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RSR 555 wrote:Awesome news James

I too like the finish on sandblasted heads (and block for that matter) but really have to make sure you really, really wash them out well, as that fine little grit gets into every little hole.

Thats why I use sugar . Bloody sticky as all hell but if it gets where it shouldnt, it dissolves in a bucket of water. Also a little bit gentler then sand. Similar to beads.

Regards

Doug

DO BOTH HEADS!!!
Murphy's law mate! I can just about garuntee that something will happen to the side you don't touch.

Cam

To clarify...both sides have been off, cleaned up, lapped and reinstalled. The right side just got a little extra treatment that's all.

Hey guys, a couple of questions today.

I'm buying new hydraulic lifters to install in the engine. Should these be primed before install? Am I right to suggest you would just soak them in engine oil for a day or so?

My other question is, when the engine is completely reassembled and put in the car, will I need to follow some oil priming process before I start her up? And is there any 'running in' procedures I should follow with a rebuild like this?

Thanks in advance!

James

I got these hydraulic lifters today from Auto One. Nason brand, $8.60 each. [ATTACH]4004[/ATTACH]

That is so cheap, someone has found a stock pile of things and marked 'em down to sell perhaps...or makin' them in China and sharing the savings with us

Was there a NASON part number on the box ?

Amazing hey. There is one number on the box: RHT6400

same number REPCo uses ! Which could imagine stands for Repco Hydraulic Tappet NNNN

eighteen dollars each retail there, was your eight bucks a misprint ?

jims wrote:I'm buying new hydraulic lifters to install in the engine. Should these be primed before install? Am I right to suggest you would just soak them in engine oil for a day or so?

Yep, soak them overnight with them standing upright (pushrod divot pointing up) and I'd recommend you use light/thin oil.

Edit: Sorry was thinking of EA81. Just make sure they are upright.

jims wrote:My other question is, when the engine is completely reassembled and put in the car, will I need to follow some oil priming process before I start her up? And is there any 'running in' procedures I should follow with a rebuild like this?

I would make sure you have oil pressure before connecting your coil/dizzy/points. You may find you it better to use 'run in' oil (I use the cheapest diesel oil I can find) and dump this after 500/1000kms.

Can't remember, did you use new rings? if so, there should be a "running in process" by the manufacture, if not have a look in the gregory's manual, as the rings will need to 'bed in' correctly.

Steptoe, definitely not a misprint. They quoted me over the phone and charged me in store the same price.

Thanks Paul. How so I make sure I have oil pressure? Just make sure the check light doesn't come on? I did put new rings in but they didn't come with any run in instructions. I'll go a google I guess and see what I can find out.

Just check that the 'oil pressure' light comes on when you first turn the ignition on, then watch it while you crank the engine over (remember to disconnect dizzy or coil) and then just wait for the light to go out, this is when you have oil pressure. Another option is to fit a oil pressure gauge, but this is not necessary.

Running in the rings will require you to NOT keep the revs at one speed for the first 500 to 1,000 kms. I'm sure you'll find some stuff on the net but I'd suggest you grab a copy of the gregory's manual (I'm 99% sure there's copy's on here somewhere) and follow what they say in that.

steptoe wrote:same number REPCo uses ! Which could imagine stands for Repco Hydraulic Tappet NNNN

You've really got it in for this repco number thing haven't you Jonno?!!

That said, I totally got ripped on a uni joint last week - but I needed it. Still pissed at the price though!

RSR 555 wrote:Running in the rings will require you to NOT keep the revs at one speed for the first 500 to 1,000 kms. I'm sure you'll find some stuff on the net but I'd suggest you grab a copy of the gregory's manual (I'm 99% sure there's copy's on here somewhere) and follow what they say in that.

From memory - first run, 10 times on throttle gently then off again to help load and unload the rings.

Then for the first 1000km vary your revs contantly, the next 9000 don't stick to the same revs for anymore than 5 minutes.

Drop oil at 1000km, then after the next 5000km then you can go to the usual 10k km intervals if that's how you operate - which is how I operate, otherwise I'd be forever buying oil!

Cheers

Bennie

Nice price indeed then

I have had to prime an EA81 by using oil filter off, see a hole to put clear pvc hose into, funnel atop, shove oil down and crank over by hand just to prime the pump and pick up , then all was fine. The EA82 pump layout is not the same on the filter face but can't hurt to fill the filter slowly, let it soak in, fill and spill as spin it on.....just thought if a new filter had a tube added to its back end prime from it may work if needed.

There is running in oil about that is for idle only - no driving ! I seem to recall it is four stroke mower oil ?? My new ring/piston/bore bed in procedure is make sure no oil or water leaks, timing OK , then take for a drive , vary speeds up and down cruising at each speed, up down, then take her up a nice hill or mountain, torquing rather than revving. Had one at 100mph before the night was out, on new rings only job. 1989 that was, motor still runs nice - 225psi in all six pots

The other thing I was going to add about priming - I got one of my old cam belts and ran the oil pump from a cordless drill to prime all areas of the engine before installing the cam belts. Of course you need to have the engine oil and new filter in place to do this!

I did this just to give me piece of mind in the event it didn't fire up straight away. Also if it is MPFI prime the fuel line a couple of goes so you know there's fuel at the injectors

When it all fires up don't use the throttle until oil pressure is built up - give it 15 to 20 seconds if you've primed it for this to occur!

Cheers

Bennie

Thanks guys!

I'll do the drill and oil pump trick I think. So will this run oil right through the system? How long should I do it for?

More questions.

Am I correct to say, because the flywheel only bolts on one way, that when you rotate the flywheel so that the three timing marks align with the pointer in the blelhousing, that all four cylinders are in the middle of their stroke?

Just thinking about this in relation to installing the timing belts, as I didn't note what position the pistons were in when I put the engine back together.

as you need to turn engine one revolution between belt install me thinks only one side at a time is in no valve spring tension zone at a time, and the pistons are about half way down, half way up both sides I think ???? at the threee lll marks on pointer

Well, I got ripped off by REPCO as mine too were Nason (P/N RHT6400) at about $18.00 each.
I spent a couple of hours all up trying to prime the lifters in every possible position and eventually gave up. I tried an oil can forcing oil in, a syringe (spelling) and managed to get 2 of them fairly hard and ended up putting them into the engine as is. I also tried imersing them in oil but all to very little success.
I made a bit of noise on first start up but then went all quite.

jims wrote:More questions.

Am I correct to say, because the flywheel only bolts on one way, that when you rotate the flywheel so that the three timing marks align with the pointer in the blelhousing, that all four cylinders are in the middle of their stroke?

Just thinking about this in relation to installing the timing belts, as I didn't note what position the pistons were in when I put the engine back together.

Never gave it much thought but I think the the 3 little marks are 90deg from TDC, so the pistons would be halfway down the cylinders. I'm pretty sure the pistons won't hit the valves but better to be safe than sorry. Follow the fitting instructions in the worksho manual and you should be fine.

jims wrote:I'll do the drill and oil pump trick I think. So will this run oil right through the system? How long should I do it for?

It should do. At the very least it will prime the oil pump and get the oil into the important places - mains and big ends. I'd do it for 5 minutes - don't go overboard on the speed. Steady is better than super fast!

steptoe wrote:as you need to turn engine one revolution between belt install me thinks only one side at a time is in no valve spring tension zone at a time, and the pistons are about half way down, half way up both sides I think ???? at the threee lll marks on pointer

That'd be correct Jonno. The pistons are sitting at the half way mark in the cylinder. Turn ONE crank rotation between belts - this lines up the other side in it's no tension zone. Pretty good system - probably could have been done with one belt, something they fixed up on the EJ...

Cheers

Bennie