My Touring Wagon EJ25 build, Part 2

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri Nov 04, 2011 9:59 pm

I seem to remember some one making fun of my duct tape boot fix on PJ

Have you tried to source another EJ25 ECU not sure if the plugs will be the same though

TOONGA

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Fri Nov 04, 2011 10:28 pm

TOONGA wrote:I seem to remember some one making fun of my duct tape boot fix on PJ
TOONGA

Where do you think the Idea came from:)

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Fri Nov 04, 2011 11:03 pm

guyph_01 wrote:Also noticed a Split inner boot on the front CV:( I did a temp fix on it and wrapped it in duck tape lol. At least it will stop the grease from going every where....

i did that with a white plastic bag and gorilla tape at each end. i had a few people try and tell me i had a chicken stuck under the car.

a lump of grease was making it sag at one end and being a white bag it was really obvious from behind!

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 1:19 pm

MTB92 wrote:i did that with a white plastic bag and gorilla tape at each end. i had a few people try and tell me i had a chicken stuck under the car. a lump of grease was making it sag at one end and being a white bag it was really obvious from behind!

hahaha

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 5:34 pm

Little update. Went to Dave this morning and got the dash taco working:) Had to cut the visit short as i had a coolant leak!!!!! NOOOOOOO!!!!

After inspection it was coming from the little flush screw Plug thing at the bottom of the Rad tank. So i thought, maybe i didn't tighten it properly?? Since i started driving the car it didn't leak and must have loosen from vibrations etc.
So i squeeze my hand in the tight space to get to it and as i wrap my fingers around the tab, it just breaks off and falls to the ground!!! NOOOOOOOO!!!! LOL

So now the bloody thing broke off flush and being a tight space the only way i can get it out is to take the radiator out. Ohhh and i'm at dave's, a 45min drive from my place!!

After some brain storming while the coolant, $60 Subaru Coolant:( , was slowly dripping away, Dave came up with an idea. GUM, Luckily i had some in the car and got straight away to mashing a few gums to a nice little sticky paste.

A few mins later we applied the gum over the leaking area and covering it with the famous Duck tape:) I then said a few prayers and headed home, along the way having a constant eye over the two temp gages.

Like Dave mentioned, the gum solidified and sealed the leak. I also thought of loosening the rad cap so no pressure would build up. By the time i got home the leak was fixed:)

Now i need to get the radiator out and remove the bloody broken plug:(
My first experience with bush mechanics:)

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 8:36 pm

and the engine problem?

Just remember for a fuel leak use household soap not bubble gum.

TOONGA

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 9:39 pm

TOONGA wrote:and the engine problem?

Just remember for a fuel leak use household soap not bubble gum.

TOONGA

We need to figure out the engine problem when paul gets back as Dave needs Pauls code reader.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 10:30 pm

guyph_01 wrote:Well it happened again:( It was running ok since it last happened although it is still hunting. Yesterday it had one major flat spot but then it was ok.

This time before it happened i took off the battery terminals to install a power source for my CB radio. Then i connected the battery back, the car started but as soon drive it and the revs get higher it wants to stall. Similar feeling to a boost cut.

I took the terminals off and will leave it over night again. Tomorrow Dave is supposed to work on it. Cross figures:)

Are you letting the engine idle for 5 or 10 minutes after having the battery disconnected to allow it to set the idle and work out some parameters before you drive off? I believe that this is pretty important to the economical operation of the engine. But it shouldn't be causing flat spots though.

Injectors been cleaned? Fuel pump in good condition? Immobiliser interfering with engine operation or the speed cutout doing something funky?

That's all I could ramble off - I need sleep after another 12 hour day at the races (working!!).

Cheers

Bennie

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:19 pm

After reading Venom's build thread, specially the new gearbox setup he just got in the car it got me thinking.
Initially i was planning to use a D/R AWD 3.9 gen1 Lib box, change it to 4.11 ratio and the L series lower range gears add a rear DCCD to it to be able to lock the center diff.
At the moment my car is running a std 3.9 D/R AWD lib box and the revs at 100 are about 2800.

This means that with the 4.11 ratio the revs at 100 will be higher right? Would they be much higher?

Now that i have the vortex AWD, Maybe i should build a 3.9 D/R AWD with the rear vacuum activated diff lock and L series lower range.

What do you guys think would be the better box??

Also, that oil feed, is it really essential?

Post by **Alex** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:44 pm

have you fixed the motor problem? I'll put my money on knock sensor. Itll make the car do some pretty weird stuff. (mine was stuffed and didnt even put up the knock sensor code)

alex

d_generate · Post by **d_generate** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 7:38 pm

I'm doing roughly 3,350rpm with 4.44's @ 100kph going by the GPS using the same box so I'd say maybe 3,050ish @ 100 but remember you're running bigger tyres which will push the speed up by 5 - 10%

I think 4.1 with DCCD & L series low range would be perfect.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Nov 16, 2011 9:41 pm

guyph_01 wrote:After reading Venom's build thread, specially the new gearbox setup he just got in the car it got me thinking.
Initially i was planning to use a D/R AWD 3.9 gen1 Lib box, change it to 4.11 ratio and the L series lower range gears add a rear DCCD to it to be able to lock the center diff.
At the moment my car is running a std 3.9 D/R AWD lib box and the revs at 100 are about 2800.

This means that with the 4.11 ratio the revs at 100 will be higher right? Would they be much higher?

Now that i have the vortex AWD, Maybe i should build a 3.9 D/R AWD with the rear vacuum activated diff lock and L series lower range.

I thought you'd already put this one to bed guyph! Seen something better eh?

I know, I get subaru envy all the time!

guyph_01 wrote:What do you guys think would be the better box??

Well it really depends on what you'll be doing. Over here, so far, we've built or been building our offroad subi's for a purpose - I'm sure you've been doing the same... The problem with a build purpose is that you can get easily side tracked!

guyph_01 wrote:Also, that oil feed, is it really essential?

The answer is no. Not essential - until you're doing climbs that makes your low range whine! It's a basic system that's easy to install that is there as a precautionary measure to help with the low range's longevity.

Plus it's a little bit gucci and an extra switch to play with in the cab

So when are we going to see some offroad footage???

Cheers

Bennie

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Wed Nov 16, 2011 9:46 pm

Yeah still got some thinking of what i want to build:)
Footage will have to wait till the 3rd and 4th. We are going as a big group:)

Venom · Post by **Venom** » Thu Nov 17, 2011 4:13 pm

I figure both the vacuum lock and DCCD must be better than viscous offroad, probably splitting hairs between the two for offroad performance. I liked the vacuum locker because there should be bugger all power going to the rear CLSD to lock it up on the road. DCCD is good if you want to adjust the power bias for onroad. I reckon stick with what is easiest and most cost effective to source.

As Bennie said the oil feed is not essential. Oil starvation of the low range gearset on long ascents/climbs is what kills the low range 9 times out of 10. If you've got the box apart its relatively easy to do and its a good precautionary measure.

If you go the vacuum lock then the rear section of the gearbox will be L series, which means you can use the stock L series gearbox mounts and crossmember. Thats kinda neat, and it also eliminates the adapter plate if using the Lib front section behind an EJ.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:38 pm

Venom wrote:If you go the vacuum lock then the rear section of the gearbox will be L series, which means you can use the stock L series gearbox mounts and crossmember. Thats kinda neat, and it also eliminates the adapter plate if using the Lib front section behind an EJ.

This is what I'm running at the moment with exception to the locking centre diff - instead I'm using the common L series PT4wd gearbox internals and rear casing. Works a treat - you get to keep the factory EJ clutch and flywheel so parts are easy to find and there's no need to beef anything up for the EJ.

Cheers

Bennie

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 2:07 am

Oh so wished mine was going

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 11:21 pm

RSR 555 wrote:Oh so wished mine was going

I wish my centre locking diff gearbox was going!

I love the way we all drag each other along with our builds in progress!

Cheers

Bennie

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:37 pm

Guyph, how's that touring wagon going for you?

Got any more eye candy to load up for us??

Cheers

Bennie

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:28 pm

Been driving mostly everyday, still has the rev issue. I'm broke at the moment because of the jetski and boat so no changes.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 10:47 pm

guyph_01 wrote:still has the rev issue

STILL ?? did you end up using both O2 sensors?