Bianca Engine Work

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 6:53 pm

Good luck finding a driveable L series for $100 in Adelaide!

I think the driveshafts are the same between the two, same spline count.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 7:21 pm

Put out feelers - I have had people ringing me ! The Subie dealers parts fella chased me up on one customer heading back OS with a sweet Touring Wagon with a stuck thermostat - 3 weeks rego $250 some years back. Last one was dirty filthy and drove it home to - $100 owner not wanna fix the head gasket.
No need the CV shafts unless you are going the bluesteel track. Just the bits in the middl fly wheel back - rear diff only if ratio different to yours, console bits and shifter bits. The $100 one came with new near starter motor

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 8:04 pm

Ok cool.
More problems.
One of the threads for the head studs came off. Could only do it up finger tight.
The others don't look the best but are holding. We have taken them all out and are going to ring the engine builder tomorrow.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 8:51 pm

oooooh stripped head stud? that must have been a horrible feeling

Could you get the studs out of the block? If so replace that one at least, probably best to do all of them if you can since they stretch every time you tighten them up.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 9:07 pm

No no. The thread in the block.
I have new studs. And they are all out now.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 9:11 pm

Oh no even worse

Definitely see what Mr. Knight says, are heli-coils strong enough?

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 7:22 am

taza wrote:Nice!! Get it on a dyno when its all done and in the ute

x2

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 7:31 am

Brumby Kid wrote:Umm we were going to go 10:1 but I think it was just a bit too much.

Yeah ea82 with timing belts and that.

Phh put an ea81 in. No cert needed.
I chose to keep it on 91 for two reasons. Cost and availability. We were thinking about 95 but that is the hardest to get. Even in surburban / city areas let alone the country.
And 98 is way too expensive for me.
Yeah if we upped the compression and ran on 95/8 it would have given better performance.
But I didn't wanna have the extra fuel money, and don't think il need that power. It's the only thing power wise we haven't done yet apart from a snorkel.
Soon.

Cheers Cam

EA82 are known to have weak timing belts?
Or are they just a PITA to change, as I found out in April?

Really?
Maybe an EA81 is a good candidate then.

Does EA82 have any advantages over EA81,
other than higher peak power and peak torque ratings?

Do any EA81's come with air-conditioning and power-steering?

Fortunately I don't have to rely on my L Series much anymore.
My L Series is more of a play-thing now.

I want bigger tyres (205-70R-14 or bigger)
and I like driving at 15psi when in soft sand, so I need more torque.

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 7:39 am

littlewhiteute wrote:It's not just the compression ratio.

It's the combination of CR and combustion chamber design that determines minimum octane.

The EA81 has an inefficient wedge/bathtub 2 valve chamber that can't compete with modern 4 and 5 valve semi-hemi heads.

I know. I've heard of people reshaping the combustion chamber to resist detonation.

My 2008 Civic has 10.25:1 compression and is meant to be run on the lowest-octane petrol.
Better combustion chamger design and/or computer fuel/spark management.

rtcb65 · Post by **rtcb65** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 7:58 am

Silverbullet wrote:From what I've gathered so far for when I convert mine one big issue is the tailshaft (L series being 2 piece, fitting a center bearing carrier to the car) If you don't have any body lift you might need to bash the trans tunnel a bit. G/box mounts are slightly different between the two, some mods needed there, You need a combination of flywheel/pressure plate and mod the pedal box to suit L series pedal and cable. There's also the shifter linkages which some say need cutting and shortening but others have done it without changing them.

Cue Jonno, he's done at least one of these conversions

L 5 speed into Brumby.

showthread.php?t=11821

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 8:41 am

Thanks guys.
Yes EA81 did come with aircon and power steering.
Enough of the 5 speed for now.When the times right. ( and the money )

I'm turning my attention to these threads on the block.
We were more thinking about retapping them to a bigger size, which means new studs, again

.
Didn't even cross our minds about heli coils.

Cheers Cam

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:02 am

I had a mobile guy do one M11 thread repair in my EA81 block for a head stud in 2000 cost was $65. Generally you don't go bigger thread size as it wuill cause probs with stud supply etc

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:12 am

Ok thanks.
I think there m10.
No idea if you can get bigger studs or not.
Would a heli coil be strong enough?
First of all I will ring my engine builder and see what he says.

Cheers Cam

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:32 am

Nope , some will swear black and blue there is no such thing as M11 but there is and these are it. A helicoil is strong enough if not stronger, made of stainless I think. Lasted me 180,000km , outlasted the rest of the over revved little racer

YES Virginia (ask yer dad) you can wreck an EA81 other than by cooking one. Mine developed a ripper of a knock and the mains bearing in the midle started to reshape the blocks bearing journals , still never let me down though

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:03 am

Good news!!!
I rang tony knight this morning.
He said he had already heli coiled them.
So that means all I have to do is take it back down and he will re helicoil them.
Should be sweet!
Steptoe, my god you did what?
Technically you didn't kill it then did you if it kept running.
Ok it's m11, so my square lied to me.

Cheers Cam

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 12:44 pm

Yeah, slowly developed a deep rumble from deep within at the higher end of load and revs, replaced with an engine that now has 495,000km on it (not all mine for obvious reasons

) before it got serious and cost me a tow and clean up bill

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 5:50 pm

Of course there's an M11, there's everything from M1 up to...some very big threads

Good to hear you can get it sorted, I guess this might have pushed back your plans for this week a bit?

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 9:16 am

Yes yet again plans pushed back.
Originally I had planned for it to be done by my 16th in February.
Then we relised that there was more serious work other than a hg.
Then I thought before I go overseas.
Then before the end of school holidays, this week.
Now I don't know. When it'll get done. Life is just so hectic.

Cheers Cam

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 8:47 pm

She's just about done, just a few things to tidy up before we drop her in.
To do that weird positioned nut behind the rocker gear we took the rocket gear off after each torque stage and then put it back on. We hope it will still seal and it should as I read in the fsm that you are ment to take the rocker off to adjust the tappats.

A few pics.

Cam

Post by **TOONGA** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 8:57 pm

Looking really good but...

1. how old is the water pump?

2 Do you really want to destroy all that work for the sake of a 70 dollar part?

sorry

TOONGA

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Bianca Engine Work

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