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Was the EA82 dual range box from an EFI model?

Also.. very hard to see your pictures.. they are very small (or is it just me?)

The dual range was the original from my 1986 carb l series. It will be handy for axles being a 25 spline. I noticed the axle shafts are thicker than 23 spline items ive seen pics of. I have a new genuine front axle I bought for a non turbo xt. it has the same inner and outer spline count, but a thinner shaft.
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We must have got turbo xt axles in the front of the 4wd l series over here:D

Also.. very hard to see your pictures.. they are very small (or is it just me?)[/QUOTE]

sorry, I was cropping the pics cos I had trouble uploading full size

From what I've found in Aus over the years it that...

1 band on the shaft = 2WD
2 band on the shaft = PT4WD
3 band on the shaft = EFI (incl turbo) and FT4WD

But this could be different around the world.


BTW.. this last picture looks a good size

^^ Really? Never knew this - never looked at those bands before to be honest!

Cheers

Bennie

El_Freddo wrote:^^ Really? Never knew this - never looked at those bands before to be honest!

Cheers

Bennie

This is only what I've noticed (on MY and L.Series) over the time I stripped them down in the wrecking yard in Japan and Aus. but I never seen any documents from FHI to support this.

The later EJ ranges seemed to use a similar pattern but the 2WD shafts were much thicker than the AWD ones.

I disassembled the ej dual range trans today , and have both bare front casings in the back of my dad's jeep so he can get them steam hosed tomorrow when I'm at work.
I think I went about it an awkward way, and would like some advice from someone who has done the reassemble if possible.
First off , I removed all bolts holding the front two case halves together, then undid all the bolts holding the front halves to the middle section. Then I got the bonds cracked on the front casings, and got a gap to open between them and also a gap between front and middle sections. It was through this middle gap that I could see two bolts holding the gear shafts to one of the front half casings. I managed to get these undone with a twelve spanner, but realise there has to be an easier way that involves less manoeuvring of the trans. My fear is damaging or displacing some of the components on my ea box.
I also came across the dedent ball bearings holding the selector rods in place, should these possibly be removed first off before doing any other dissambely of the trans? I have searched this evening and can find nothing really satisfyingly informative. Any help or links would be greatly appreciated guys.

yobhgareb wrote:First off , I removed all bolts holding the front two case halves together, then undid all the bolts holding the front halves to the middle section. Then I got the bonds cracked on the front casings, and got a gap to open between them and also a gap between front and middle sections. It was through this middle gap that I could see two bolts holding the gear shafts to one of the front half casings. I managed to get these undone with a twelve spanner, but realise there has to be an easier way that involves less manoeuvring of the trans. My fear is damaging or displacing some of the components on my ea box.

You should really grab a copy of the workshop manual if you've never pulled one apart before but the best way to dismantle these boxes is to start from the rear and take one section off at a time, then you should be left with the 2 front halves, which can be split by laying down on the LH side and lifting off the RH side. This should leave the gear sets complete and you can pull out them out off the selector forks.

yobhgareb wrote:I also came across the dedent ball bearings holding the selector rods in place, should these possibly be removed first off before doing any other dissambely of the trans? I have searched this evening and can find nothing really satisfyingly informative. Any help or links would be greatly appreciated guys.

You shouldn't need to pull out the selector rods, so the detent balls can stay in, unless you are planning to change the selector forks.

Thanks for the help RSR 555 , but I decided to get a local guy to do the rebuild for me. I can watch him, so it will be a good experience. I just don't want to ruin my 52k mile ea trans, getting another would be impossible here.
But im still progressing in other ares of the build. Ive just fitted a new timing belt kit today, and have cleaned the engine bay up. Heres the engine with new belt and bearings

Looking good.. just about snapped my neck trying to look at the pic though

I'll get those pics right yet. Heres another of the saab radiator in place. The rubber grommets from the old l series rad fit onto the dowels on the bottom of this rad also. I may be lucky to get one of the original holes for the lower dowels to work, but it won't be difficult to drill two if its nessecary for best location.
New holes have to be drilled for the top fixing points on the rad when I have it exactly where I want it
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Looks good in there but you really need to work on editing those pics before posting

or at least apologise like everyone else does !

Gees Paul, you usually welcome people not knock their photographic skills !

El_Freddo wrote:^^ Really? Never knew this - never looked at those bands before to be honest!

Cheers

Bennie

Disco was always discussing these bands to ID things, info is in factory manuals

steptoe wrote:Gees Paul, you usually welcome people not knock their photographic skills !

Not knocking.. just helpful suggestions

steptoe wrote:Disco was always discussing these bands to ID things, info is in factory manuals

Got any links or info on this?

yobhgareb wrote:I disassembled the ej dual range trans today , and have both bare front casings in the back of my dad's jeep so he can get them steam hosed tomorrow when I'm at work.
I think I went about it an awkward way, and would like some advice from someone who has done the reassemble if possible.
First off , I removed all bolts holding the front two case halves together, then undid all the bolts holding the front halves to the middle section. Then I got the bonds cracked on the front casings, and got a gap to open between them and also a gap between front and middle sections. It was through this middle gap that I could see two bolts holding the gear shafts to one of the front half casings. I managed to get these undone with a twelve spanner, but realise there has to be an easier way that involves less manoeuvring of the trans. My fear is damaging or displacing some of the components on my ea box.

It's pretty simple - remove the top plate on the rear housing section, find the 10mm bolt on the selector shaft and loosen it off so the selector shaft can move freely with that retainer arm being independent.

Then remove the rear housing bolts, the rear housing should move off easily after some gentle persuasion. Then attend to the bearing bolts holding the two cases together internally, then remove the external bolts to split the case including the input shaft bearing bolts - make sure you've removed the arm from the low range lever too. Have the dip stick side of the gearbox up to split the cases, this will allow the diff to remain in the other housing and make it easier/lighter to remove the half case.

To put it back together you'll need some torque specs for each bolt. Working out the diff backlash and preload is worth going to a builder for. With my first build I winged it and all was good. Second one was done by a guy who knew how to adjust the diff settings so they're correct.

yobhgareb wrote:I'll get those pics right yet. Heres another of the saab radiator in place. The rubber grommets from the old l series rad fit onto the dowels on the bottom of this rad also. I may be lucky to get one of the original holes for the lower dowels to work, but it won't be difficult to drill two if its nessecary for best location.
New holes have to be drilled for the top fixing points on the rad when I have it exactly where I want it
[ATTACH]4379[/ATTACH]

That's an awesome fit - the radiator outlets are 40mm as well? And this came from a 2 litre turbo saab correct?

steptoe wrote:Disco was always discussing these bands to ID things, info is in factory manuals

I need to get some factory manuals - but then again, I reckon I'm doing alright so far

Cheers

Bennie

Thanks for the transmission advice Bennie. I am having it done by a builder,
I might try it myself in the future.
Pretty chuffed with the radiator myself, took a few evenings of trawling
through ebay looking at all the rads for sale and reading dimensions
before I chose this one. It is indeed from a saab 900 turbo , the model
that came out in 1985.

The outlets are the same as ea82 radiator.

yobhgareb wrote:Thanks for the transmission advice Bennie.

No worries

yobhgareb wrote:Pretty chuffed with the radiator myself, took a few evenings of trawling...It is indeed from a saab 900 turbo , the model
that came out in 1985.

Sweet.

yobhgareb wrote:The outlets are the same as ea82 radiator.

Bummer - but might look into it as an option too. Looks like I might have a few options to follow now

Cheers

Bennie