Tweety's ea81 build

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sat Nov 01, 2014 5:55 pm

New year we have rego, then the radiator and fans. Need reducers from 41mm to 32mm for the Porsche radiator to fit. It's the shortest radiator height wise - only 170mm so will fit snugly behind the number plate with enough space to exit the hot air.

Couldnt sleep last night so up at 2am and engine installed by 3am. Exhausts done, alternator done, water pump installed- I used a heater pipe section from a old stock ea81 inlet manifold (at the rear) to take the heater pipe from the water pump under the manifold. Reckon if I used hose the direct heat from the block could cause future leaks.
Campbell (EB) told me he set number 1 cylinder to TDC. Remember he also had a good s/hand crank for several reasons, the old one was worn badly, didnt match up ideally to the new cam gear (damaged due to the broken oil ring debris) and the cranks olt hole thread was stripped. I hink I did the strip with that extra ribbed pulley with the supercharger). So now I have a single V pulley on the front and - no TDC mark on it. And you guys know I dont have the flywheel timing marks.

So after searching for a tell tale mark on the pulley with no success, I realised there were two threaded holes on the pulley for small bolts maybe about 5mm diameter and they were directly below and directly above the crank pulley. That would be TDC when those two holes were vertical. Saved me fitting the old pulley. Didnt want to disturb Campbells work. So now have a mark for TDC. The crank pulley is 120mm diameter on the outer rim. Circumference is 2 pi r = 120x3.1412 = 377mm. So one degree is about 377/360 = 1.05mm so 10 degrees is 10 1/2 mm from centre block halves. I had a pointer made up for this but lost it. Gotta make another.

Yeh, Jonno, 5mm off the block and heads- a lot. I was surprised. I'm anxious to see what the 38/38 weber will bring to the low revving performance. Dyno will be needed....more money...

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Nov 01, 2014 9:38 pm

and for the kids wondering about Tonys girl pictured...she is from a country where only shorts are worn - so hot in the Amazon jungle.

I wonder with the magic of the internet that maybe someone might present her with one of these, explain what it is, how to wear it. One with sleeves would be better - great for wiping a runny nose on - keeping hands free for more important things like gathering food for the villagers

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Nov 01, 2014 9:47 pm

hmm, I rolled one of my 82 crank pulleys along a tape measure and came up with 360mm for circumference. Must have had a clever engineer start work after the EA81.

57 sleeps to the new year - sleep well Tony

I think you'd better make sure that it wil at least fire up - save disappointment for a few of us further down the track - like in about 60 days ??

And, surely, to fire it up from time to time will keep all Tweets vital components bathed in lubricant ??

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Nov 01, 2014 9:58 pm

As for the increased volume of the spfi inlet manifold - I am not sold on any better drivability, though it is strong down low end. I had a problem when towing, resolved by adding the EA82 exhaust and sort of got it back again once the spfi inlet has gone on

, and, I can sort of make things bog down.

Hooked up the Vane tailpipe analyser and taken it for a good run, richened load mixtures up a bit - seeing high 12's now, insead of high 14's and low 15:1 hauling self up hills.

My fuel economy has gone the wroong way, and coincidentally at same time as off the road for the inlet manifold I installed a new tank sender - might need to get used to its more accurate readings as well. I need to compare the spfi throttle body plate with the Mitsubishi one I ran before...

Scored another spfi inlet to try with an EA81 turbo

one day

Might be worth checking the 38/38 don't breathe too big on Tweety, before you are ready to roll....

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sun Nov 02, 2014 1:51 pm

At least fire up. does that mean I can run the engine for say 20 seconds or so without coolant and radiator?

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Sun Nov 02, 2014 5:17 pm

No, do it properly, get oil pressure up before you let it fire, with it full of coolant.
Most of us can wait.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Nov 03, 2014 6:42 am

Well, just don't take a look inside many workshops/panel shops, where engines are fired up and move cars about without coolant.... tambox forgot to say crank it over by hand to get oil coiculating first. I had an EA81 that needed priming by shoving a pvc drip tube in where oil filter was and forced oil down through oil pump to the pick up - then had no dramas.

Yeah, plenty of time, don't let any of us rush you - don't want the blame if sumptin' goes bad .

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Mon Nov 03, 2014 8:46 am

I usually crank until the oil pressure light goes out, then try and start it. Assuming the engine was assembled with assembly grease on its bits it will be fine. Should definitely fill the block with coolant. Its not exactly hard to do.

Regards

Doug

Proton mouse · Post by **Proton mouse** » Mon Nov 03, 2014 10:51 am

The most hyper critical factor when starting a rebuilt motor, is the camshaft to lifter wearing in period. When first started, the new engine needs to be run for 20 to 30 mins while cycling revs between 1500 to 3000 rpm. Do not let it idle. Check temps and pressures and for any leaks, if you need to stop it, fine, but keep tabs on that initial break in period.
Prime the oiling system as best you can as previously described by drip feed and also filling the oil filter full before fitting. On some motors it is possible to spin the oil pump rigged to an electric drill, have a look at that possibility. Avoid excessive cranking of the engine (even by hand) before firing as the engine builder will have put a molly lubricant paste on the cam lobes, which will be flung off/squished away before it has had a chance to do its job.
Have carby primed and set for fast idle before first start too so it fires straight away and cant idle below 1500.
Good luck with it!!
John.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Nov 03, 2014 8:25 pm

Thanks for your ideas guys.

Yeh, will prime as much as I can. Electric fuel pump should fill the bowl so will be ready there. Manual choke will be set, Have slightly turned the crank to enable bolting up the auto flex plate to the flywheel and engine feels nice, tight and lubed.

Crikey I'm excited.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Nov 04, 2014 6:40 am

the cam may also been lubrited for better start up protection. the 1500rpm suggestion for minimum revs ? for max oil pressure ? not sure why the 20 to 30 minutes min run time for first start is so important. i'd make sure timing and air fuel ratios were good more over ....

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Tue Nov 04, 2014 10:10 am

The 20-30 mins used to be a pre-monotorque standard, get it up to full operating temperature, then let it cool down, re-torque the heads.
I guess these days it would just be a good way to fully warm it up then check everything.
Then you run it on your dyno for 30-60 mins to bed the rings in, wont you Tony?

Proton mouse · Post by **Proton mouse** » Tue Nov 04, 2014 11:49 am

the cam may also been lubrited for better start up protection. the 1500rpm suggestion for minimum revs ? for max oil pressure ? not sure why the 20 to 30 minutes min run time for first start is so important. i'd make sure timing and air fuel ratios were good more over ....

The 20/30 mins is the initial wearing/mating in period of the cam to lifter surfaces. If not done right, the lifter wont spin and be oiled properly and you will end up with an egged cam lobe and a FAILURE!! I know this through the tried and trusted method of "doing it the wrong way myself' some 20 years ago

I bought a brand new cam, brand new lifters but didn't bed them as per above. Ended up in failure.
Why 1500 as a minimum? Its because contact stresses at low rpm are higher, some say 2000rpm is the minimum. Just don't let it idle!! And cycle the revs up and down between the 2 parameters.

The 20-30 mins used to be a pre-monotorque standard, get it up to full operating temperature, then let it cool down, re-torque the heads.
I guess these days it would just be a good way to fully warm it up then check everything.

Nope, nothing to do with heating or re torqueing of gaskets I'm afraid !!

Then you run it on your dyno for 30-60 mins to bed the rings in, wont you Tony?

Hmmm maybe an engine dyno for 8 hours! Otherwise drive the golden chariot for 800km at varying speeds from 60 to 90 (try not to sit on a constant speed though) and give it some lovely hills for a bit of load.

Proton mouse · Post by **Proton mouse** » Tue Nov 04, 2014 11:52 am

A quick google of 'bedding in a camshaft' reveals plenty of good reading.
Here is but one....
http://www.cranecams.com.au/pdfs/CAM%20 ... CEDURE.pdf

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Tue Nov 04, 2014 1:23 pm

The safest way is just to follow what the supplier/builder recommends for the components used, as there can be many variations in part types, and views.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Tue Nov 04, 2014 8:28 pm

Ok, this is a healthy discussion.

What has the EB told me?. He said head re-torquing is NOT required. Like I said this is interesting.

My plan was to - after start up get high idle at say 1500rpm for a minute or so. Lower idle to 1000 rpm and check and adjust timing to 10 degrees BTDC. Adjust mixture to obtain a slightly rich mixture from the two mixture screws. Raise idle back to 1500 rpm. Fill up auto trans fluid. (the trans has been dismantled and seals renewed. Advised to put in 3 litres of fluid (been done) then after start up fill the trans with remaining 2.5 litres so the torque converter fills up with fluid). Check coolant level as will have new radiator in different location.

Test revving ability from 1500 to 3000 and back.

After engine is at operating temp turn off engine. Wait till it cools. Check for leaks etc.

Next start up ride trike to Euroa. It's downhill most of the way - 22 kms. Ride up and down freeway adjusting speed as suggested 60kph to 90 kph. Upon return going up the hill select 2nd gear for some load.

Polish trike...

Anything wrong with this proceedure?

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:42 am

If the EB says its ok tweety, then its OK.

Doug

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Wed Nov 05, 2014 4:14 pm

Proton Mouse. I've read the start up procedure in that link to Crane cams. The only thing I disagree with is timing. After running the engine for a couple of minutes I dont think it would hurt to lower revs to 1000 and set the timing. this would only take one minute if the timing light, spanner etc are ready and connected.

I dont think running the engine for a fair while with timing out would be good especially since the timing was roughly set by the dizzy rotor button direction only.

I'll take on board the ideas.

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Wed Nov 05, 2014 5:26 pm

This is where you get into the differences of the parts used, is your cam a plain machined cam or has it been molly coated?
Just follow the instructions for the parts used in your motor.
Timing is not critical under no load, as long as it is roughly right.
Under load, different story.
It will get confusing if you read all the different suggestions, the internet is a big supplier of information, some of it will be wrong for you situation.
Some of it will be right.
Personally, I would make sure the oil pressure and coolant are right, then Worry about the rest. Either of these being wrong can quickly cause damage.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:33 pm

Tweety wrote:Anything wrong with this proceedure?

Yes - I've not received my invite to help run the engine in

I'm excited for you Tony, can't wait to see what the new engine holds!

Cheers

Bennie