Ruby Scoo’s epic build, ten years and counting...

[El_Freddo]

when are you heading back to Bullock Link Tr hahaha

Hadn't thought about it... until now It's probably best to check the forecast before we go there again! And pack a chainsaw/winch etc...

Awesome work mate. I'm glad you've finally got it in the car!

Me too! Can't wait to have Ruby Scoo and the big green machine together in the Wyperfeld again. Could be just a two car convoy again

Awesome work mate. thats gotta be the best gearbox in an L series by far

Agree with that, can't wait to have it all hooked up properly to really give it a red hot go offroad!

Couple of next time suggestions though.

where's the extended breather on your rear diff? i know you like river crossings!

and you should have fitted outback speedo gears while you had the box apart!

Rear diff breather - to do list - wasn't a priority during the drive train swap as we were on a time limit. But plans are in motion for this!

There was some debate about the speedo gear before the build. I originally planned to get a 4.11 diff ratio speedo gear from a forester as it runs basically the same tyre size I'm running. But my gearbox builder reckoned there was a change in the number of turns on the drive gear on the lower gearset from the EA series to the EJ series.

So we went with a 3.9 ratio gear. We got that one wrong. But we'll see what happens there...

Nevermind the vice... His calendar on the wall is not working anymore! Probably still saying May 2007...

Well, she's still easy on the eyes so I guess it's still working...

put 4 of them monster truck tyres on it. then the speedo will be accurate

Problem is I actually need to go to smaller tyres to match the speedo! But for ground speed to revs at 100km/h it's exactly where I want it!

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

So I've realised in my excitement of having the gearbox installed that I've forgotten to thank a bunch of people:

First off, Mrs El Freddo who's put up with my crazy planning/ranting/chasing parts over the time of this build. Venom for the talk and info on the LSD. Subaruby for helping me out when I was in need of a replacement centre diff, and for collecting other parts for me at the same time - everything you've done for me (and the family) I'm very greatful for!
Rick who probably is never here, thanks for the gearbox building! Sorry it took me so long to get bits sorted.
Vince, a local mate from our uni days - thanks for the advice and use of your facilities - without them the swap would have been so much harder!

And to anyone I've left out, I apologise!

The gearbox is going well to and from work, I really need to take her for a spin properly! There's a tiny whine in second gear but other than that all is good once warmed up, it's pretty tight when cold!

Last weekend I picked up the vacuum solenoids for the diff lock. Hoping to get these in this weekend. Still need to sort out the low range lever!

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

As Toonga posted in some other thread I've also followed his move to buy the $16 fleabay headlight wiring upgrade - it's pretty much plug and play, the only modification I made was a set of fuses to protect the harness and ultimately my vehicle. I've not linked the item as that link and image will eventually disappear with the way fleabay operates.

Huge improvement in light output over stock wiring - so much so that I'd be confident to drive on the stock lights now. But I still love my driving lights so it only adds to the output there too. I also sorted out my driving light wiring properly so they don't come on when I've got the stock lights off, ignition on and the driving light switch on. One wire was the issue!

Also if I have an issue with this wiring I've got one plug to pull and two to connect and I'm back to stock.

Now I've got a "small" list of things to do, but during the week I've managed to get the diff lock solenoids wired in - got it the right way around the first time.

Note to anyone installing the L AWD gearbox: Fit the vacuum lines to the diff lock diaphragm before you install it on the gearbox OR before you fit the starter motor - otherwise it's one VERY PAINFUL job to complete! I found out the hard way!

Next:

Alternator swap - going to see if the square plug alternator can keep up with my touring demands as the round plug one doesn't get a good charge going once warm and loaded up.

Hook up the low range lever - the gearbox I'm using was converted to a dual range some time before I got it, but the rod assembly wasn't installed as factory so no holes drilled in the centre diff housing. I opted not to have these drilled in as I was planning on running the EJ series cable and lever setup on the L series lever - but that doesn't work! So plan now is to make a solid rod to operate the low range lever, even if it's temporary for this upcoming trip.

Finish off the oil feed to the low range gearset. When I did the diff lock wiring I included the wiring to operate the pump - so now it's a case of getting the pump and plumbing sorted.

And to finish off: Set up the camping gear ready to go.

Looking forward to it!

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Time for a new bash plate I think:



So that this never happens!



^ I reckon I got lucky here. I've been driving around like this for about three weeks - I pulled out a couple of bits of stick too. Lucky the cam belt didn't snap out bush!

Got a few other things to sort out too - leaking rear main seal on the gearbox, only just did the one on the previous box But for a ~$5 seal I can't complain.

Going to be fun - I've really wanted a new bash plate! Just time and materials again!

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Today Ruby Scoo had her snorkel finally completed - it was currently "just for looks" as I was super (too) keen to get it on her to see what it looks like!

Thanks to my mate Vince for his help again - I'd be no where near this stage without him!

Here's the original adaptor piece from when we first looked at it:





In the hot sun I didn't get multiple angles of the same piece after the modification it withstood today:



Here it is fitted without the guard:



^ Next time I have the guard off I need to put the wiring over the top of this pipe work... next time...

Fitted with guard and snorkel all hooked up - very happy with the results!



While I had this out I shortened the end that's in the air box. The adaptor also copped a lick of matt black paint just to make it look good and stop rust (maybe).

There's less induction noise than what I was expecting - not a bad thing, the exhaust is loud enough!

I spent an extra $60 on this build, $50 for the 90 degree, 3 inch diametre silicone bend and ~$10 on two clamps. I think this brings me up to about $90 all up after you add the nuts and bolts I've purchased as well. Pretty bloody happy with that!

I can only claim that build price due to a mate's Brother, Jesse giving me the snorkel as he didn't need it - it was a hand me along from his mate!

Pretty stoked with the outcome:



Link to other snorkel builds.

Cheers

Bennie

[NachaLuva]

Very nice Bennie...bring on the rivers & bog holes!

[El_Freddo]

A lot has been happening:

Had a performance issue with the snorkel since having it hooked up properly - lagged big time up inclines at cruise - and that was un-laden!

Turned out that the AFM wasn't reading correctly as I had it disconnected for the snorkel fit out, then hooked it up after already starting the engine - I never got around to a battery dance to sort that out. It bugged me for a few hundred km before I did a battery dance down the street. Drove home like it had another 2 cylinders compared to how it did before!

Now she's got her AC system back together ready for gassing - the wiring checks out which is a positive step in the right direction!

A new windscreen has/is going in - it was badly sand blasted from about 8 years of service, and had a crack in it that I made while removing the dashboard a few months back. Glad I did it as I found more rust than I was expecting, it wasn't bad, just surface in each corner. I also tidied up a bit on each A pillar that was starting to stain the paint.

I've also fitted a set of other thermo fans - a ten inch and a twelve inch - they fit heaps better than my three fan setup and the pull loads more air with the "hand test".

Pics to come later when I get time. And when I say later it could be the new year...

Cheers

Bennie

[Rodeo4jake]

Good you got the power sorted mate, or I might have been able to beat you up the mount next time.
I gotta get my aircon gassed up again now. I let the gas out during my battle with the oil pump. Gotta say though, that this year I haven't looked to use it once while Ive been driving the Brumby.

Cheers Jake

[RSR 555]

I hope this dodgy snokel setup is failproof.. I'm not wanting any dodgy stuff on my L

Even though it might be a while before my L is on the road. I need to get the Outback built for August next year.

[Tweety]

snorkel looks great

[El_Freddo]

Good you got the power sorted mate, or I might have been able to beat you up the mount next time.

I can't have that now!!

I hope this dodgy snokel setup is failproof.. I'm not wanting any dodgy stuff on my L

Meh. You want the template guard or not?

snorkel looks great

Thanks mate It really sets off the car. I'll have to get that template guard for Paul, the day he sees it will be the day he'll really really want one like a 3 year old in the supermarket with a lollie they're not allowed to buy

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Pics as promised:

The windscreen was removed, more rust was exposed than what was expected, but it was repairable without the need for cutting and welding. The windscreen mating area was scraped clean of the glue that holds it in, then wire wheeled with a grinder wire-wheel Then rust bustered for a night before being wire wheeled back again for some patch work with Permaweld:



This side was the "worst" - a bit of a hole but nothing too serious. The Permaweld drooped due to the heat and me not being able to stick around to "supervise" its setting process:





This was left to set for a few hours (came home on my lunch break to do this!). It was then rubbed back smooth before a coat of red oxide was applied:



The area was masked off for a clean line:



The end result after letting it go tacky then removing the tape:



I then masked it off again the night after the above and painted in a black kill rust type paint. The result looked great - no pics, I can't remember if I took any...

The windscreen finally went in after a bit of a saga - it looks great! Just need to source another windscreen sticker:





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[El_Freddo]

And a couple of pics of the snorkel:



Just need to tweak the angle of the head as you can see:



Very happy with the result!

Cheers

Bennie

[Bantum]

Looking good ...



I notice you have relays under the gutter there, what are they for ?

Ciao, Bantum ...

[RSR 555]

Meh. You want the template guard or not?

Hahaha.. sorry.. yes I do

Where's the pics of the rust in your front window frame??? That's not rust !! That's a minor flesh wound

[El_Freddo]

Looking good ...



I notice you have relays under the gutter there, what are they for ?

They're an overkill that I used for the switching of the centre diff lock. I don't need them so I may use them for something else later on, but for now they'll switch the lock

Where's the pics of the rust in your front window frame??? That's not rust !! That's a minor flesh wound

It is a flesh wound compared to what WayneO's got The rust pics are on my phone...

The engine lifting has begun. But I need a higher hoist, seems the old A frame is getting old and shorter.

I've found lots of coolant leaks in various places, the most recent one is on top of the block at the crossover pipe on the passenger's side. I'm looking forward to opening this engine up and seeing what's going on.

Cheers

Bennie

[RSR 555]

Glad to hear about finding the leaking spots. I'd also look at making sure the radiator and heater core are cleaned out.

It's also a good time to check and replace any suspect hoses.. especially those 2 small hoses that feed cooland up to the throttle body.

[El_Freddo]

Down to a short block now. Those heads were a real PITA to get off.

I can't see any signs of a suspect head gasket With that said most head gaskets I've done are well and truly gone by the time I pull the heads off... One downer is that the bores look a little too shiny for my liking. Going to wait for dad to get home for his opinion before I do anything else. On the Crankcase ventilation system that has the PCV in the system, there's a hose that comes up from the crank into the intake - when pulling the engine out I noted that there was an oily mark at each joint and a bit of a streak into the throttle body - possibly blow by due to the glazed bores?

The engine is filthy too - there's so much muck under that intake manifold! Pics will show why cam covers are so important - they're coming later.

Been a good exercise so far. Hopefully all goes well when it comes to putting it all back together.

Cheers

Bennie

[RSR 555]

Some blowby is ok but when oil comes up, then it's probably time to hone and re-ring. If you can't see any hone marks then it's also time to rebuild.

Can't wait for the pics.. which reminds me.. must email Andy about some covers

[El_Freddo]

Some blowby is ok but when oil comes up, then it's probably time to hone and re-ring. If you can't see any hone marks then it's also time to rebuild.

Can't wait for the pics..

Pics:

The damaged cam cover and oil filter from the bucks weekend in October:



The damaged sump - the bash plate copped a beating and deformed into the sump. I'm not sure when this happened exactly:



Inlet manifold removed exposing this coolant leak:



Top of the engine filthy, you can't see it when the inlet manifold is installed:



This is why your cam covers and good seals are so important - mud/sludge flow off the block over the cam cover:



The cam belt was clean with no mud/sludge getting past the seal.

The heads took some work to remove after the head bolts were removed. I couldn't see anything obvious. Dad was looking for a cracked head - didn't find one but we found some suspect areas on the lower side of the passenger's head, the one under the coolant leak in the crossover pipe. Here we can see a tiny carbon trace into the coolant passages as indicated, the photo doesn't do it justice:



The bores:



This is why I thought they were glazed - you can see the reflection of the piston in the bore:




But...


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