Silverbullets' resto: Interior

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Fri Jan 06, 2017 10:38 pm

Yeah it is really annoying! I hate all of those "nickel and dime" parts that can stop a big project dead in its tracks. Seriously, try finding door jamb grommets/conduit online - I'm convinced it is a part that just does not exist and can not be bought aftermarket anywhere. Could your pump seal be custom made? Or is it a type of seal that could be found at places like CBC bearings etc.

Bantum, no pics of the guts of the clock conversion I'm afraid but I can tell you the PCB of the clock I used is about 5mm wider than original. Which meant I had to grind some plastic away around where the clock sits in the instrument cluster to clear the PCB. 2 little slots basically on either side. These aren't visible when it's re-assembled and there's no light bleed through from the little car image/HUD. Then there's a little bracket screwed in place in there to retain the PCB, and gratuitous use of hot melt glue

Post by **Bantum** » Sat Jan 07, 2017 5:19 am

Here ya go :

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/125pcs- ... 39003c9fb4

Don't know if its got what you're looking for though ... :/

Used these on mine : ( also came in the door lock kit )

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AutoLoc-DLOOM-R ... 2237323522

Cheers, Bantum ...

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Jan 07, 2017 8:37 am

I've tried my local bearing joint here. But since it's a 4 or 5mm shaft seal for a centrifugal pump seal they said they'd never seen anything like it and didn't have anything in stock or available in their parts book.

A pool shop might be able to help. I need to investigate this further. On other forums guys have not found a replacement item other than "replace pump", but at ~$130 for a second hand pump it could end up being just the same as what I've got already.

Bantum, those grommets look neat mate! Did you use that flexi hose on your subi? If so drop us a pic pls. It'd be good to see an after market job vs the factory look.

Sometimes in a build, it's all about compromise... Like this story Dad told me from his engine builder yesterday:

Two fellas were looking for an early Holden statesman like their old man had back in the day. Low and behold they found one - and it turned out to be their old man's one! BUT, it now had a 470-something big block fitted. They almost walked away before they found out they guy kept the original engine.

So they purchased the car and the original engine - which needed a rebuild. Enter dad's rebuilder into the picture.
These dudes wanted the car kept so original that when the builder told them they need a new cam shaft they couldn't get their heads around it. They argued that it MUST have the original cam shaft otherwise it wouldn't be the same as when their dad had it, nor would the car be original!

I'm pretty sure they got a new cam shaft. But that mentality is insane - a cam shaft?! Unless it's a stage two or three shaft no one would know without a dyno sheet!

Anyway, keep up the good work SB! If you find the seal I need let me know

Cheers

Bennie

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Jan 07, 2017 9:12 am

Nice story, it's funny how uptight some people get about keeping originality

If I was that builder I'd just slip the new shaft in on the sly and be done with it, they'd never know

I'll keep an eye out for that seal eh

Bantum, it's funny, back when the wiring was still in it's planning stage I did just assume I'd be buying a pack of grommets like in your pic. When I actually got round to doing it though those grommets aren't quite right, yes they pop in the hole for wiring to safely pass through but they wouldn't/couldn't seal around the wires themselves because they don't have the "tail" on them. See pic below...
That corrugated tubing is also exactly what I had in mind - I couldn't find it anywhere other than US ebay for $30 something USD plus $25 shipping for a single piece

Post by **Bantum** » Mon Jan 09, 2017 5:35 am

Posted this on another thread ages ago :

showthread.php?t=22647

Cheers, Bantum ....

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Mon Jan 09, 2017 9:38 pm

That's exactly how I wanted mine to look, I wonder why I couldn't find the bits for it

Makes me want to re-wire all the doors again now

Post by **Bantum** » Sat Jan 14, 2017 8:57 am

Only real tricky bit is getting all the wires to fit through the tube ... :/

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Jan 14, 2017 2:48 pm

I've finally collected most of the bits for my sound system now

Except the head unit which I don't really need yet.

The front speakers you've seen (JL audio C2's) The rear speakers are the same but 4"

The sub I've gone with is a Rockford Fosgate P3 8" shallow mount, with dual 4 ohm voice coils. This little thing is a sweet little unit. It's seriously small but should still punch out some nice bass. I never wanted bone rattling bass so this should be plenty. I'll be wiring up the dual coils for 2 ohms.

My favorite part is the amp - a Clarion XC2510 marine amp. I went with this one because like the sub it is amazingly compact but still has some great features and adjustable everything. It's 700w 5 channels
Specs:
50 Watts × 4 + 200 Watts × 1 Continuous @ 4-Ohms
75 Watts × 4 + 300 Watts × 1 Continuous @ 2-Ohms
150 Watts × 2 Continuous @ 4-Ohms Bridged

Just have to work out what cable it needs to feed it. I will run a dedicated line from the battery (or alternator?) I haven't worked out the cable gauge required yet. It has 2 x 40 amp fuses on the parallel input lines so I guess the amp will be usually running around half that. If it ever pulls more than 80A the fuses will pop (which is good since my alt is only 90A

)

The head unit will be a Sony XAV X100. I've spent many hours looking for a decent mechless, double din touch screen head unit with navigation and all the mod cons. There aren't many options and the ones that do generally have Apple car play only and not Android Auto. These programs connect to your smart phone and the head unit is almost useless without it. Since I hate crapple the ones with car play only were off the list. That left 3 options one of which is over 3 years old and buggy as hell (its French

) and the other has been "coming soon" for 12 months. That left the Sony which has car play and Android auto. Also has some nice features the cheaper ones didn't.

And here's a teaser of where the sub is actually going

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Jan 15, 2017 8:55 am

That sub install will look tops mate. Going to make that whole panel look like one piece right across that side of the cargo space?

And when's the supercharger coming to help haul all this stez gear?

All that stereo talk about amps, watts, rms and bridging loses me. Especially the bridging stuff! Two reasons why I've not got into a sub and amp setup - first one is money and practicality - space and weight; the other is money to get all the gear to make a decent setup, it's never been a priority.

That said I would like a sweet little setup in the RS once it's on the road. I've got a mate that can help me out with it. He won several autonoise contests years ago.

Cheers

Bennie

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sun Jan 15, 2017 8:51 pm

El_Freddo wrote:That sub install will look tops mate. Going to make that whole panel look like one piece right across that side of the cargo space?

And when's the supercharger coming to help haul all this stez gear?

All that stereo talk about amps, watts, rms and bridging loses me. Especially the bridging stuff! Two reasons why I've not got into a sub and amp setup - first one is money and practicality - space and weight; the other is money to get all the gear to make a decent setup, it's never been a priority.

That said I would like a sweet little setup in the RS once it's on the road. I've got a mate that can help me out with it. He won several autonoise contests years ago.

Cheers

Bennie

Starting to think I'll need an SC with all this non-factory junk I'm loading her up with

But I always wanted all the mod cons in this car

And yes the plan is to make up a custom fitted (fiberglass) sub box for that little corner of the boot, blend it into the wheel tub nicely.

Before I started researching the audio gear I also had no clue when it came to what ohms, wattage, speakers etc etc. It's only with hours of reading now I've got some idea, enough to get by at least. I'm not going crazy with the audio stuff, just want something that sounds great because I value the music listening experience very highly

With your RS I imagine it would be much easier, does it have speakers in the back doors? At least a starting point when it comes to fitting speakers. This wagon was never designed to have speakers in the rear doors so it makes fitting them a bit tricky. You don't have to spend huge $$$ either to have something that sounds decent. Alot of head units now have some pretty beefy output already so no need for an amp.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Jan 16, 2017 9:45 am

If you come across an L series sedan they have speaker plates in the rear parcel shelf. These migh help you with the mounting of your speakers in the door.

The next time I'm at m&d's I'll have a look at one I've got in the paddock - you're welcome to them for the cost of postage if you want them.

Cheers

Bennie

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sun Jan 22, 2017 3:22 pm

That's alright I should be able to get by, I've cut the holes in all the doors so just need some MDF speaker mounting rings and modify the door cards.

This weekend I've been working on the boot floor so I can make a start on the fiberglass sub box. The boot/carpet needs to be at it's finished dimensions before I start laying the fiberglass. The floor got the resomat sound deadening treatment, then I cut a piece of 7mm plywood shaped to fit the floor around the wheel tubs to give me a nice flat solid floor surface. The plywood then has some marine grade charcoal heavy duty carpet glued onto it. I still need to put some thicker foam underlay under the plywood to stop it rattling around but so far it looks great

Sound deadening resomat

Plywood and carpet in place

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Jan 22, 2017 11:41 pm

Looks neat mate. The speaker box wrapped in the marine carpet will look tops once it's done

Cheers

Bennie

Post by **Bantum** » Thu Jan 26, 2017 6:07 am

You'll need to 'revitalise' the plastic / vinyl to match the rest of build ...

Post by **Bantum** » Thu Jan 26, 2017 6:14 am

Looking good, although you'll need to 'revitalise' the plastic / vinyl to match the rest of your build ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

pezimm · Post by **pezimm** » Thu Jan 26, 2017 11:06 am

Impressive attention to detail throughout the whole project... It's so satisfying to watch this coming together over time!

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Jan 26, 2017 1:51 pm

Cheers fellas!

I too am enjoying this new found progress, since I sorted out my door wiring grommets.

Bantum - yeah all the plastics will get the VHT vinyl/plastic dye treatment. I've done a few test pieces on the hard plastics and am impressed with the results. The rear seat is getting re-upholstered to match the front seats, and hopefully I can get the back done in the same marine carpet as the boot so when the seat is down flat it looks like one floor

If you like detail you might like this little teaser - I've wrapped my first bit of the loom (under the rear seat, mainly speaker and window wires) hopefully you can see my cable securing system. I've said it once and I'll say it again, I LOVE riv-nuts

Oh and I know this isn't interior related but I just had to post a pic of my newest aquisition - a massive thanks to JP147 for this one.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Feb 18, 2017 4:15 pm

Here's a little progress report for the last few weeks - I've got all the speakers mounted solid in the doors, now have to sort out the door cards to go over the speakers. Not sure what I'm going to do yet but there will be some customization of the door cards.

Also a couple of pics of the beginnings of my sub woofer box for the boot. That wooden thing I threw together wasn't really that great, plus I couldn't think of a way to make the backside of the box so it would be sealed. So I'm going the fiberglass route - using the car itself as the mold for the woofer box

Just got the backside done today with a few layers of chopped strand mat and polyester resin (that stuff stinks!) Should be able to pop it out tomorrow and trim the excess, will probably need one more layer on the inside to make it really solid. I really liked the look of this method as once it's done it looks like it's supposed to be there, and uses up every possible bit of space for the internal volume of the box.

Layers of good masking tape to protect the interior and floor

Then just slather the goo and glass right over the top of it