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brumbyrunner
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Post by brumbyrunner » Sat Dec 22, 2007 12:15 pm

Lightning_Silver_RX wrote:Would it not be better to buy an albins gear set and put all your stuff in your current box ?
And on top of what Brett explained, I want to keep my current box as a good spare.
Albins advertised ratios are higher than what I am after.
Settlement Creek Racing

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seagull
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Post by seagull » Sat Dec 22, 2007 3:27 pm

the skipping of the wheels when racing is going to snap / brake the gear box like a twig

your wasting your time !

or keep going it makes good reading :)

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BRUMBERTY
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Post by BRUMBERTY » Sat Dec 22, 2007 5:39 pm

BAh Humbug Seagull.

Aren't we a ray of sunshine today?

Rally cars never get wheels off the ground then....
1989 Subaru WonderBrumby II
EJ22 Dual range AWD lifted, widened and much happier now thanks very much.

1991 L Series wagon, white and perfectly normal apart from the ticking, no I think that is normal.

Jet boat..webbered EA81 with a hybrid tin dish welded and glued to it.

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brumbyrunner
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Post by brumbyrunner » Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:14 pm

seagull wrote:the skipping of the wheels when racing is going to snap / brake the gear box like a twig

your wasting your time !

or keep going it makes good reading :)
Well that is sad news.
How much power were you putting out to get that result from your gearbox?
What traction aids did you incorporate to prevent your wheels from skipping in the first place?
And how heavy is your vehicle?
Settlement Creek Racing

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brumbyrunner
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Post by brumbyrunner » Sat Dec 22, 2007 9:38 pm

I managed to get the good clutch plate LSD out of my spare 3.7 rear diff today and fitted it to the 4.111. Thanks Brett, I should have asked you about it first. Would have saved me a heap of time.
Very happy with the way the rear hooks up now. Can't wait to see what the 20kg centre does for it.
Settlement Creek Racing

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Outback bloke
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Post by Outback bloke » Sun Dec 23, 2007 12:13 am

seagull wrote: or keep going it makes good reading :)
Well it did. I suppose it still could if you have any proof to your theory. Perhaps some experience? Some facts maybe? Bloody hell, even some advice from that well of knowledge you exude.

Hhhhhhmmmmmmm.......

I get it now.......

there's a thought worth pondering for more than half a second...........

Maybe people should make race cars that never break. Bloody good idea. Why didn't some one think of that before now?

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Post by Outback bloke » Sun Dec 23, 2007 12:15 am

brumbyrunner wrote:I managed to get the good clutch plate LSD out of my spare 3.7 rear diff today and fitted it to the 4.111. Thanks Brett, I should have asked you about it first. Would have saved me a heap of time.
Very happy with the way the rear hooks up now. Can't wait to see what the 20kg centre does for it.
Any more speed trials yet? It would feel like a different car being able to get the power to the wheels now.

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seagull
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Post by seagull » Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:05 am

2 x 9" rear pinions ( snapped like chalk )
1 x 3" tail shaft
2 x USA made drive shafts
1 x toyota V8
Thats mate no 1 max ( perths mad max )

Mate no 2 RA RS sedan DTrally ( RS turbo rally car )
2 x rear out put shafts rear diff
a few rear drive shafts
countless 5mt gear boxes ( every gear ratio ) & after market gear sets
1 x 6MT gear box ( some one said they dont bust )

I think in 15 years I have seen just about every thing

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seagull
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Post by seagull » Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:07 am


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seagull
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Post by seagull » Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:09 am

some one also said you can not drift a 4 wheel drive subaru , kind of pleased it was as it was the only thing pulling us out of the trees :)

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seagull
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Post by seagull » Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:11 am


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brumbyrunner
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Post by brumbyrunner » Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:17 am

BYB-01 wrote:Any more speed trials yet? It would feel like a different car being able to get the power to the wheels now.
Still runs out of puff at 165 in 4th or 5th. Can't have been slipping the other day until I blew the viscous rear diff.
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seagull
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Post by seagull » Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:23 am

we are running the top cars at 210ks ( off road in wa ) you best keep well left mate as you will get run over

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Post by brumbyrunner » Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:56 am

seagull wrote:2 x 9" rear pinions ( snapped like chalk )
1 x 3" tail shaft
2 x USA made drive shafts
1 x toyota V8
Thats mate no 1 max ( perths mad max )

Mate no 2 RA RS sedan DTrally ( RS turbo rally car )
2 x rear out put shafts rear diff
a few rear drive shafts
countless 5mt gear boxes ( every gear ratio ) & after market gear sets
1 x 6MT gear box ( some one said they dont bust )

I think in 15 years I have seen just about every thing
First one sounds like a buggy?
2nd one obviously a rally car. Maybe local priveteer or state championship?
seagull wrote:some one also said you can not drift a 4 wheel drive subaru , kind of pleased it was as it was the only thing pulling us out of the trees :)
I don't understand :(
You're telling me your Subaru rallycar broke a lot but your drift car is fine?
I don't know anything about drifting (except its boring to watch) but I would imagine that it'd be pretty hard on the drivetrain?

With the success of Subaru in motorsport since the mid 80s I would have thought that their outstanding reliability was beyond question. But everything breaks eventually doesn't it. To this end I am/intend running modest power levels, about 240fwhp, and keeping unloaded wheelspin to a minimum through the use of LSDs. As I have said before, this is no Trophy Truck. I don't pretend to think I'm going to be able to touch pro class buggies and class 4 trucks. My intention is to try to be competitive in class 7/8 and have fun. I could spend a few hundred grand straight up and been competitive as a frontrunner (maybe) but I wouldn't have started with a Subaru. And I wouldn't be having as much fun (because of the $). I hope you're gearbox predictions are wrong, but if I have to upgrade to a 6MT or use an auto then I will. But I think that is a fair way off yet. Now that the car is mechanically finished or at least the gearing decisions have been made I can start on the suspension. If I can't get some decent suspension travel then I'm not going to be able to go fast enough to blow up anything :)
Sorry for the long post, just didn't want you to think I came into this with my eyes shut.
Settlement Creek Racing

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brumbyrunner
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Post by brumbyrunner » Sun Dec 23, 2007 2:08 am

seagull wrote:we are running the top cars at 210ks ( off road in wa ) you best keep well left mate as you will get run over
Yeah, the pro class buggies have certainly gotten quick. Seems to be a huge popularity towards V8s now where it used to be all 4s and the odd 6. Horsepower figures people are talking are mind blowing.

I won't mind pulling over to let you through. In fact, it'll be my pleasure. But why is your 210km/h car behind me. You must have to slow down a lot for the rough stuff?

Don't feel bad for me, I know of competative class 7/8 cars that only max out around 140km/h. My old RX Turbo ran out to 190 and I'm shooting for that or a bit more with this new car.
Settlement Creek Racing

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Post by Thalass » Sun Dec 23, 2007 2:19 am

Man... This is a bloody awesome machine. When you're near Perth the WA boys should all head out and see you race. I'd be in for sure!

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Post by Wilbur » Mon Dec 24, 2007 9:47 am

brumbyrunner wrote:And on top of what Brett explained, I want to keep my current box as a good spare.
Albins advertised ratios are higher than what I am after.

Really ? I thought the link I posted a couple of pages back were the right ratios....
RATIOS

Gr oup N (Homol og at ed ) :

1s t – 3.45:1[/align]
2n d – 2.33:1[/align]
3r d – 1.75: 1[/align]
4t h – 1.35:1[/align]
5t h – 0.97:1

Fair enough you want to have a spare box.

[/align]

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Wilbur
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Post by Wilbur » Mon Dec 24, 2007 9:49 am

brumbyrunner wrote: I won't mind pulling over to let you through. In fact, it'll be my pleasure. But why is your 210km/h car behind me. You must have to slow down a lot for the rough stuff?


That's what I was thinking.


On the topic of suspension I assume you have some ideas ? Would you be working on a % up and down travel ?

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brumbyrunner
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Post by brumbyrunner » Mon Dec 24, 2007 11:24 am

Lightning_Silver_RX wrote:Really ? I thought the link I posted a couple of pages back were the right ratios....
RATIOS

Gr oup N (Homol og at ed ) :

1s t – 3.45:1[/align]
2n d – 2.33:1[/align]
3r d – 1.75: 1[/align]
4t h – 1.35:1[/align]
5t h – 0.97:1

Fair enough you want to have a spare box.

[/align]
You're right. I must have missed that. Thanks for bringing that back to my attention. I will chase that up with them.
Settlement Creek Racing

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brumbyrunner
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Post by brumbyrunner » Mon Dec 24, 2007 11:51 am

Lightning_Silver_RX wrote:On the topic of suspension I assume you have some ideas ? Would you be working on a % up and down travel ?
No, we talk inches of wheel travel. You can then adjust the ride height to change the bump and rebound to suit the conditions.

Secured some 5 stud rims to get my Crossbred kit rolling and also some 4 spot front/2 spot rear calipers.

Are you working Christmas Eve?
Settlement Creek Racing

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