Ruby Scoo’s epic build, ten years and counting...

The Loyale · Post by **The Loyale** » Wed Jul 16, 2014 6:37 am

Here are some photos of the Snorkel fitted to my wagon! First in the U.S to have a non-PVC snorkel on an old gen!

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:06 am

looks great! Love the lift too

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Jul 22, 2014 12:08 am

Looking really good Thomas! Now I'll have to adjust Ruby Scoo's scoop head angle as it still tilts in towards the cab a bit rather than flat like yours.

Also on tonight's drive home the steering became notchy - a sure sign that one of my steering knuckles is tightening up due to age and use... So now I'll have to work out a new unit, hopefully without welding anything. We'll see as it'll take me sometime no doubt to get it all sorted

Cheers

Bennie

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Aug 10, 2014 12:34 am

So I've been working out how to build a steering extension to replace the one that's now stuffed - the lower uni has seized up

The only way to get it to move is with the extension on a bench and a bfh, even then it's still difficult!

So what we have above from top to bottom:

1/ This is an L series adjustable tilt steering column and the uni joint in that tilt system

2/ Top part of an MY touring wagon tilt steering column with welded uni joint and matching spline at the steering wheel end (this changes to a fine spline on the L series)

3/ Uni joint and shaft below are the L series Manual steering setup, top uni joint is separate to the shaft unit, bottom is welded to the shaft

4/ The welded custom extension for a three inch lift - this is the unit to replace

5/ Impreza PS steering knuckles, factory welded together

6/ MY touring wagon PS knuckle and rubber disc

From this I've played around with two of the L series Manual independent uni joints (same as MY manual steering too

and the splined section on the bottom of the L series steering column to get this:

The issue is that the splined section is about 25-30mm too short for what I want to do. Need to find a solution and welding isn't an option. I'm going to look into a couple of places in town that might have the correct splined rod that could be used.

Another thought was this unit - very extendable!

Compressed (would need to cut the excess shaft to clear the uni joint):

Extended:

This unit came from a Toyota Tercel. The problem with this unit is that is uses a fine spline rather than the course one that Subaru uses. What this highlights is that there could be another make/model of vehicle that could fit the bill - just need to find it...

And a link to the thread with this post that's basically the same as this one...

Cheers

Bennie

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sun Aug 10, 2014 12:24 pm

One option is to find a workshop that can extend the splines on the shaft in the second pic.

Another is to remove 2 of the bolts on the MY rubber uni (#6) and insert a suitable length alloy spacer with HT bolts. This would be a pretty big spacer though, so the first option would be better.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sun Aug 10, 2014 12:40 pm

Extending the splines not such an easy job, they are a machined item with a specific profile and pitch a bit like a gear...a fair bit of work for a machine shop to set it up right would cost a fair bit.

I suppose the uni's aren't rebuild-able?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Aug 16, 2014 11:51 pm

NachaLuva wrote:Another is to remove 2 of the bolts on the MY rubber uni (#6) and insert a suitable length alloy spacer with HT bolts. This would be a pretty big spacer though, so the first option would be better.

Problem here is that I need two uni joints! And if I use two of the MY units it's too long! And I'll have two PS units that are then incomplete

I'm wondering if a factory outback would do the job off the shelf, but I'm not going to buy one to find out that it won't work!

Silverbullet wrote:Extending the splines not such an easy job, they are a machined item with a specific profile and pitch a bit like a gear...a fair bit of work for a machine shop to set it up right would cost a fair bit.

It's broached, not machined. Apparently this is when the shaft is pushed through a die. I've got the contact of a a guy that *might* be able to make up a splined shaft that I'm after. I need a solution before I can get on to this but it's certainly something I want to pursue as it could open up loads of things for others.

Silverbullet wrote:I suppose the uni's aren't rebuild-able?

Not rebuildable, but I've found a mob in town that can replace them with a holden rodeo unit. They've got a machine to press them out and press the new one in. $80 a unit.

NachaLuva wrote:One option is to find a workshop that can extend the splines on the shaft in the second pic.

Dunno if a workshop will do it. But for the interim I'm going to DIY it. And here's the reason why I'm comfortable with this: I need about 10mm extra on the spline for me to be satisfied with the shaft length. In theory on the shed floor I could get away with just that splined length but I'm not comfortable using it this way.

The area that I'll be creating the spline on will be in one of the longer bolt tightening parts - the section of the uni joint that is mounted towards the steering wheel, it'll be the same on your subi. So the clamping area will be more than half factory spline, the rest will be what I carefully create. Hopefully I don't stuff it as my other column to stuff around with is some distance away

Looking forward to getting Ruby Scoo back on the road again! Dad needs her to get by for a while - that'll be interesting

Cheers

Bennie

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Sep 07, 2014 12:29 am

A bit of redneck engineering recently to sort out this problem - the horn positive wire contact had worn down so far that it only worked when mid left hand cornering:

This was my fix - and it was a perfect fit. It's solved the issue, now to see how long it lasts:

I've also returned to road tyres - first time for a long time. These will be the tyres I run for the next trip. It doesn't look very good for the "offroading image" the Kumho's gave her:

Cheers

Bennie

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sun Sep 07, 2014 11:58 am

What is that you used for the contact?

Don't worry bout how she looks, its how she goes that counts!

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Sun Sep 07, 2014 2:02 pm

He used something that may be out of your vocabulary NachaLuva, a 22 bullet shell

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sun Sep 07, 2014 9:54 pm

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Oct 19, 2014 9:18 pm

tambox wrote:He used something that may be out of your vocabulary NachaLuva, a 22 bullet shell

And it works a treat! Horn anytime I want now

Those LT tyres a crap in the wet! I thought the 4wd muddies could be skatey in the wet, well, these ones take the cake and have scared me several times - particularly at speed. Really NOT keen on them and this will be the last time I get these, I'd rather cruise around on the more expensive muddies...

I also felt on the desert trip that the roadies weren't as good as the muddies - there were hills I could make last year with the muddies that I couldn't this year or I had quite a number of attempts to do it.

The N13 Pulsar radiator went well offroad in the sand with the warmer weather - even when one thermo fan died it got hot but with a bit of water spray it was very quick to cool down again - and with a bit of air flow with vehicle speed at 40km/h or more it looked after itself.

Cheers

Bennie

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sun Oct 19, 2014 9:34 pm

I agree those tyres didnt do so well on the sand but I did notice they were very narrow. Also I think you would have had more weight this time lol

I have a few good vids of you bogging down on steep dunes, esp that lookout

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Oct 19, 2014 10:13 pm

NachaLuva wrote:I agree those tyres didnt do so well on the sand but I did notice they were very narrow. Also I think you would have had more weight this time lol

I have a few good vids of you bogging down on steep dunes, esp that lookout

I'm keen on the muddies again! BRING THEM!

Cheers

Bennie

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Sat Oct 25, 2014 12:53 pm

Hey Bennie, maybe I've missed a post or several but howd you go with the Hi/Lo range selector on your super duper gearbox? I'm assuming you used the cable from a Lib/Imp setup.

Cheers
J.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Oct 25, 2014 9:50 pm

FujiFan wrote:Hey Bennie, maybe I've missed a post or several but howd you go with the Hi/Lo range selector on your super duper gearbox? I'm assuming you used the cable from a Lib/Imp setup.

I'm not sure that I detailed that bit. My original plan was to use a cable from the liberty but it was too long and trying to adapt it to the L series low range lever seemed impossible (nah, just cbf'd!).

What I ended up using was a solid rod that joined to the end of the stock lever. It's crude and I've been meaning to do something about it as it involves a piece of right angle iron with a tab welded to the low range selector fork end for it to attach to. In the middle is a bolt to the stock rod up to the selector lever. And to stop it all bending is a cable tie on the over lap of the RHS with the rod.

Crude but effective. I might get around to doing something about that one day.

In other news, I got around to replacing the dead thermo fan with a new one from r.e.p.c.o who really aren't themselves this week - I got it at half price!
I fitted it, got it going and was pretty happy. Then I noticed on the old one that there was a direction arrow on the fan that was pointing in the wrong direction. I'd had the bloody thing running the whole time with the fan blade on backwards!

I presumed it was setup for pulling, not pushing - so I read all the packaging of the new fan and it said it was setup for pushing too. Off it came and sorted out, still have to check a few things out as it's not quite right atm.

I've also added a small fan to the AC condenser - I had one laying around and the wiring was already there. I'm hoping this will help increase air flow over the condenser and thus allow my AC too be cooler this summer. I've also got to sort out my air ducting - can't select recirculate or the direct air out of the dash atm.

Now waiting on a new front drive shaft from FROG and a set of rear shocks I'm going to give a go. More details on these in the coming weeks

Cheers

Bennie

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:52 pm

El_Freddo wrote:I'm not sure that I detailed that bit. My original plan was to use a cable from the liberty but it was too long and trying to adapt it to the L series low range lever seemed impossible (nah, just cbf'd!).

What I ended up using was a solid rod that joined to the end of the stock lever. It's crude and I've been meaning to do something about it as it involves a piece of right angle iron with a tab welded to the low range selector fork end for it to attach to. In the middle is a bolt to the stock rod up to the selector lever. And to stop it all bending is a cable tie on the over lap of the RHS with the rod.

Crude but effective. I might get around to doing something about that one day.

Well, I might have the time and opportunity to do something about this crude rod setup I'm currently running due to this:

^ First on left and second gear on right, top (input) layshaft gears.

^ Bottom layshaft's second gear. First gear does not have any visible issues or marks.

The above was found after having to pick up Ruby Scoo from Orbost - this is where I left her for a week, the guys here were really good and easy going considering we were in a rush when we asked them - they were about to knock off for the day when asked if we could leave the vehicle there! I left Shepp at 6pm, arrived Orbost at 1am, slept in the car. About 9am:

^ Can't thank those guys enough. Had a good chat when picking up the subi - there was no judgement which was the best part about it

And this is outside their main pub in town because I could while I was there:

I had a few stops but generally had a good run back to M&D's place where we dropped and stripped the gearbox. The weather was great and I forgot how picturesque the country out there is - I really enjoyed that part of the drive!

Back in my home town - one of the most prominent buildings in town:

I'm yet to get a trip report done for this event, it is in the pipe line!

I'm also looking forward to getting this box back together and Ruby Scoo back on the road for the next big trip...

Also, I can get more pics if others want. I've got some of the oil feeders over the low range but they turned out too dark so I'll have to get more of that setup...

Cheers

Bennie

Venom · Post by **Venom** » Wed Nov 12, 2014 5:55 am

So Bennie how was the cooling with thermos all going the right direction? Would be nice if you didn't have to pull up and lift the bonnet for a cool off. Funny how many of us stuck a hand behind your radiator to check air flow? I know I did a few times.

Do you have the inspection plate fitted to your gearbox?

Glad you got yourself and car home safe!

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Wed Nov 12, 2014 11:27 am

Yeah very glad you got yourself & the car home safe.

I wonder if the broken 1st gear was from pieces of the 2nd gear?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Nov 12, 2014 6:07 pm

Venom wrote:So Bennie how was the cooling with thermos all going the right direction? Would be nice if you didn't have to pull up and lift the bonnet for a cool off. Funny how many of us stuck a hand behind your radiator to check air flow? I know I did a few times.

I forgot to mention these in my above post, sorry!

With both thermos the temp rises then stays for a bit then falls again and usually did that for the trip. It'll be awesome once I've got a proper temp gauge again. I'm starting to wonder if the L series factory gauge actually follows the EJ sender closer than people give it credit for - I've only ever seen the temp gauge up at half since the new radiator setup. This still doesn't tell me what the temp actually is though so I'm only assuming!

Pretty happy with them though. Keen for a hot trip now. Just need to sort out my poor air ducting under the dashboard - things get cool under there with the AC on but it doesn't do much for passengers

Venom wrote:Do you have the inspection plate fitted to your gearbox?

The one on the bottom of the bell housing or the one on top of the gearbox? Both are there. I'm confused...

NachaLuva wrote:Yeah very glad you got yourself & the car home safe.

I wonder if the broken 1st gear was from pieces of the 2nd gear?

I'm glad I got home safe too! It was a huge trip to be done in such a short amount of time!! It was basically like driving to Adelaide and back again within 24 hours... Glad the VT broke a few weeks ago - the plastic heater tab let go in the drive way. Got lucky on that one I reckon!

Both the VT and the trailer drove very well. Better once Ruby Scoo was on board so that made the return trip easier.

I'm wondering what broke first - first gear or second gear? Either way 2nd is munched good. I saw a pic online of a totally shredded 4th gear! Do you think I can find it now?! nope

Cheers

Bennie