The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

Hi howdy hello.

I'm Andrew, been a Subaru owner for a while now, had 2 Foresters (03 XS as first car & 01 GT with twinscroll conversion) and just bought a 90 model L series for a daily. Immaculately clean & tidy, no rust, paint is mint & interior has a little wear but generally in great condition. Sounds like lifters are ticking but I'm doing a full fluid flush this weekend so should fix it. Recommended oil for engine, gearbox & diff's? Used Penrite HPR10, Castrol Multitrax & Castrol (?) diff fluid in my other Subie's.

Loving the drive so far, lack of power steering is a bitch but I'll get used to it. No plans for mods but if the engine gives up (250thous km's but purrs like a kitten) I'll go an EJ swap. Will install proper radio because I don't own any cassettes.

I own a Detailing workshop & spend most days working on grubby cars but get a few nice cars every now & again.

I love lamp.

Wow that's a really clean car for 250K's. Was it like that or have you cleaned it at your shop?

Anyway welcome. sry i can't help with the oil info to much. i've always used HPR tho:)

I haven't even touched it yet...don't think there's anything I can do to clean it up any more.

Wow, congrats on a really clean example:)

Holy smick
Great buy that's well tidy

Welcome to the board Andrew thats a nice L you scored there

where abouts in the Southwest are you as I'm based in Australind

From that rock in the background I could guess Albany

TOONGA

Hey Andrew, Tom (pimpreza) at PWRX here, glad you made it over & hopefully we'll have a down southish cruise so we can all catch up........I'll be the bogged one lol.

I promise I'm not following you Tom.

Albany is correct, been here over 2 years, originally from the Blue Mountains.

welcome
Sweet L series mate emasculate condition,
lovely

Hi and Welcome Andrew

Like others have said, that is one smick looking L you got hold of there. EA82s are known for this tick you're hearing and I'd recommend a good quality oil after that flush and with those miles on her, then I'd recommend you use something with a bit higher viscosity like a 20W60. If this doesn't fix the tick then I'd recommend you throw a service kit in your oil pump. The gearbox oil I recommend in the older models is Castrol VMX80, it seems to help with the shifting of gears but due to it's lower viscosity, then I'd recommend earlier than normal changes. As for the rear diff, they are tough little buggers and just the standard 80w90 diff oil (I like Castrol or Motul) is perfect.

Plenty of Power Steering Kits for the L's around at the moment.. with lots of guys changing over to EJ stuff. I'd recommend it if you are planning to put larger rims/tyres or do any offroading.

Cheers,
Paul

Cheers Paul.

Did the oil & tranny flush today + put the car up on the ramps to get a good look underneath. Engine oil was putrid, smelt like hair conditioner & was very dark...replaced with 15/40 Penrite Everyday. Gearbox oil didn't look that old but all replaced now, put in Castrol Multitrax +G70.

Looking underneath I seriously need a pressure clean + new suspension rubbers. Engine mounts look shit & all just needs a good clean before I start fixing anything else.

A hell of a lot of gunk around the oil filter area (this the oil pump?) + some leaking oil from the passenger valve cover. The very loud ticking appears to be coming from there so wouldn't be suprised if there was a problem.

This is my first carby car too so I'm getting my head around it all...so many vacuum lines! Very keen to do a Weber conversion but thinking 38 not 32/36...apparently uses the same adapter? Anyone done it?

the oil filter runs directly off the oil pump the ticking is caused by low pressure in the hydraulic lifters aka HLA (hydraulic lash adjuster) there are a lot of causes the first thing to check is timing belt tension then most people put a kit through their oil pump and I've heard of an o-ring in the rocker arms that gets replaced as well (don't hold me to that one)

the weber 38 has the same base plate holes as 32/36 and the 34ADM so you can use the same adaptor plate.

if you don'y have a service manual this will help

http://rapidshare.com/files/443338198/S ... l_1989.pdf

TOONGA

Cleaned gunk off the oil pump & valve covers...now just wait & watch for leaks.

Also loud ticking seems to disappear when AC is on... I thought the belt was fine but sounds like tension/replace might get rid of it?

Random boredom update.

Added stickers:




Knob from old car:


And the missus called it a Grandpa wagon so got me a present...Nanna blanket & walking stick:

List of things I need to fix:
* Stupid ticking noise...will do timing belts & all gasket/seals possible.
* Squealing rear drums
* Steering rack boot is split.
* Various bushes are old & shit.
* Suspension is getting old.

Things I want to do:
* Webber carb
* Advance ignition timing
* Replace front seats with my old STi RA ones.
* Wire up sub & rear speakers.
* Redrill 6x140 steelies, 16" & run larger tyres, preferrably with no fender trimming.
* 2" lift.
* Make new rear diff mounts.
* EJ swap in a year or so once funds are available.

Here's something you can try, worked well for me in the WRX & many others have done it too....Dump the engine oil & put 4L of diesel in the engine, start the car and let it get up to temp giving it a very light rev every now and then, after about 10-15min dump the oil & put some decent stuff in there, should clean a lot of gunk out. when my daughter had her Leone it would tick it's guts out every time it was ready for an oil change then run fine for a few months.

Might give it a go soon, going to put a can of UEC through it too. Still might do the seals & gasket so I know they are fresh.