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There has been a bit of interest recently about the camshaft so here are the specs.
Hope you guys are better at interpreting it then me.



Cheers Cam

"Valve Settings" is your valve/tappet clearance settings

You'll also need to check that your springs will allow for that much lift.


BTW.. I love the "Camtech Cams" for Cam

RSR 555 wrote:"Valve Settings" is your valve/tappet clearance settings

You'll also need to check that your springs will allow for that much lift.


BTW.. I love the "Camtech Cams" for Cam

Thanking you!
No idea how to check the springs but I'm vertually certain that they will be alright as Tony Knight sent it off, recieved it with those specs, and kept the old valves.
I asked him if they were ok and he said they will be fine.

It's a nice touch isn't it. I had no idea were it would be sent.

Cheers Cam

It's a baby cam.

The advertised timing although specified at .006 and not .000 like the factory cams would be, is fairly mild.

210 and 213 degrees @ .050 also says mild, I'd call it stage 1.

Bit disappointing that Camtech doesn't give you all the info on the card.

No valve opening/closing event points, no lift at TDC.

My maths says your timing is:
Inlet opens 12 BTDC, closes 56 ABDC
Exhaust opens 60 BBDC, closes 16 ATDC.

Ok, cool thanks Gary.
Knowing this, what would you set the timing to?
According to what Paul says, my valve/ tappat clearance is 0.015" set hot?

Cheers Cam

Brumby Kid wrote:Ok, cool thanks Gary.
Knowing this, what would you set the timing to?
According to what Paul says, my valve/ tappat clearance is 0.015" set hot?

Cheers Cam

Cam,

I'd set the cam timing using the factory marks since the cam grinder has ground the cam to allow for a
straight-forward installation.

.015 sounds a little loose for my liking with such a small profile.

I would set the lash cold at .010 to run the cam in, and recheck the clearances hot, .010 -.012.
Be aware that clearances affect valve timing, too loose is just as bad as too tight.

Really?
I gave mudking a shock when he said they were too tight.
It is currently at 8BTDC
Next Monday it is going in to get properly tuned and this is something I asked them to do.
Hmm might play around with these myself with mudking Sunday.
Currently it is set to whatever it was before the rebuild. An was good.
Now there is an almighty tapping sound.

Cheers Cam

and should start you young whipper snapper out straight - should be xpressing the timing as 8DBTDC @ 800rpm as 8DBTDC could well be a different static timing @ 750, 800 or 850 rpm - that's yer real reference in my opinion.

Then if you had points you'd see the timing would change (retard from memory),as your rubbing block wore down increasing points gap

Sorry Steptoe,
Assuming my rpm is 800, (bought a tachometer today)
What's the quick basic test for points vs electric dizzy?
I don't k ow what points look like, all I know is I think it's electric as it ha an electric module in it.
It has a rotor that spins at the top and makes the connection that way.
Photos of both?

Cam

If there's an electronic module inside the dizzy itself, it's electric ignition. Never seen points eh? I should say lucky you, you've never had to adjust them

I think I have a points dizzy somewhere. Just a set where your module is, not much difference. SCA still have points on display in their museum section . Surprised prices seem about 1980's ! Yeah, adjusting with feeler gauge , dwell gauge more accurate a way to compare yet their gap never seemed to match specs. I used to pay more for vented points as thoey had a hole in the middle so harder for them to ash up, the ash could disable you - no fire. The condensor could crap itself too

littlewhiteute wrote:No valve opening/closing event points, no lift at TDC.

Isn't the Lift at TDC (of the lobe) .227" and .232" ?

Brumby Kid wrote:Knowing this, what would you set the timing to?

Set camshaft in original mark on the crank (dot on camshaft pulley to line up with chamfered hole on crank).

As for ignition timing, set to standard 6-8 deg (depending on fuel type) but you can advance the timing then take for a run up a steep hill and listen for detonation (pinging), if nothing, keep advancing until you do, then just back off until it stops. High octane fuels make a big difference to the timing and once setup on them, can be cheaper (depends on your driving style) than running on standard unleaded.

Brumby Kid wrote:According to what Paul says, my valve/ tappat clearance is 0.015" set hot?

Yes that is what they want you to set them to, so I would stick to that. This will be the 'Cold' setting. This is only a difference of 0.004" Intake and 0.001" on the Exhaust. So little you'd barely notice it.

As Gary mentioned, reset them once you've run in the new engine, (IMO) I'd still leave if for at least 1,000kms before I would rest them. If they aren't noisy, I wouldn't touch them.

Brumby Kid wrote:What's the quick basic test for points vs electric dizzy?

Electronic Dizzy will have 2 wires coming out of it (from memory they are balck and yellow) and the Points Dizzy will have just the 1 wire coming from it (off a spade connector).

In that case mine is electronic.
ATM they are very noisy. (Set to standard EA81)
It's done 100km since the rebuild.
What should I set them to to run it in?
And then 0.015"?
I'm about to do them in about 4 mins.

Cheers Cam

RSR 555 wrote:Isn't the Lift at TDC (of the lobe) .227" and .232" ?

No, that's maximum lift at the cam lobe.

Multiply those figures by the rocker ratio (1.5) to get theoretical valve lift.
Actual valve lift takes valve clearance into account.

Valve Lift at TDC would be about .025 - .030.

from Jonnos EA81 build 2008 , tag for comparison.

The first time I asked for a 20/60 was in 2001 , ended up getting 16/56 .....was explained that 20/60 caused problems when fitting bigger tyres and going up roads like Mt Ousley (highway north outta Wollongong - Norman Gunstons hometown ) the motors lose their puff and he copped complaints so he pretty much automatically made the best decision for me as it turned out , by doing 16/56 , as I could rip up decent long haul hills with 400kg load on the tray as if nothing was in the back at all ! Then, with discussion and at my risk, the 2008 build for my uncles ute this tag is the result, so too a zippier EA81 =======, and into 2nd === getting 609km from full to splutter empty on highway runs, but cops it with loads and hills - starts to get a bit warmer in water temp and breathless



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and for victims of spelling nazi's - like the purchaser of the camtech tags (being the victim) - I remember separate only has two e's in it, has to be 2nd and last letters.
Gotta expect more from printers and signwriters surely ?

On valve settings - that 15 thou hurts my ears ! 15 thou hot !! man, 12 thou cold was bad enough !! In the end I did them my way ...4 thou hot both and that was a start up warm up again between either each cylinder or each bank, though run the risk of things getting tight and maybe a miss if let its temps get higher than half way on water temp gauge

steptoe wrote:On valve settings - that 15 thou hurts my ears ! 15 thou hot !! man, 12 thou cold was bad enough !! In the end I did them my way ...4 thou hot both and that was a start up warm up again between either each cylinder or each bank, though run the risk of things getting tight and maybe a miss if let its temps get higher than half way on water temp gauge

So my 0.015" is 15 thou... Are you suggesting that this is too big or small?
I do get a bit of a lifter/ rocker tap but just assumed this was normal.
Might play around with the clearances if you think I could go better, however the cam grinder did know the specs of the engine so would assume he could work out what was best

Cheers Cam

Brumby Kid wrote:So my 0.015" is 15 thou... Are you suggesting that this is too big or small?
I do get a bit of a lifter/ rocker tap but just assumed this was normal.
Might play around with the clearances if you think I could go better, however the cam grinder did know the specs of the engine so would assume he could work out what was best

Cheers Cam

15 thou hot would be waaay to big. I think 15 thou would be the cold setting. 1 thousandth of an inch is .025mm so 15 thou is nearly .4mm and if there was this much clearance at operating temp you'd have one hell of a racket!

1/1000th of an inch, is half of 2/1000th of an inch, every 1/1000th of an inch, gap gets bigger (by a bee's dick) so yeah kid in school that should be still fresh on fractions I reckon 15/1000 is a bit on the big gap side. Done my last ones at 6/1000 and 8 thou cold. Yet to drive it, started up, ran to op temp for HG retension and that's it so far.

I may need to correct 20/60 cam lift is 0.225" not 0.235" that I may have quoted, think that was rserved for the 16/56.

While on EA81 cam profiles, Willy has noticed the twin carb EA71 of 81,82 MY ran quite a big difference in its timing

steptoe wrote:so yeah kid in school that should be still fresh on fractions I reckon 15/1000 is a bit on the big gap side.

Oh shush you! I have a fancy calculator and deal with shares, investments, homeloans, and stats hahaha

What would your advice be? I don't want to burn out my valves. Would I be losing power as it is? (I hope so lol)
Will take a video on my big camera and upload a link for you guys to see what you think

Cheers Cam