You can only ask about the filming. They may ask to not have any identifying features or themselves in the video - you can only ask! Or get them to do it the way they want it…
Now, make sure you sleep every night between now and then!
![Razz :razz:](./images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)
Cheers
Bennie
Woooohooo! It must have felt fantastic taking it for that small raz around the block despite the tune (or lack thereof and other issues)!Silverbullet wrote: ↑Fri Jan 26, 2024 6:58 pmProgress today, she moves!I made the last bracket (I think) for this conversion project being the engine stay rod bracket. Just for fun(?) and being that I started later in the evening, I made this one entirely without power tools except a cordless drill, and the welder of course. I tell ya, cutting through that much 5mm plate with a hacksaw and hand file really makes the finished product feel special and valuable
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Started with a cardboard template of course (not pictured)
Gave the stay rod the cut and shut treatment, then both a new lick of satin black of course.
Fired her up and attempted to back out. Some faff with the clutch not disengaging, me winding it all the way in, moved it, then the clutch decided it was actually too far in so I had to put it backBut it moves and changes gears, time for a much needed bath (it was diabolically filthy with dust)
Couldn't resist going for a lap around the back streets, which immediately revealed huge problems with the tune/base map. Death rattle as soon as fed any sniff of throttle into it when moving. Took 15 degrees of timing out of the map, better but still not enough. Put more fuel in the fuel map, better but still not enough. Every time it would start easier and idle better, the ECU and I are both learning. It really is time for a dyno session now, I shouldn't drive it any more for risk of damaging the engine. It was weird with the badly tuned run, it sounded and felt exactly like the old EA twin carbHad a small scare with the P/S pump sounding like it was up the creek for a while, seems it took ages to actually burp/bleed the air out.
Man was it ever weird being in the old girl again after 6 months in the Foz, it felt so low and cramped in comparison![]()
Even this I don't think would help anything given recent experience, there's no guarantee any of it would work properly. I think to solve it that way, nothing less than a perfectly running, driving car would need to give up its donor manifold to see if it fixes my issues.
Yes, and that I'm stubborn as a mule and I will beat this thing into submission one way or other
Can't be changed, there's no need. Some sensor inputs allow software enabled, pull up/pull down resistors (only temp sensors really)Other thing to ask: what voltage does the ECU use for the various sensors and can this be changed within the ECU parameters?
I'm not going that far, no space or budget for a donor vehicle. I'd sooner make a new engine loom from scratch because it would be a better end result. But just can't buy the plug and pin connector kits for the factory hardware for love nor money.If you’re going to the point of a donor vehicle you might as well cut down the factory wiring loom, throw that in and call it a day…
The only factory sensors I'm using currently are cam, crank and TPS. Cam and crank readings are all rock solid with no errors. TPS signal jumps around even with the TPS disconnected which is truly bizarre, can't work out why. Got a new genuine TPS coming anyway. The other sensors I mentioned are already new from Haltech. The ECU has its own onboard MAP sensor.What’s the plan now, all new sensors from Haltech or Subaru? That’ll add up quickly![]()
Cheers
Bennie
Silverbullet:Silverbullet wrote: ↑Fri Feb 09, 2024 10:15 pmI'm not going that far, no space or budget for a donor vehicle. I'd sooner make a new engine loom from scratch because it would be a better end result. But just can't buy the plug and pin connector kits for the factory hardware for love nor money.
That was around 2 and a half hives worth. I run 9 conventional honey frames in a 10 frame box on my hives so they build the comb out super deep. This gets me more honey per box than using 10 frames. Around 25kg from one box if everything is perfect (it rarely isEl_Freddo wrote: ↑Sun Feb 18, 2024 8:56 pmHijack/side discussion:And how many hives are we taking for that amount of honey? That’s a fair effort! I’m early in my bee keeping journey with a flow hive - I want to clean out the flow frames this winter… anyway, probably should start a new discussion about that! Do you sell your honey or are you into it so much that you’ll eat that amount with your family across the year? (Seems excessive!)