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Other than Steve, neither Ross or myself have our cars on the forum. Now that something other than the normal upgrades ( 14 inch tires, lift kit , etc ) have happened and more we hope will happen , we thought it was time to put Ross's car up.

A couple of details about the car , it has front and rear L series seats fitted , a touring wagon center console , electric windows, central locking , alarm with key less entry , 14 inch wheels with 27 inch nangkang tires, guard cuts for 27's , L series rear coil overs , roof console, replacement front alloy bar, steal rear bumper with tire swinger, L series cut down front mudflaps, power steering and spot lights.



Now the start of the major upgrades. Fitted rear disk brakes to it today.

Before fitting ,



After fitting,

Them's the breaks... I mean brakes.

Today we fitted a set of L series front brakes to the car. With the L series front brakes being bigger, we are hoping it will give a little better braking.

rtcb65 wrote:Today we fitted a set of L series front brakes to the car. With the L series front brakes being bigger, we are hoping it will give a little better braking.

And did it give better braking power?
Cheers
AP

AlpineRaven wrote:And did it give better braking power?
Cheers
AP

With front and rear disks fitted it feels like it pulls up alot better than the standard M.Y set up. Once the liberty brake booster is fitted , we will see how the hole system works.

Now that the liberty brake booster is fitted, there is no comparison. The brake set up is impressive. I haven't driven a newer model so i cant compare . But compared to the older models , they are 100 % better.

Now that we know this is a good upgrade and works , and we now know how to do it, it was good practice for our project cars. At least now we are not going in blind , when doing break upgrades for the EJ conversions .

G'day, we have had problems trying to fit L front brakes to MY as discussed here in a recent thread:showthread.php?t=14599

The calipers will only bolt onto the L series hub which then causes over positive camber for the vehicle because of the different angle of the strut to ball joint entry points. How have you addressed this and if you have used the L series hub, there is also issues with the axle mating to the rear hub seal. Just interested to know how you have tackled the conversion.

Thanks mate, have followed your threads with great interest and admiration for what you fellas and gals have achieved.

Cheers

Yes i would also like to know this.

Also, what was involved in fitting the Liberty booster?

subybrumby wrote:G'day, we have had problems trying to fit L front brakes to MY as discussed here in a recent thread:showthread.php?t=14599

The calipers will only bolt onto the L series hub which then causes over positive camber for the vehicle because of the different angle of the strut to ball joint entry points. How have you addressed this and if you have used the L series hub, there is also issues with the axle mating to the rear hub seal. Just interested to know how you have tackled the conversion.

Thanks mate, have followed your threads with great interest and admiration for what you fellas and gals have achieved.

Cheers

Suparoo wrote:Yes i would also like to know this.

Also, what was involved in fitting the Liberty booster?

We didnt come across the camber problem. We just replaced the M.Y hub with the L series hub and used L series tie rods and it went together. Also used the L series C.V's on the M.Y. shafts ( 22 spline shaft )

The liberty brake booster goes straight in other than the length of the shaft that joins to the pedal. It has to be lengthened some way to make it reach the brake pedal. The spacer needs to be used from the M.Y. The pic below is the car with it all fitted .

No worries. I found that basically, using the MY lower control arm, it brings the bottom of the hub further to the centre of the vehicle giving a look like this \ /. But hey, if it all went together for you, great. Cheers.

Today Ross and myself got a new diff mount bush and fitted it up, and finished off the gear selectors for the L series box that is to be fitted.

A little further along now, Steve was down so instead of using washers to space the starter out, to match the ring gear on the fly wheel , we got him to make a spacer which only took him about an hour. So now the Subaru is running a L series gearbox.

Done a few more things today. Made another set of gearbox mounts as the others were only 70% right for this car. Also put new bearings and cleaned up a waic pump, made a variable speed controller for it , to prepare for the EA81t .

Got details on the variable speed control?

Looks like the instrument illumination dimmer, but i thought it wouldnt have the current rating to control a pump.

Suparoo wrote:Got details on the variable speed control?

Looks like the instrument illumination dimmer, but i thought it wouldnt have the current rating to control a pump.

That is what it is. The dimmer controller . Stripped the light switch down so there is only the dimmer control. Pulled the mounting thread of the light switch part and a couple of very light tacks from the mig , and bingo, it now has a thread to mount it.

I didnt think it would have the rating to carry the curent either. So we run it to a wiper motor , and loaded it up. I took a hell of a load to even get it to show any sign of glowing red. under normal load , it had no trouble. So we are going to give it a go , and see how it handles it.

Ok, Ross's new subframing is welded in and finished. With the two piece tail shaft, and no centre diff, the amount of torque the tailshaft has to deal with can be rather serious. If the centre bearing isn't mounted to something solid (like when using a flimsy piece of flat bar screwed to the floor), it will rip away from its mounting and since it can only go down until it hits the road, the next place it will want to go is up through the floor...

This section is fabricated out of a singe piece of 40x40x2 RHS. I wanted to use 1.6mm but the steel shop only had 2mm in stock, and we don't like waiting. It was a bit harder to hammer and shape, but was worth the effort I think.





This is it bent, but not welded up yet.










We tested the car yesterday arvo and it feels quite solid and vibration free. The trip to Brissie and back today should reveal any minor adjustments needed, if any.

We now have the EA81T out of the car it come in, and will be cleaning it up before it goes in this one.

you do realise that the reason people do the "bolt on a bit of flat bar" method is that hardly anyone has skills to make something like that.

unreal work. very impressive

vincentvega wrote:you do realise that the reason people do the "bolt on a bit of flat bar" method is that hardly anyone has skills to make something like that.

unreal work. very impressive

I do realize that most people cant do that, which includes me. With saying that, there would have to be a better way than just a strip of flat bar. A little bit of thinking and common sense would come up with something better.

For example , before the cross member was thought of, i was contemplating a piece of box cut to the shape of the floor pan and tacked onto a piece of 1.2 steal sheet. Similar to the L series set up.