Bianca Engine Work

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:07 pm

TOONGA wrote:Looking really good but...

1. how old is the water pump?

2 Do you really want to destroy all that work for the sake of a 70 dollar part?

Yep, worth the effort!

Am I getting my wires crossed with Silverbullet's "twin port" EA81s or were you only doing the stock EA81 head gasket? Or was it a complete rebuild? My head's fried

Looking good mate!

Cheers

Bennie

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:23 pm

El_Freddo wrote:Yep, worth the effort!

Am I getting my wires crossed with Silverbullet's "twin port" EA81s or were you only doing the stock EA81 head gasket? Or was it a complete rebuild? My head's fried

Looking good mate!

Cheers

Bennie

We both did a full rebuild! A drag race is yet to be scheduled

Yep looking great Cam, you'll probably have yours running before mine, hehe

Curious about taking the rocker gear off after each torque step though, taking the gear off to adjust tappets?

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:33 pm

Yeah complete full rebuild with porting etc.
No idea how old it is but it looks pretty good inside and Daniel said it was alright so yeah...
Il think about it.
Yes a drag race will be scheduled once both cars are running.
But not an illegal one...

Cam

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:35 pm

Silverbullet wrote: Yep looking great Cam, you'll probably have yours running before mine, hehe Curious about taking the rocker gear off after each torque step though, taking the gear off to adjust tappets?

Yeah we didn't have steptoes funny tool for that one head nut.
We were slightly worried untill I read that when you adjust tappats you are supposed or can remove the rocker gear.
So let's hope I have some compression.

Cam

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:51 pm

Well I haven't heard that one before, I know you can take the rocker gear and 2 bolts out safely without effecting the seal once it's been established though. Shouldn't effect it much anyway I wouldn't think?

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:53 pm

Yeah that's what I'm talking about Sam. The gear and the two bolts.
I just hope my seal has been formed and secured.

Cam

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:55 pm

I've never heard of removing the rocker gear to adjust it! Seems a bit backwards to me!

Cheers

Bennie

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:58 pm

El_Freddo wrote:I've never heard of removing the rocker gear to adjust it! Seems a bit backwards to me!

Cheers

Bennie

Hmm yeah that's what's thought. I would have thought it would break your gasket seal.
Well we will see what happens when I turn the key.

Cam

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:03 pm

For some reason this reminds me of Dad telling me he had to pull all the rocker gear out of the MY when it was only 5 years old, the day after it was serviced by dealer, a day before he needed it for work; the dealer had taken all the gear out for some reason and put it back upside down i.e. the pushrod side on the valves and valve side on the pushrods...apparently it made a hell of a racket

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:03 pm

Brumby Kid wrote:Well we will see what happens when I turn the key.

I think you'll be right only because of what my dad said when he replaced 3 threads after torquing them up and they pulled. He used the same gasket each time another one pulled. It's now on another engine we ended up building for the job and is going well so far. His theory is that when the engine is in operation it's the heat that effects the headgasket seal, break the torque and you could break this seal too.

We'll see how long this engine of ours holds up

Cheers

Bennie

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:24 pm

Silverbullet wrote:For some reason this reminds me of Dad telling me he had to pull all the rocker gear out of the MY when it was only 5 years old, the day after it was serviced by dealer, a day before he needed it for work; the dealer had taken all the gear out for some reason and put it back upside down i.e. the pushrod side on the valves and valve side on the pushrods...apparently it made a hell of a racket

I'm sorry, he did what?!?!
Wow, that was err a slight problem. Maybe I could get a job there.

El_Freddo wrote:I think you'll be right only because of what my dad said when he replaced 3 threads after torquing them up and they pulled. He used the same gasket each time another one pulled. It's now on another engine we ended up building for the job and is going well so far. His theory is that when the engine is in operation it's the heat that effects the headgasket seal, break the torque and you could break this seal too.

We'll see how long this engine of ours holds up

Cheers

Bennie

Yeah I'm pretty confident with it. I think you dad might be right about the heat sealing it. The torque settings are pretty low. Commodores are about 100 and lots ft lb's.
The EA81's final was 40-70???

Cam

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 8:46 am

never had to remove rocker gear to do tappets, nor have I had to remove fully happy heads because someone dropped something down my carby - but I know a few people who have

a simple bit of duck tape or plastic lid off a peanut butter jar could save a lot of tears

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 9:34 am

Cam when I did my EA81 heads nearly 20 years ago, I torqued all of the bolts without the 2 rocker arm bolts on then I did the rocker arm bolts last. I was really worried that the gaskets would fail, but I drove that car like a stolen one for 3 years then sold it and it never had a problem.

TOONGA

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 11:29 am

Ahh excellent!
That is great to hear!
Would you re torque after operating temp and cool down?
I know we will adjust the tappets once hot.

Cam

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 8:49 am

I would check the torque once engine has hit op temp and cooled down - overnight is good length of time to cool down.

I have found genuin Subaru head gaskets on my EA82T's have not required another squeeze at all. After market HG's ahve always required a bit extra.

There are a few ways people or manuals say to retorque HG's

My trusted engine shop guy of thirty years or 45 years of his experience says do not let any tension off - just set wrench at spec and go for it at the sequence.
Gregories? maybe? , at least genuine manual says remove each head bolt re oil, twiddle and refit then torque up.
I now just follow machine shop guy and find genuine take nothin' more....
Think you are also supposed to set tappets cold ??

I set mine hot at 4 thou in and ex

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:01 am

I think we will just re torque without backing off.
They are monotorque gaskets.
Daniel said he sets them hot.

Cam

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 10:13 am

I have never re torqued a set of EA head gaskets during the initial build, I have checked the torque after a week of running the engine.

I did mine the way gregorys suggests which is 29 Nm for the fist step, then 59 Nm for the second step, then 64Nm for the final and in between each torque sequence I had a coffee

One of those fandangled spanners Jonno has, would be the ideal way to not have to remove the rocker gear on every torque step.

TOONGA

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 10:40 am

Ok a week might be it then.
Those were the torque settings I used and thought they were very low.
Yeah, couldn't find a fancy spanner.

So will adjust tappets hot (if nessecary)
Re torque after about a week (or once cooled down after 1 run)
Then put the weber carby on.
Lift kit install
Exhaust
Dyno.

It's a never ending list.

Cam

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 6:22 pm

Have fun adjusting the tappets hot, because it's bloody hot in there when the engine is at operating temp

I tried it once and kept jumping every time a sensitive part of the hand touched anything metal. Try adjusting them cold first, it's easier and you can take your time then if the engine runs quiet no need to fiddle again. Plus with a fresh engine rebuild you wouldn't want to have prolonged idling to get it up to temperature.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 6:54 pm

If you're doing your tappets hot I'd suggest going with a smaller gap. Generally the gap sizes you are given are for when the engine is cold. As the engine warms up the gaps become smaller through the expansion of the metals - it's not much, but when there's a few bits expanding it all adds up. Kinda like the way a bit of slop in mechanical brakes all adds up too (Just thought I'd drop that in here - mechanical brakes, sooo last millennia!)

Cheers

Bennie