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Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 6:49 pm
by steptoe
Funny you mention your difference with their bits, as I got some Monroe shocks (silly me thought MW was Aussie owned !! ) for my Brumby. One set of rears needed me to squish suspension to fit shocks at their longest fit, reducing bump stop gap from factory 20mm down to about 15mm. Should not complain as they were $8 each !
Did you give them your Tweetys VIN just to trick 'em ) ?:

Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 7:53 pm
by Tweety
VIN number- good one. should have done it. have googled the part number etc etc and even though the part is close to a Nissan pick up in USA- they are different. not worth the worry. have moved on.
munro used to make air shockers. in the 70's it was common to use tham and pump up the rear end until your shocker went through the floor....

Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 11:47 am
by steptoe
Tweety wrote:The idle sensor housing has to be turned 180 degrees.

There is a coolant hose that is in the way. El Freddo's advice was to use a piece of bent copper tube, to get around the dizzy and two short bits of hose. Worked a treat.
Sorry to dredge this up again ....was looking at mine again yesterday especially at the little appendage pipe sticking towards the dizzy - are you saying you left it poking out, no need to heat it and bend it to the left, right or make it droop ?
I am retainng the EA81 dizzy which has the vac can pointing right at thermostat region...thinking EA82 spfi dizzy vac can is closer to the front or water pump side when installed on EA81 , yeah ?
Just trying to avoid disabling beast for longer than necessary once pulled to bit....gets a little difficult scrounging bits at this time of year !!

Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:23 pm
by Tweety
Jonno the SPFI dizzy is larger than the stock EA81 dizzy. The SPFI dizzy doesnt have a vacuum.

The pipes on the top of the block and out of the eA82 SPFI thermostat housing dont need to be modified. All you do is attach two short pieces of hose to them. Between the hoses place a piece of bent copper pipe into an "W" shape so it goes around the dizzy. See pics.

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Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 6:36 am
by steptoe
OK, pictures and 1000's of words, reckon that will etch in brain ...... I think the guys in the US have said some spfi were vac advance, others not, looks like yours is non vac advamce - just like mine at the moment, has the can just not the function. Part of why I am going spfi inlet was to gain a vac advance port assuming they even had it was my mistake. A common thing on old school LPG conversions was to disconnect vac advance anyway ! I reckon my can is gonna hit the thermostat end pipe , may just remove the vac can and be done with it. I do have a plug in a sensor hole on the other side of the thermostat - this may get some custom pipe fitting one day if I can find a suitable vacuum source. Thanks for speedy and detailed pics Tony :)

Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 9:23 pm
by steptoe
in theory - resolved! drill out pipe, tap to 1/8" BSPT (oil pressure switch size), screw in a male/female brass elbow, seal with a bit of super dooper sealing threebond and then add a suitable sized barbed fitting pointing fitting downwards - in theory .....

Posted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 8:07 am
by TOONGA
steptoe wrote:in theory - resolved! drill out pipe, tap to 1/8" BSPT (oil pressure switch size), screw in a male/female brass elbow, seal with a bit of super dooper sealing threebond and then add a suitable sized barbed fitting pointing fitting downwards - in theory .....
Drilling said hole where?

if it is in the manifold you will always have full advance ... in the bottom of the throttle body will give the proper vacuum needed to get advance with acceleration.

TOONGA

Posted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 12:48 pm
by El_Freddo
Steptoe, I've only ever seen non-vacuum SPFI setups.

As for your vacuum port being in the way, thought of turning the dizzy around so it's not? I realise this will mess with the dizzy position locking bolt arrangement but I'm sure you could come up with something!

I hope we're talking about the same thing!

Cheers

Bennie

Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 6:14 am
by steptoe
You speed readers ......:( :( ......it is the water pipe at the thermostat housing part of the EA82 inlet manifold that mates up with the water pipe outta the top of the block that looks like it will interfere with the vac can itself like the pics of Tonys above indicate. Word on a better forum indicates this :p
I think the term is ported vacuum that is needed. I recall single barrel Strombergs on early Fords - there was supposedly a difference between auto and manual transmissions - one got its vacuum just above the throttle butterfly, the other just below ...???.
This throttle body has three port pipes - be nice if at least one worked !

Posted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 7:42 pm
by Tweety
so after "ok" please explain?

anyway today I got my two working TPS's in the mail from Douglas of British Columbia. got one installed and working well. waiting for a brake calliper before testing.

Posted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 8:28 pm
by steptoe
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You can see where I shoved in a bung to plug MKI and II's hole. I bent the vac can doodle down to clear things a little, and MKIII uses the factory hose no dramas, from the top of the block :)

images are good :) . This is mark III , as the first in the side 90 degree was gonna be a bit odd and likely collide with something, MK II was a big and bulky 45 degree adaptor in 1/8" BSPT stuff and it did bloody collide with the vac can of the EA81 dizzy and its pipe. Then after some fresh air, another angle, I saw a tall boss with no use to me thread in it. Drilled it out to reduce its height, finsiked off with a hacksaw and file, got the trusty NPT 1/8" taper tap to work in the thick stuff and whacked in the MF 90 degree baby, added the 8mm barb and Bobs....... While the brain was in good mode, saw the vac supply boss could be drilled out to NPT to take BSPT of brake booster vac supply barb (or maynbe Fuji use NPT ??) saves on brake booster hose running to the left hand side of the manifold. Got the old brake boster barb spot to tap into for running control vacuum supply. I cut the heater hose pipe down shorter to clear things, blocked up a few holes - filled my ports with coolant due to a shortcut :( , raised the accy cable support by about 10mm with longer bolts and some tube.Good news is the EA82 spfi manifold stacked with my adaptors and IMPCO 125 mixer and pancake air filter clears the underside of the bonnet by enough to fit the gaskets when they come back home from where ever they toddled off to :(

No fiddly air ducting. And just clears the spare tyre.
Oh, and to see how CH2603 the bottom hose for an L Series fit the top of EA82 inlet manifold in a MY is to be seen to be believed !! BLOODY RIPPER !!

<<EDIT>> now I'm told CH2603 is the L Series top hose - it still had its label CH2603

This is gonna work - all inspired by Tony I think :)

Posted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 10:13 pm
by Tweety
looks neat. glad you got it to this point. Its clearer now. Fog has lifted.

Posted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 6:44 am
by steptoe
shiny brass can make things look pretty neat :) , so too a file on cast alloy! Where the brass fitting elbow is, there was a small tower of casting about 25mm high off its platform, leaving a healthy thick boss I felt confident to drill and tap - better than other thin wall locations I was considering such as the front of the thermo area or even the upr thermo housing.
Fog should lift even more ....

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The problem I had with my earlier temporary inlet manifold I made was that it joined a solidly secured Mitsubishi throttle body on the EA81 inlet manifold to the gas mixer by a world record short section of silicone hose and narrow clamps that could dislocate due to the oily nature of LPG causing the silcone sleeve to get slippery and the pull on the vapour inlet hose from the body mounted LPG converter worked things loose. The spfi manifold of yours - as oon as I saw it - got a BINGO moment. The added bonus I am sure will be the EA82s larger internal volume ~ 6mm greater ID over the EA81 inlets.Have to wait 'til mid January before I get to test it :(

Posted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 10:20 am
by steptoe
steptoe wrote: the gaskets when they come back home from where ever they toddled off to :(
toddled off nowhere - after looking at same bit of carpet twelve times and start to clean up work area, there it was, just staring at me reflecting black light from the fluro lighting...was working there for an hour or so after too - never saw it, stpped on it or nothin' !

thread stealer.....

Posted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 10:41 am
by Gannon
So you are replying to your own posts now?

Posted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 6:06 pm
by steptoe
mmmmust be the heat...more finishing things off :)

Posted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 9:14 pm
by TOONGA
Gannon wrote:So you are replying to your own posts now?
when didn't he?

TOONGA

Posted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 9:45 pm
by El_Freddo
steptoe wrote:You speed readers ......:( :( ......it is the water pipe at the thermostat housing part of the EA82 inlet manifold that mates up with the water pipe outta the top of the block that looks like it will interfere with the vac can itself like the pics of Tonys above indicate.
Yeah yeah I got that... What I was missing was a good bit of memory as I thought the vacuum advance canister was further around rather than in that tight place for the EA82 thermostat to make it very tight...

So when are you going to supercharge it Steptoe?

Cheers

Bennie

Posted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 9:57 pm
by steptoe
turbo doesn't need as many brackets fabricated, and the guy with a user name that sounds like a sanitary product, tells me boxers at NA comp ratios and turbos don't mix very well for very long .... got them running real good with the EA82 Y pipe no need , honestly !

Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 6:13 pm
by steptoe
Well this post been put to bed properly until I dragged it up in a search on Tweety. So, lazy me is gonna say tweetys current thirst may be related to that spfi inlet manifold. When I added mine to the mix , my steed's thirst changed by about 10% with just that one change.Hoping you get it on the dyno soon for a good jetting.
Lazy Jonno