Brumby Rear suspension swap

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stenno
Junior Member
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:22 pm
Location: Wauchope NSW

Post by stenno » Wed Apr 27, 2016 7:17 am

********* L series arm, ej balljoint and hub, my tie rod ends and steering rack on the front. Factory my castor rods (cause I spaced back the crossmember 100mm)
Xt6 rear hubs from the U.S. Custom modified (extra holes and washers welded around new holes) ej rear backing plates for hand brake.
I originally used a Mitsubishi express van castor rods and xf falcon bushes before I moved back the crossmember but leading edge guard clearance and inner guard clearance was non existant. But that was with 215/45 17" wheels.

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stenno
Junior Member
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:22 pm
Location: Wauchope NSW

Post by stenno » Wed Apr 27, 2016 7:39 am

Before I bought the ********* front arm, I bought the correct angle taper cutter to re cut my / l series control arms for an ej balljoint. I never used it but dfoyl borrowed and used it.
A kit? The only tools I have used are a 5" angle grinder, scribe, square, steel rule, and tape, cordless drill and ordinary drill bits, and a 20yo first generation cig weld 170 stick welder. And a fair bit of head scratching. Plus a $10 magnetic angle finder and a can of wd40 that was 3mm bigger than the tube.
The jig was just scrap laying around, and not really needed. Just make sure the mounts are square and level and evenly set it to match chassis width
I'll get some more detailed photos of the measurements for height and placement etc.
For chassis rail hole spacing, use bolts in the chassis rail not centre of bolt holes in MY crossmember. The 3mm difference means I now have to take it back out and die grind the hole to a slot to get it to bolt up.
You could possibly use a "lift block" by grinding the side straps and welding the crossmember to that. Factory mounts are only really thin bent sheet metal, and the joining strips on most mounts are usually 4-5mm thick plate.

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