Page 6 of 8

Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:53 pm
by Brumby Kid
Yeah that's what I'm talking about Sam. The gear and the two bolts.
I just hope my seal has been formed and secured.

Cam

Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:55 pm
by El_Freddo
I've never heard of removing the rocker gear to adjust it! Seems a bit backwards to me!

Cheers

Bennie

Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:58 pm
by Brumby Kid
El_Freddo wrote:I've never heard of removing the rocker gear to adjust it! Seems a bit backwards to me!

Cheers

Bennie
Hmm yeah that's what's thought. I would have thought it would break your gasket seal.
Well we will see what happens when I turn the key.

Cam

Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:03 pm
by Silverbullet
For some reason this reminds me of Dad telling me he had to pull all the rocker gear out of the MY when it was only 5 years old, the day after it was serviced by dealer, a day before he needed it for work; the dealer had taken all the gear out for some reason and put it back upside down i.e. the pushrod side on the valves and valve side on the pushrods...apparently it made a hell of a racket :rolleyes:

Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:03 pm
by El_Freddo
Brumby Kid wrote:Well we will see what happens when I turn the key.
I think you'll be right only because of what my dad said when he replaced 3 threads after torquing them up and they pulled. He used the same gasket each time another one pulled. It's now on another engine we ended up building for the job and is going well so far. His theory is that when the engine is in operation it's the heat that effects the headgasket seal, break the torque and you could break this seal too.

We'll see how long this engine of ours holds up ;)

Cheers

Bennie

Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:24 pm
by Brumby Kid
Silverbullet wrote:For some reason this reminds me of Dad telling me he had to pull all the rocker gear out of the MY when it was only 5 years old, the day after it was serviced by dealer, a day before he needed it for work; the dealer had taken all the gear out for some reason and put it back upside down i.e. the pushrod side on the valves and valve side on the pushrods...apparently it made a hell of a racket :rolleyes:
I'm sorry, he did what?!?!
Wow, that was err a slight problem. Maybe I could get a job there.
El_Freddo wrote:I think you'll be right only because of what my dad said when he replaced 3 threads after torquing them up and they pulled. He used the same gasket each time another one pulled. It's now on another engine we ended up building for the job and is going well so far. His theory is that when the engine is in operation it's the heat that effects the headgasket seal, break the torque and you could break this seal too.

We'll see how long this engine of ours holds up ;)

Cheers

Bennie
Yeah I'm pretty confident with it. I think you dad might be right about the heat sealing it. The torque settings are pretty low. Commodores are about 100 and lots ft lb's.
The EA81's final was 40-70???

Cam

Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 8:46 am
by steptoe
never had to remove rocker gear to do tappets, nor have I had to remove fully happy heads because someone dropped something down my carby - but I know a few people who have :D

a simple bit of duck tape or plastic lid off a peanut butter jar could save a lot of tears

Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 9:34 am
by TOONGA
Cam when I did my EA81 heads nearly 20 years ago, I torqued all of the bolts without the 2 rocker arm bolts on then I did the rocker arm bolts last. I was really worried that the gaskets would fail, but I drove that car like a stolen one for 3 years then sold it and it never had a problem.

TOONGA

Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 11:29 am
by Brumby Kid
Ahh excellent!
That is great to hear!
Would you re torque after operating temp and cool down?
I know we will adjust the tappets once hot.

Cam

Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 8:49 am
by steptoe
I would check the torque once engine has hit op temp and cooled down - overnight is good length of time to cool down.

I have found genuin Subaru head gaskets on my EA82T's have not required another squeeze at all. After market HG's ahve always required a bit extra.

There are a few ways people or manuals say to retorque HG's

My trusted engine shop guy of thirty years or 45 years of his experience says do not let any tension off - just set wrench at spec and go for it at the sequence.
Gregories? maybe? , at least genuine manual says remove each head bolt re oil, twiddle and refit then torque up.
I now just follow machine shop guy and find genuine take nothin' more....
Think you are also supposed to set tappets cold ??

I set mine hot at 4 thou in and ex

Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:01 am
by Brumby Kid
I think we will just re torque without backing off.
They are monotorque gaskets.
Daniel said he sets them hot.

Cam

Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 10:13 am
by TOONGA
I have never re torqued a set of EA head gaskets during the initial build, I have checked the torque after a week of running the engine.

I did mine the way gregorys suggests which is 29 Nm for the fist step, then 59 Nm for the second step, then 64Nm for the final and in between each torque sequence I had a coffee :)

One of those fandangled spanners Jonno has, would be the ideal way to not have to remove the rocker gear on every torque step.

TOONGA

Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 10:40 am
by Brumby Kid
Ok a week might be it then.
Those were the torque settings I used and thought they were very low.
Yeah, couldn't find a fancy spanner. :(

So will adjust tappets hot (if nessecary)
Re torque after about a week (or once cooled down after 1 run)
Then put the weber carby on.
Lift kit install
Exhaust
Dyno.

It's a never ending list.

Cam

Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 6:22 pm
by Silverbullet
Have fun adjusting the tappets hot, because it's bloody hot in there when the engine is at operating temp ;) I tried it once and kept jumping every time a sensitive part of the hand touched anything metal. Try adjusting them cold first, it's easier and you can take your time then if the engine runs quiet no need to fiddle again. Plus with a fresh engine rebuild you wouldn't want to have prolonged idling to get it up to temperature.

Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 6:54 pm
by El_Freddo
If you're doing your tappets hot I'd suggest going with a smaller gap. Generally the gap sizes you are given are for when the engine is cold. As the engine warms up the gaps become smaller through the expansion of the metals - it's not much, but when there's a few bits expanding it all adds up. Kinda like the way a bit of slop in mechanical brakes all adds up too (Just thought I'd drop that in here - mechanical brakes, sooo last millennia!)

Cheers

Bennie

Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 7:01 pm
by Brumby Kid
Ok, yeah Daniel said he could get it done really well hot by feel.
So il let him do that.
Speaking of brakes. Mum has raised some concern...
Not doing any conversions, just new parts. Eventually.

Cam

Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 12:06 am
by d_generate
No doubt once it's all up and running you'll be taking it out and whipping the head off it as often as you can. :razz: :razz: ;)

Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 2:55 am
by steptoe
Awsheetyeah it gets hot in there, especially as I'd reheat between sides. Those disposable gloves help - smell burning rubber before burning skin.

That fancy spanner may be 40 years old !!

Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:17 am
by Brumby Kid
Its been aproximatly 1 year 5 months since i bought the car.
It's been approximately 1 year 2 months since I shat the head gasket.
And It's been 8 months and 1 day exactly since the engine was removed.
Today we seperate the men from the boys.
Today we find who is the strongest to survive.
This day will be remembered by your children, and your children's children.
Because today, is THE day for greatness!




Just a little motivational speech for today. I'm slightly excited. :)

Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 2:05 pm
by TOONGA
Pics and video or GTFO

naaahhhh just pics and video :)

good luck with it Cam

TOONGA