EA81 supercharger revamp by Tweety

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Venom
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Post by Venom » Wed Aug 28, 2013 4:35 pm

Get it adjusted at a shop with an exhaust gas analyser?
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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Wed Aug 28, 2013 5:02 pm

idle adjust screw on the EA82T TB's, not to be confused with the fast idle circuit next to it with the big bolt on hex bodied solenoid - for AC on sort of thing.

The idle adjust is tapered at the end, air enters above butterfly, exits not below butterfly in venturi but straight out below. air adjust, no bloody fuel goes through it ! According to the manual, more than half the air for idle goes through this screws air bleed, the other less than half must be via the butterfly inside

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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Wed Aug 28, 2013 6:56 pm

Yeah the screw is just a bypass for the butterfly. Wind it out and it lets more air through making the engine idle faster. Mixtures are set by the ECU and there is no adjustment.
Just make sure your oxygen sensor is less than 80,000kms old and your mixtures should be sweet at idle and cruise.
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
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Subydoug
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Post by Subydoug » Wed Aug 28, 2013 8:07 pm

Tweety, just some suggestions.

I would get some new plugs and start from scratch. Then you can read the plugs and they will tell you how the engine is running. What you'd want to do is put in the new plug, start it up, pull away without letting it idle for too long do a WOT pull up the road (if it can) then pull up and shut the motor off straight away, pull the plug and see what it looks like. Aim of the game is coffee brown, but really you will only want to make sure its not ash white. Black means rich.
You can do the same thing with idle and mid throttle too if you wanted to.

Another thing you can do is If you have a multimeter, you can wire in another point off the o2 sensor and measure the voltage coming out. If you wire it up with some long leads you should be able to put it somewhere where you can see it while you ride. I think from memory that if its above half a volt (0.5v) its lean and below half a volt is rich(I think, someone who's good with there narrow band sensors may need to correct that).

Or failing both of those just take it to a dyno. Most likely they will have the gear to retune it (via fuel pressure and maybe a few other tricks) if necessary. They will definitely be able to help you out with mixture readings though.

Regards

Doug

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Tweety
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Post by Tweety » Wed Aug 28, 2013 8:20 pm

Thanks guys. I think it is the idle screw like Gannon said. A picture of it is in the manual. I'll put the throttle stop screw back to where it was and screw out the big screw till i get the idle I desire.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Tweety trike- EA81 (full reco 2014) 32/36 weber, SPFI manifold, 9.5:1 CR, VW auto.

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Tweety
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Post by Tweety » Wed Aug 28, 2013 8:39 pm

Here it is from the conversion instructions. yes, IAS idle adjusting screw.

Image

well isnt it great that the mixture is set by the ECU. and no points, I have iridium plugs, very little maintenance. Some injector cleaner would be a good investment.

ps Thanks also Doug for your suggestions. looks like I've saved myself from most of those actions.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Tweety trike- EA81 (full reco 2014) 32/36 weber, SPFI manifold, 9.5:1 CR, VW auto.

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tambox
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Post by tambox » Wed Aug 28, 2013 8:57 pm

If you look up the throttle body setup details, it should tell you to set the butterfly to be open by a certain amount. Then use the IAS to adjust your idle speed.
As the computer has no adjusments, that initial butterfly setting will be what the ECU software works from.
That can change the mixtures as well, depends how far out of "set" it is, how much effect it has.
The TPS also has to be referenced to the butterfly opening, even if it is only a switch type TPS.
L serious, still.

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littlewhiteute
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Post by littlewhiteute » Thu Aug 29, 2013 6:05 am

Subydoug wrote:Tweety, just some suggestions.

I would get some new plugs and start from scratch. Then you can read the plugs and they will tell you how the engine is running. What you'd want to do is put in the new plug, start it up, pull away without letting it idle for too long do a WOT pull up the road (if it can) then pull up and shut the motor off straight away, pull the plug and see what it looks like. Aim of the game is coffee brown, but really you will only want to make sure its not ash white. Black means rich.
You can do the same thing with idle and mid throttle too if you wanted to.

Another thing you can do is If you have a multimeter, you can wire in another point off the o2 sensor and measure the voltage coming out. If you wire it up with some long leads you should be able to put it somewhere where you can see it while you ride. I think from memory that if its above half a volt (0.5v) its lean and below half a volt is rich(I think, someone who's good with there narrow band sensors may need to correct that).

Or failing both of those just take it to a dyno. Most likely they will have the gear to retune it (via fuel pressure and maybe a few other tricks) if necessary. They will definitely be able to help you out with mixture readings though.

Regards

Doug
Coffee brown is old school leaded fuel.

Colour of the metal shell should be dark grey, insulator off-white.

Low volts - (0-.4) - lean; high volts - (.7 - 1.0) - rich.
Regards

Gary ;)

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Tweety
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Post by Tweety » Thu Aug 29, 2013 7:30 pm

Ok, no problems now. havent been out there to return the throttle stop back to its position and adjust idle with the bleed screw. But seems simple enough.

I havent got full power yet. Will swap the iridiums for standard plugs and see how it goes then, and reckon a new injector might be the go but at $600 landed here its a bit rich. might see if an injector place will spruce it up a bit.

This really draws to a close this thread. I'd like to thank you all for participating through the install/ordeal/delight/ordeal....lol. thanks to Dean for selling me the SPFI system to.

Seriously- I'd be a fair bit lost without you all.;)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Tweety trike- EA81 (full reco 2014) 32/36 weber, SPFI manifold, 9.5:1 CR, VW auto.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:53 pm

You've come a long way Tony, you should be proud, even if you originally said EFI is not an option!

Yes I'm being "that guy" :p

Cheers

Bennie
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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Fri Aug 30, 2013 7:51 am

Have you got the claimed 30% power increase ?

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Tweety
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Post by Tweety » Fri Aug 30, 2013 10:30 pm

At this stage Steptoe I'd say no. A few observations.

Short test ride revealed much less low down power and acceleration than the
SC. Mid range a little less than the SC but impressive enough. Top end power was way down. In fact Tweety had difficulty getting beyond 100kph.

This SPFI unit apparently was from Alaska. Who knows how long since fuel graced its injector. So me thinks injector cleaner for a couple of thousand kms would be in order.

As for comparison to weber the sPFI in my view is smoother and much smoother than SC. But I'd say this unit isnt running to its full potential. I'd say an injector service form a reputable injector expert would do some good. A new injector is available from the states for around $600 landed here- gulp!

Tomorrow weather permitting a long ride to clean out some cobwebs and get that cleaner in the fuel tank.

Any other suggestions welcome
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Tweety trike- EA81 (full reco 2014) 32/36 weber, SPFI manifold, 9.5:1 CR, VW auto.

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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Sat Aug 31, 2013 7:11 am

Subaru upper engine cleaner :) (follow the directions on the can)...

but drown the throttle body and injector in it... then start the engine and wait for the big clouds of blue smoke.

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sat Aug 31, 2013 8:19 am

can see Disco shake his head at that suggestion .......

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Tweety
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Post by Tweety » Sat Aug 31, 2013 2:33 pm

Well its definately down on power. tried altering the timing. no change. engine wont idle most times. IAS has little effect. could be that solonoid.

booked in at a fuel injector place on wednesday.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Tweety trike- EA81 (full reco 2014) 32/36 weber, SPFI manifold, 9.5:1 CR, VW auto.

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:25 pm

Hopes it's a place that understands non standard applications !

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Tweety
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Post by Tweety » Sat Aug 31, 2013 7:18 pm

Explained the set up and he seemed confident. Will tell him to clean the injector first up and see how it goes.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Tweety trike- EA81 (full reco 2014) 32/36 weber, SPFI manifold, 9.5:1 CR, VW auto.

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sun Sep 01, 2013 7:28 am

do you know if the flapper air flow meter is same as EA82T flapper?

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Post by El_Freddo » Sun Sep 01, 2013 11:57 am

I'm looking forward to the results of the injector work ;)
steptoe wrote:do you know if the flapper air flow meter is same as EA82T flapper?
It's not a flapper. Looks like a Hotwire job, but different to the MPFI Hotwire unit.

Cheers

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Tweety
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Post by Tweety » Sun Sep 01, 2013 1:12 pm

Yeh, what El Freddo said....
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Tweety trike- EA81 (full reco 2014) 32/36 weber, SPFI manifold, 9.5:1 CR, VW auto.

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