 roll pins in as i found out we didnt line one shaft up properly- could this cause the clunk noises as im guessing the vibrations are from having a welded diff in before.
im too scared to take off fast as dont wanna break anything, some one give some re assurerance

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:25 pm

i think its coz ur cars botu to fall apart Subi

neway
do ur cvs have any movement in them
when u put clutch in it takes load off and they move enough to clunk then maybe when clutch comes back out load goes back on and they clunk again (just a thought)
or maybe the new diff has to much backlash in it?

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:55 pm

Yes subi, this is the car that was on you tube. I was about to spend some money on my 91 brumby but when this car came up, (an 88brumby) it was too good to pass up. It had most of the mods that I wanted to do except that it has the ea82turbo and I was thinking of going EJ22 in the 91ute which is totally stock and in excellent condition. There is no doubt that someone has spent a lot of money accessorising this vehicle. The story that was given to me when I bought it was that it was owned by a guy in the Brisbane area who owned a vehicle accessory shop and this was the demo for all the gadgets. It is as the blurb says, full remote locking, electric windows, remote locking rear chequer plate cover, reversing sensors in the rear bumper etc etc etc. 4wheel discs...and so forth....if you walk away from it and push the remote on the key, it winds the windows up and locks itself..cool!! and fresh paint and generally in good order.

However I am getting of topic....the noise in the back is like a rattle..like an inspection plate in the tray is loose. When I climbed all over it, I found that when you grabbed the right rear axle, you could move it up and down vertically on the stub spline and it made the noise I could hear. It certainly didn't feel right and was worse than the other passenger side....I'll replace the axles and stubs with another set and see what I end up with...working the problem..thanks

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Mon Sep 03, 2007 11:08 pm

I doubt the rear shafts are the cause of your vibration. It is more likely the tailshaft has either been built wrong (and it has been built) or it has taken a hit.
Is there a switch for the centre diff-lock? Without that engaged, pulling off the rear shafts will result in no go (but that too can be overcome).

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 5:43 pm

UPDATE

Both rear axles were removed from this ute and the vibration has gone. CV joints behind the disc brakes are obviously flopping about.

A note in the glove box indicate rear setup are disc brakes from an L series. Are the splines different that would allow that movement. I think a trip to the local CV specialist in Toowoomba is in order.

mattl200 · Post by **mattl200** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:15 pm

it should still have MY rear shafts as l series rear disks are a bolt on mod

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 8:49 pm

Yes I hear what you are saying...so the disc brake arrangement bolts onto the backing plate and the stub axle and rear axle should still be MY. Wonder why its loose then?

mattl200 · Post by **mattl200** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:47 pm

dont know mabey the stub on the shaft side is worn

but to change to lseries rear disks all u have to do is unbolt all the drum stuff and bolt on backing plates disks and calipers the shaft is the same

u could swap the rear arm out of your wagon parts car if the bearing is ok
the disks will still bolt up

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 4:30 pm

going to do that...at the moment just running on front axles..

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 1:25 pm

subybrumby wrote:at the moment just running on front axles..

If you've got the rear CV shafts off and are still driving around without flicking any switchs you don't have an AWD gearbox i'm sorry.

Sweet looking brumby though. I had a knocking and clunking noise in my rear (L series). Turned out to be the castle nut on the rear left had started to sheer through the retaining pin, something had shrunk on the axle and the whole hub was sliding on the axle a few mm, enough to make this clunking noise. Tightened up the nut, new retaining pin and problem solved.

Dunno if this is your problem but may be of some use in the future.

Bennie