Since not been working I've pretty much spent nearly 8 hours a day working on the wagon instead
So the complete re-wire which I thought was going to take months will only be weeks instead. Since last post I've got a basic loom down to the tail end now i.e tail lights, wiper+washer, fuel sensor plus a few other things AND a dedicated power feed down to the back for some accessory sockets.
The peg board came in handy again but this time I strung up the old tail end loom including the part that is inside the tailgate and the bit that goes under the back end to the LH tail lights, and just used the old loom to get the length and positioning right for the new wires. Then I took the new wiring down and laid it out in the car, fished the tailgate bit through all the bodywork (nightmare
) and I have spent all today connecting up the rear loom section to the front end section by the drivers right knee. The factory loom had 2 big connectors here, but I don't think I'll bother and just have it all one piece. I'm thinking the only big connector I'll have will be for the engine bay section as I'll need to cut all these to fit the firewall grommet.
Also the drivers footwell needed some attention as the old sound deadening tar had turned to goo
the last year I was driving the car the rear passenger door leaked and every rainy night there would be a puddle in the drivers footwell; parked on a slope. Getting all that crap off was a total nightmare, heating it up just turned it to treacle and gummed up every scraping tool I could find, wouldn't chip off since it was too gummy. Spent 2 days scraping away at it and finished it off with a wire wheel and just scrubbed everything back to bare metal and resprayed it. Thankfully all the other original tar was brittle enough to chip off.
So now I've got a nice clean base to put the new sound deadener on.
This is some of the new stuff on the roof, "Resomat" which is cheaper than "Dynamat" but what all BMWs and ADF vehicles use supposedly
Here's my under-dash wiring at the moment. Interior fuse box is 95% done and I've got most of the dash wires in there, plus everything for the brake lights etc.
The new rear loom even still fits in the original cable clips!
Next is to start connecting everything up in the tail end!
Hadn't heard of them before today, hopefully there is a small sized one that will fit in the stock spot. Also thinking seriously about a dual battery setup, but with the second batt in the back of the car. Can't find any solid information or examples of this though, all the dual battery setups on youtube etc have the second batt in the engine bay...would it be okay to have the battery in the boot with a long run of heavy cable for charging? and another for earth return, with the changeover relay in the engine bay. If it's the boot I'm thinking custom battery box sunk into the floor so I don't loose any storage space 
Haven't looked properly or measured anything yet though.
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Could have put it where the jack usually goes in the engine bay but not now its painted and I think some A/C components go there as well. It is still just a dream at this stage after all 
:D
) and have put about 5 coats of paint over it and "kill rust" enamel in the boot, I don't want this to rust again! Next comes the sound deadener and after that, waterproof underlay and new carpet. I saw the head lining today and it looks absolutely fantastic 
One of the relays I wired in when I first started the wiring was making a loud buzzing sound when energized (key ON position) Some research told me that usually means it's a bad ground. It would buzz with the power probe clipped onto the bolt holding the ring terminal to the body, but not with the ring terminal floating in mid air with the probe clipped to it...re did the ring crimp (and solder this time) cleaned the bolt, cleaned paint off the bodywork...still buzzing. Pulled the signal and earth terminals out of the relay socket, plug directly to relay, no buzzing 
