EJ into a Brumby

Any thing and every thing ever asked about how to do an EJ conversion to an L series and MY. Includes Brumby and Coupe.
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Alex
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Post by Alex » Fri Sep 09, 2011 2:49 pm

geez you two and your bickering!
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.

previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.

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niterida
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Post by niterida » Fri Sep 09, 2011 3:02 pm

I'm not bickering - just standing up for myself after he gave me a lecture when I gave him a legitimate suggestion. And he even had the nerve to give me another lecture after I rebuked his first one.......
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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gosurfun
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Post by gosurfun » Sat Oct 15, 2011 5:21 pm

Got used to the idea that Subaru's don't build torquey motors or ultra strong gearboxes, probably because of their short stroke/large bore ratio motors. Modded one of my bikes up to 1800cc (approx 1:1 bore/stoke ratio), even it produces more torque than a EJ20. The motor out of a big lump like a Triumph Rocket motor bike would probably be better for towing if fitted to the Brumby than a EJ25. The EJ needs a longer stroke crank in it for better grunt. The EJ motor looks to be made as narrow as possible already to fit in the engine bay (maybe thats the reason for the EZ asymetrical con rods, so the big end bolts clear the skirts on the opposite piston on the stroked, to finally get some grunt, 3.6 Tribeca motor?). The trip to the boat ramp has a maximum speed limit of 100 Km/hr all the way. The Subaru Brumby/Brat is useful in many other ways anyway, I'll put up with it fitted with a 100 Kw EJ motor, even if it only keeps up with a Corolla from the lights.

A Rotary was one of the first motors i considered for the Brumby but discounted it soon afterwards because its characteristics didn't suit my needs. I knew someone who put a Rotary motor in a little Suzuki 4WD about 30 years ago when the Rotaries first came out, 1/2 weight of the mazda with 1/2 the brakes! Two motors, not for me, my little boat has twin jets. A steering wheel, gearlever and two throttles is more than enough to try and control all once at times. Tired and studying for exams and shouldn't spending time here, got other things that need doing ATM.

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gosurfun
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Post by gosurfun » Fri Nov 04, 2011 7:27 am

Throwing out an old computer and found this link to a STI badged ute, not how I'd do it as a few loads or rough roads might see the rear suspension start to flex and crack out, but interesting all the same. Hope there was a drain hole in it somewhere to let the rain out.

http://htautos.co.uk/8.html

click on slide show on the bottom right.

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Macca
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Post by Macca » Sun Jul 03, 2016 11:22 am

I,ve done the same as you guys and converted a 91 brumby to a 91 forester EJ 20 and transmission. Have now done 2000 k,s in it and reckon it,s drivable. Took it back to mechanics to get a few bugs out of it and a polish, but all the blokes that drive it reckon it,s RS.


Biggest problem is the CLUTCH (ex Forester) very heavy as I left it mechanical with the cable . I read on another post here the different pressures for the different models ie L series 350Kg EJ20 450 Kg & WRX 650 Kg. Does anyone know the forester spec. and do you reckon the standard EJ20 pressure plate will cure the problem.
Thanks

Macca

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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Sun Jul 03, 2016 1:12 pm

Macca wrote:I,ve done the same as you guys and converted a 91 brumby to a 91 forester EJ 20 and transmission. Have now done 2000 k,s in it and reckon it,s drivable. Took it back to mechanics to get a few bugs out of it and a polish, but all the blokes that drive it reckon it,s RS.


Biggest problem is the CLUTCH (ex Forester) very heavy as I left it mechanical with the cable . I read on another post here the different pressures for the different models ie L series 350Kg EJ20 450 Kg & WRX 650 Kg. Does anyone know the forester spec. and do you reckon the standard EJ20 pressure plate will cure the problem.
Thanks

Macca
if you are going to have the box out do the whole thing, Just get a standard issue clutch kit like this.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/360402659558 ... EBIDX%3AIT.

The heavier the pressure plate the harder the clutch, when you have a cable.

TOONGA
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PJ Gone but not forgotten
JETCAR AKA the sandwedge Rusted in pieces

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Macca
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Post by Macca » Mon Jul 04, 2016 8:37 am

Thanks Toonga

Macca:

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Jul 04, 2016 10:18 am

Also check your cable to ensure it moves freely. If not then replace it.

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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Macca
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Post by Macca » Tue Jul 05, 2016 10:46 am

Bennie

Yes pal, new cable took a lot of adjusting until it settled down to right length.

Also the clutch lever itself has a massive spring on it I assume to bottom out the slave cylinder when the clutch is released. The original gearbox doesn,t have one at all.

I don,t find it that hard just that mechanic said it was the only disappointing bit of the conversion.

So I canned doing the clutch change at the moment as my mechanic has shut up shop temporarily. He did the conversion on it and I,m passed pulling motors/gearboxes now. I,ll get the lever spring done at the same time.

I,ll call into Shepparton on my way to Cobram some day and show you.

1991 Brumby just cracked 50.000 K.

Cheers Macca

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Tue Jul 05, 2016 6:19 pm

Yeah mate let us know ;)

What's the clutch setup you're running? A hybrid cable/hydraulic?

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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Macca
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Post by Macca » Thu Jul 07, 2016 2:46 pm

Stuck to cable
Couldn't see how you could get a Hydro in behind power brake unit.
The reason is the slave cylinder on top of the bell housing would be higher than the master cylinder so fluid would drain back to the reservoir overnight as they are only cup seals in the slave cylinder and you would get air into the slave cylinder. Ford mustang mods have a reservoir lifted on a stem to alleviate this problem. Changing the clutch and removing the lever spring should remedy the problem. I hope
Macca

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Thu Jul 07, 2016 5:27 pm

Are you runn
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Thu Jul 07, 2016 5:29 pm

Are you running a four bolt or eight bolt box?

The later eight bolt boxes have two positions for the clutch fork pivot ball. I can't remember which one I used. My clutch in Ruby Scoo isn't light but isn't ridiculously heavy either.

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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Macca
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Post by Macca » Thu Jul 07, 2016 6:18 pm

Bennie
no idea which one I,ll check.

Macca

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legacytt
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Gearbox

Post by legacytt » Fri Jul 08, 2016 6:30 pm

Good point El Freddo. If you are using a cable setup and haven't moved the pivot point from a hydraulic setup it will be quite a different leverage. I have converted from cable to hydro on an early Lib box and had to remount the pivot 'ball' to the higher position for it to work, so you may have to go back the other way.
Gen 1 Legacy GT 3inch lift and 28's

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