The ***ALL NEW*** AUSubaru.com.au Forums

in theory - resolved! drill out pipe, tap to 1/8" BSPT (oil pressure switch size), screw in a male/female brass elbow, seal with a bit of super dooper sealing threebond and then add a suitable sized barbed fitting pointing fitting downwards - in theory .....

steptoe wrote:in theory - resolved! drill out pipe, tap to 1/8" BSPT (oil pressure switch size), screw in a male/female brass elbow, seal with a bit of super dooper sealing threebond and then add a suitable sized barbed fitting pointing fitting downwards - in theory .....

Drilling said hole where?

if it is in the manifold you will always have full advance ... in the bottom of the throttle body will give the proper vacuum needed to get advance with acceleration.

TOONGA

Steptoe, I've only ever seen non-vacuum SPFI setups.

As for your vacuum port being in the way, thought of turning the dizzy around so it's not? I realise this will mess with the dizzy position locking bolt arrangement but I'm sure you could come up with something!

I hope we're talking about the same thing!

Cheers

Bennie

You speed readers ...... ......it is the water pipe at the thermostat housing part of the EA82 inlet manifold that mates up with the water pipe outta the top of the block that looks like it will interfere with the vac can itself like the pics of Tonys above indicate. Word on a better forum indicates this
I think the term is ported vacuum that is needed. I recall single barrel Strombergs on early Fords - there was supposedly a difference between auto and manual transmissions - one got its vacuum just above the throttle butterfly, the other just below ...???.
This throttle body has three port pipes - be nice if at least one worked !

so after "ok" please explain?

anyway today I got my two working TPS's in the mail from Douglas of British Columbia. got one installed and working well. waiting for a brake calliper before testing.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

You can see where I shoved in a bung to plug MKI and II's hole. I bent the vac can doodle down to clear things a little, and MKIII uses the factory hose no dramas, from the top of the block

images are good . This is mark III , as the first in the side 90 degree was gonna be a bit odd and likely collide with something, MK II was a big and bulky 45 degree adaptor in 1/8" BSPT stuff and it did bloody collide with the vac can of the EA81 dizzy and its pipe. Then after some fresh air, another angle, I saw a tall boss with no use to me thread in it. Drilled it out to reduce its height, finsiked off with a hacksaw and file, got the trusty NPT 1/8" taper tap to work in the thick stuff and whacked in the MF 90 degree baby, added the 8mm barb and Bobs....... While the brain was in good mode, saw the vac supply boss could be drilled out to NPT to take BSPT of brake booster vac supply barb (or maynbe Fuji use NPT ??) saves on brake booster hose running to the left hand side of the manifold. Got the old brake boster barb spot to tap into for running control vacuum supply. I cut the heater hose pipe down shorter to clear things, blocked up a few holes - filled my ports with coolant due to a shortcut , raised the accy cable support by about 10mm with longer bolts and some tube.Good news is the EA82 spfi manifold stacked with my adaptors and IMPCO 125 mixer and pancake air filter clears the underside of the bonnet by enough to fit the gaskets when they come back home from where ever they toddled off to

No fiddly air ducting. And just clears the spare tyre.
Oh, and to see how CH2603 the bottom hose for an L Series fit the top of EA82 inlet manifold in a MY is to be seen to be believed !! BLOODY RIPPER !!

<<EDIT>> now I'm told CH2603 is the L Series top hose - it still had its label CH2603

This is gonna work - all inspired by Tony I think

looks neat. glad you got it to this point. Its clearer now. Fog has lifted.

shiny brass can make things look pretty neat , so too a file on cast alloy! Where the brass fitting elbow is, there was a small tower of casting about 25mm high off its platform, leaving a healthy thick boss I felt confident to drill and tap - better than other thin wall locations I was considering such as the front of the thermo area or even the upr thermo housing.
Fog should lift even more ....



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

The problem I had with my earlier temporary inlet manifold I made was that it joined a solidly secured Mitsubishi throttle body on the EA81 inlet manifold to the gas mixer by a world record short section of silicone hose and narrow clamps that could dislocate due to the oily nature of LPG causing the silcone sleeve to get slippery and the pull on the vapour inlet hose from the body mounted LPG converter worked things loose. The spfi manifold of yours - as oon as I saw it - got a BINGO moment. The added bonus I am sure will be the EA82s larger internal volume ~ 6mm greater ID over the EA81 inlets.Have to wait 'til mid January before I get to test it

steptoe wrote: the gaskets when they come back home from where ever they toddled off to

toddled off nowhere - after looking at same bit of carpet twelve times and start to clean up work area, there it was, just staring at me reflecting black light from the fluro lighting...was working there for an hour or so after too - never saw it, stpped on it or nothin' !

thread stealer.....

So you are replying to your own posts now?

mmmmust be the heat...more finishing things off

Gannon wrote:So you are replying to your own posts now?

when didn't he?

TOONGA

steptoe wrote:You speed readers ...... ......it is the water pipe at the thermostat housing part of the EA82 inlet manifold that mates up with the water pipe outta the top of the block that looks like it will interfere with the vac can itself like the pics of Tonys above indicate.

Yeah yeah I got that... What I was missing was a good bit of memory as I thought the vacuum advance canister was further around rather than in that tight place for the EA82 thermostat to make it very tight...

So when are you going to supercharge it Steptoe?

Cheers

Bennie

turbo doesn't need as many brackets fabricated, and the guy with a user name that sounds like a sanitary product, tells me boxers at NA comp ratios and turbos don't mix very well for very long .... got them running real good with the EA82 Y pipe no need , honestly !

Well this post been put to bed properly until I dragged it up in a search on Tweety. So, lazy me is gonna say tweetys current thirst may be related to that spfi inlet manifold. When I added mine to the mix , my steed's thirst changed by about 10% with just that one change.Hoping you get it on the dyno soon for a good jetting.
Lazy Jonno

We took tweety for a ride today to Yea wetlands park. I owned a home opposite the park in the early 1990's.

Tweety, Deb, me, Rosie and the Waeco CF-18 fridge that I swear by. Best buy I've made ever.
Now with full throttle available I was eager to see how it performed especially up hills without towing. Well much better but the richness of the jets spoiled the event. Certainly an improvement but until I get that tune it cruises very well on the freeway at 110kph and has heaps of spare throttle but open it too quick and you get less acceleration than a light throttle squeeze.

This light throttle is required around slow corners too or it bogs down.

Got a brake master cylinder issue ATM (could be stripped thread on a line end bolt) leaking so that takes priority first then the tune. The MC has recently had a stainless steel sleeve inserted so am dissapppointed I think I stripped one of the threads. (Can I get it fixed?)We are saving at the moment for these.

Still get distracted by how good Tweety looks in the photos.
Sort of makes you forget the problems.
You could try adjusting (dropping?) the float level slightly, costs nothing, within budget

I'll think about that float level Greg,

When it idles (so nicely) it is rich also. Timing is at 10 degrees so that isnt the issue. Platinum plugs set at 32 thou. 8mm leads. 98RON.

As Dr Zackary said...."oh the pain"......

For you young guys it was Lost in space 1960's....

Thinking is the first stage Tony.
Action is required to relieve the pain.
Drop the float level 1mm at a time, idle screws out 1/2 turn with each float level drop.
That's "A" theory.
If it gets worse go the other way.
Worst case, put it back to where it was.
Just time (sorry, education), no money.

Thanks again Greg.

I've read this PDF http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfi ... 0Guide.pdf which states the float level in new webers are often correct. So really dont want to touch them.

It also states that the mixtures screws should be set half way from hesitation inbound to hesitation screwed out. Not quarter of a turn out from hesitation screwed in. might make a difference if I try that. Funny, installed supercharger but dont feel confident even looking a tthe new weber. lol