The Brumbyrunner Project
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- brumbyrunner
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- Location: SEQ
- Captain Obvious
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aaarr ok sweet should work well!!
[SIGPIC]http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/image.php ... 1468060434[/SIGPIC]
The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS
The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS
- brumbyrunner
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Small update.
Thanks to Liberty driveshafts I'm able to duplicate the front track easier than I thought.
I was going to use twin shocks on each trailing arm but had a re-think due to the weight, cost and room I'm now going with one per side. They're a fair step up from the old ones we've been using that I had built for the RX. 70mm body with a 60mm piston compared to 50mm body and twice as long.
Using a .8 motion ratio (compared to the factory .9), a 12" travel shock will give me 14" at the wheel. If it's deemed nessessary that we need an aditional shock I can duplicate the same shock for ease of spares and run one at .7 and move the other out to .85
With the shock sitting at 90 degrees to the trailing arm at full bump it should give me a good rising rate on compression and be easy enough to design. I've just got a little clearance issue with part of the cage.....
Hopefully photos of a painted arm tomorrow.
Thanks to Liberty driveshafts I'm able to duplicate the front track easier than I thought.
I was going to use twin shocks on each trailing arm but had a re-think due to the weight, cost and room I'm now going with one per side. They're a fair step up from the old ones we've been using that I had built for the RX. 70mm body with a 60mm piston compared to 50mm body and twice as long.
Using a .8 motion ratio (compared to the factory .9), a 12" travel shock will give me 14" at the wheel. If it's deemed nessessary that we need an aditional shock I can duplicate the same shock for ease of spares and run one at .7 and move the other out to .85
With the shock sitting at 90 degrees to the trailing arm at full bump it should give me a good rising rate on compression and be easy enough to design. I've just got a little clearance issue with part of the cage.....
Hopefully photos of a painted arm tomorrow.
Settlement Creek Racing
- brumbyrunner
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Pics of painted trailing arms was a bit ambitious. Still need to add brake line mounts, bumpstop stops and mounts for the coilovers. I've built the drivers side arm and should get the final welding done on it today.
I was thinking about getting another batch of team shirts made up and I'd like input from anyone who wants them. I know Brett needs more (so he doesn't have to wash his one shirt every night) and probably Dane, Wilbur and anyone who is coming to Finke. I like the old design of shirt but it is very expensive at $50 each (not that team members need to worry about that). Do you think a cheaper/lower quality shirt would be better if you were buying it for yourself? I know we got heaps of inquiry to purchase shirts at Finke last year. Jim reckons we need a long sleaved work shirt for day use and save the others for casual/night time. He has an issue with the screen printing sticking to his back or something. Anyone else have a problem or ideas?
I looked for a forum section to post this question but couldn't find one suitable so ended up here. This got me thinking, can we have a new section for either offroad racing, motorsport teams or just one for Settlement Creek Racing? This would prevent all the whoring that takes place in the supposed car build up thread (and I'm more guilty than anyone else).
I was thinking about getting another batch of team shirts made up and I'd like input from anyone who wants them. I know Brett needs more (so he doesn't have to wash his one shirt every night) and probably Dane, Wilbur and anyone who is coming to Finke. I like the old design of shirt but it is very expensive at $50 each (not that team members need to worry about that). Do you think a cheaper/lower quality shirt would be better if you were buying it for yourself? I know we got heaps of inquiry to purchase shirts at Finke last year. Jim reckons we need a long sleaved work shirt for day use and save the others for casual/night time. He has an issue with the screen printing sticking to his back or something. Anyone else have a problem or ideas?
I looked for a forum section to post this question but couldn't find one suitable so ended up here. This got me thinking, can we have a new section for either offroad racing, motorsport teams or just one for Settlement Creek Racing? This would prevent all the whoring that takes place in the supposed car build up thread (and I'm more guilty than anyone else).
Settlement Creek Racing
- Outback bloke
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I think Jim is on to it with a different style for working on the car and getting dirty. Something cotton so it doesn't stick to you when you are getting hot and sweaty under the car. $10 cotton T-shirts or the or like would be fine.
Save the other ones for drinking bourbon with all the fans at the presentation.
Save the other ones for drinking bourbon with all the fans at the presentation.
- vincentvega
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I would be keen for 2x cheaper shirts for getting dirty in, and keep the current shirts for cleaner activities like said bourbon. They really are way too nice a shirt to cover in grease and dirt. Thats why i wear my ausubaru shirt to the track
brumbyrunner wrote:And just to clarify the real 4WD thing, Subarus are an unreal 4WD.
- brumbyrunner
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Jim and I choose to wear long sleeved shirts most of the time.
Should I presume everyone else prefers short?
Does the screen print on the back of the current shirt cause the shirt to stick to you when you're hot & sweaty? Or is it just that shirt (lets call it the formal shirt)? Would the screen print be good on a $10 cotton T-shirt or leave it off altogether?
Should I presume everyone else prefers short?
Does the screen print on the back of the current shirt cause the shirt to stick to you when you're hot & sweaty? Or is it just that shirt (lets call it the formal shirt)? Would the screen print be good on a $10 cotton T-shirt or leave it off altogether?
Settlement Creek Racing
- INEEDABEER
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Don't forget the G-Strings for the girls:D:D:Dbrumbyrunner wrote:Pics of painted trailing arms was a bit ambitious. Still need to add brake line mounts, bumpstop stops and mounts for the coilovers. I've built the drivers side arm and should get the final welding done on it today.
I was thinking about getting another batch of team shirts made up and I'd like input from anyone who wants them. I know Brett needs more (so he doesn't have to wash his one shirt every night) and probably Dane, Wilbur and anyone who is coming to Finke. I like the old design of shirt but it is very expensive at $50 each (not that team members need to worry about that). Do you think a cheaper/lower quality shirt would be better if you were buying it for yourself? I know we got heaps of inquiry to purchase shirts at Finke last year. Jim reckons we need a long sleaved work shirt for day use and save the others for casual/night time. He has an issue with the screen printing sticking to his back or something. Anyone else have a problem or ideas?
I looked for a forum section to post this question but couldn't find one suitable so ended up here. This got me thinking, can we have a new section for either offroad racing, motorsport teams or just one for Settlement Creek Racing? This would prevent all the whoring that takes place in the supposed car build up thread (and I'm more guilty than anyone else).
]Hey I know Jack Schitte![/SIZE]
Yeah the screen print does stick once hot and bothered. Seeing as though Finke is the major event, long sleeves would be good. Maybe a straight black with something simple and cheap on it to indicate who we belong to. If a flash as rat with a gold tooth jacket was on the card I'd be up for that too. Obviously on a wearer pays basis.
There is only one thing you must do in your life. Everything else is a choice.
- brumbyrunner
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Great job on the new forum sections, thanks. I hope the Subie Boys like their new home too.
Couldn't resist painting a trailing arm to see what it looks like.
The diff hanger had to be modified to sit 6mm further back so I finished it off and primed.
This is where the coilover will run through the inner guard.
Couldn't resist painting a trailing arm to see what it looks like.
The diff hanger had to be modified to sit 6mm further back so I finished it off and primed.
This is where the coilover will run through the inner guard.
Settlement Creek Racing
- brumbyrunner
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Weighed some componants with surprising results.
Genuine L series trailing arm with all drum brake fittings included = 15.4kg
The new fabricated trailing arm with heims and Crossbred hub fitted = 16.8kg
Liberty rear disc rotor ads 5kg so now 21.8kg without caliper.
Double Moustache bar without the ends on it = 6.6kg
New fabricated diff hanger = 5.6kg
R160 rear diff = 24.5kg
L series trailing arm mounting tube that I'm not using = 13.4kg
Still need to weigh the original torsion bar housing to see how much I'm saving there.
Genuine L series trailing arm with all drum brake fittings included = 15.4kg
The new fabricated trailing arm with heims and Crossbred hub fitted = 16.8kg
Liberty rear disc rotor ads 5kg so now 21.8kg without caliper.
Double Moustache bar without the ends on it = 6.6kg
New fabricated diff hanger = 5.6kg
R160 rear diff = 24.5kg
L series trailing arm mounting tube that I'm not using = 13.4kg
Still need to weigh the original torsion bar housing to see how much I'm saving there.
Settlement Creek Racing
- brumbyrunner
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- brumbyrunner
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- Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:00 am
- Location: SEQ
- Outback bloke
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- Captain Obvious
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- Location: maryborough
hahahah good one brett, maybe he will let you have a go after finke!!??Outback bloke wrote:I think it is about time I had a turn in the loud seat. Not the stupid seat and I promise I won't break your clutch again. Looking good mate.
stuart, did you go solid mount on the diff just to keep it simple? i imagine there would be a fair bit movement in that area thus needing rubber mounting?
bryan
[SIGPIC]http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/image.php ... 1468060434[/SIGPIC]
The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS
The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS
- brumbyrunner
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- Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:00 am
- Location: SEQ
bluesteel wrote:fark.... looking solid now!
i like the room for adjustment with the 3 holes too!
maxxair wrote:nice mate. that looks like some well thought out structure there. should be strong enough by the looks.
Boys, I hope so. Sometimes when I look at it I think it should be stronger. Time will tell.
You want to drive it? You'll only hurt yourself!Outback bloke wrote:I think it is about time I had a turn in the loud seat. Not the stupid seat and I promise I won't break your clutch again. Looking good mate.
Simple? Yes, i suppose so, but stronger and better. It does get a lot of movement in a std configeration. The diff slaps around under hard accelaration. Just ask anyone with a WRX powered MY. But I don't think that requires it to be rubber mounted. On the contrary, you need to limit the movement because it's wasteing energy (power). No doubt it will be harsher/noiseier/vibrate more and I wouldn't do it to a road car.Captain Obvious wrote:...did you go solid mount on the diff just to keep it simple? i imagine there would be a fair bit movement in that area thus needing rubber mounting?
Settlement Creek Racing
- brumbyrunner
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I like your work there, and it dose look strong, you have done some real good work there, one can see that you have spent some long hours under there thinking about this and it shows in your work.
nothing will stop you now, if its in your way "JUMP IT"
Rik.
nothing will stop you now, if its in your way "JUMP IT"
Rik.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Im now all grown up to an outback with a 2" lift and outback struts, ready to go off road and take on the world.