Brumby build with a difference

purp · Post by **purp** » Sun May 20, 2012 9:59 pm

If the rotor won't fit in the front, you can always use it for the second engine for the tray...

taza · Post by **taza** » Sun May 20, 2012 10:17 pm

Really hope it will fit mate. After all the work you've done you really would want it to fit!

purp wrote:If the rotor won't fit in the front, you can always use it for the second engine for the tray...

Oh YES

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun May 20, 2012 10:28 pm

the second Subaru to impress me (first was GSR 1600 at 100 mph) was a white MY sedan with a definite rotor buzz and zip through both the traffic and gears, unless it was a twin port ?? Never heard one other than a quiet sedate lady driven Brumby with 200 limited sticker on the tailgate

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Sun May 20, 2012 10:41 pm

There will be no buzz, just the bloody annoying rak rak rak that drives you insane

D3V1L · Post by **D3V1L** » Sun May 20, 2012 10:51 pm

rotary in a brumby has been done, ive seen it done, and went like a shower of shit. hope to see another one day

and neil,,,,its brap brap brap,,,,,LOL

rak rak rak is too similar to the dak dak dak of a subaru lmao

davo

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Mon May 21, 2012 9:23 am

niterida wrote:I was referring to making it RWD - but yes I did think that comment was a bit silly when I wrote it

hehehe

What about your rotary forum mates? have they got any pics or info on fitting one??

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Tue May 22, 2012 11:17 pm

That rotor motor will piss you off no end. My mate Shane has one in a nissan wagon what a heap of dog dodo it is to drive, needs full throttle every were

niterida · Post by **niterida** » Wed May 23, 2012 12:23 am

seagull wrote: needs full throttle every were

EXCELLENT

:):D;):p

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed May 23, 2012 7:37 am

seagull wrote:needs full throttle every were

And the problem is what??

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Wed May 23, 2012 10:58 pm

the amount of fuel it uses in 200ks you could run a generator to light your work shop up for a month.

niterida · Post by **niterida** » Wed May 23, 2012 11:38 pm

Good thing it only does 200ks between rebuilds then

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Fri May 25, 2012 12:06 am

LOL, yes that as well

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Sat Jun 02, 2012 10:13 pm

Yawn, tailshaft is here

B00sting · Post by **B00sting** » Sun Jun 03, 2012 11:56 am

niterida wrote:Good thing it only does 200ks between rebuilds then

hahaha! (and this is generally what the population actually believe!)

niterida · Post by **niterida** » Sun Jun 03, 2012 9:35 pm

Well its not looking good. The Rotor is 465mm long once you include the gearbox adapter and remove the PS and Air Cond pumps, AND run an Electric Water Pump to get rid of bulky inlets and outlets. I have 500mm from the gearbox to the radiator support panel so that only leaves 35mm to mount a radiator

I calculated that at most I could move the gearbox back 25-30mm so I could possibly squeeze a radiator in but would then need to mount the fans in front. But then where would I put the Front Mount Intercooler ??

Also the crossmember isn't really being cooperative and would need major reworking to move the motor back another 50mm. As it is the engine mounts are going to be a pain in the butt without making it more difficult moving the engine back.

Now the Subie motor is only 410mm long including all the front pulleys, leaving a good 90mm for a radiator and fans - which is still a bit tight though. Of course that means I don't have to modify the crossmember or make custom engine mounts etc.

So given my limited fabrication skills I would have to say that the rotary idea is just a bridge too far

Of course the fact that I have just bought myself a Liberty RS Turbo wagon has swayed the decision too. I can put all my good bits on the wagon - DCCD gearbox, Brembos, 18's, coilovers, swaybars etc and I still have an EJ22 / 5 speed, 16's, 4 pots etc to go in the Brumby and then maybe in the future when funds are available I can upgrade to STi motor etc for the Brumby. AT least doing it this way keeps the cost and the build time way down.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:31 pm

Bugger, was looking forward to seeing a rotary in a brumby, are you really going to do a twin engine brumby like your signature?
Please correct me if I'm wrong. Differences between STi and non STi.
6 speed gearbox
Brakes
Turbo
Water cooled inter cooler
Tuned differently.

Cheers Cam

niterida · Post by **niterida** » Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:44 pm

Brumby Kid wrote:Bugger, was looking forward to seeing a rotary in a brumby, are you really going to do a twin engine brumby like your signature?

Cheers Cam

Thats the long term plan - got a rusty Brumby shell sitting waiting but it will be 2 NA motors not turbos

Gotta build ths Brumby first, then make a trailer out of the smashed Brumby and then make a car trailer out of a big pile of steel I have left over from my old business and I am still trying to buy a rusty hatchback Torana from around the corner............

Check back in about 10yrs

B00sting · Post by **B00sting** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 4:56 pm

How about W2A instead, and a tray mounted radiator?
Would that give you enough room?

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Wed Jun 06, 2012 10:02 pm

wasted the rottor & gave it a head start as well
Pifft the 207 is killa hahahahah

niterida · Post by **niterida** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 4:52 pm

I have made a small breakthrough

Bolted all the suspension and crossmembers on to the chassis rails and placed the body over the chassis. Now everything looks like it is in the right place until I put a wheel and front guard on only to discover everything is at least 50mm too far forward !!

So I need to move the engine crossmember mounting points back by 50mm on the chassis and I may be able to squeeze the rotor in after all

But that also means I need a new floor because the WRX one I was going to use is now going to be 50mm too short at the front