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Posted: **Sun Feb 26, 2012 10:49 pm**

I'll be interested in 10 weeks no spending money on the brumby till I get back from Bali

Posted: **Mon Apr 02, 2012 8:15 pm**

Hey boys thought I would check in no photos but things have changed a little I removed a front cv took the shaft out and put just the inners an outers back in (now its rear wheel drive going to keep a spare cv for off roading as it doesn't take long to change).

Single slip wasn't that great so now I have welded the spline gears which is great fun in the dry but this first rain is making me question wether to leave it in I can't gear down it just compression locks and taking any acceleration around a corner it's opposite lock which can be fun but not worth the risk in safety and the law as fun as it is.

Future plan is to put the front cv in and remove a rear an just put the rear in for 4wd trips I think this is the best idea without removing the locker

Posted: **Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:16 pm**

Rumbl1n wrote:Future plan is to put the front cv in and remove a rear an just put the rear in for 4wd trips I think this is the best idea without removing the locker

This is definitely the go!

Just watch out for the trap that the welded rear can get you into - it'll get you to places you couldn't go before AND it will also get you stuck in places that are much much worse than you could find before!

Enjoy!

Cheers

Bennie

Posted: **Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:15 am**

How much of the Dangerous wet weather handling is the welded diff v rwd do you think?

Posted: **Wed Apr 04, 2012 8:33 pm**

stenno wrote:How much of the Dangerous wet weather handling is the welded diff v rwd do you think?

I think if it wasnt welded it would be fine but there isnt much point in making it rwd unless you lock it or get an lsd in my mind

Posted: **Wed Apr 04, 2012 8:48 pm**

my mate has a welded diff in his rwd drive car and its fine in the wet, although the car is set up for drifting....
can you weld the rear diff in the AWD subaru's or does this stuff up the center diff?

Posted: **Mon Jun 25, 2012 11:31 am**

Hey guys I've started building my lift kit I will be uploading a lot of photos as I go because I am building it quiet different to any one I have seen so I'll be glad to get some feed back (hopefully the first of the photos tonight if I can remember how to do it lol

Posted: **Sun Jul 01, 2012 9:26 pm**

thoughts welcome

Oh and i decided to run Mitsubishi triton rear shocks ill keep you posted on what the ride is like

Posted: **Sun Jul 01, 2012 10:04 pm**

Gone the same style as the SJR lift from the US?

My personal concern with that setup is that it's just a piece of C section, but I guess if the steel is thick enough and of good quality it shouldn't be an issue.

Looking forward to what you do with the front end

Cheers

Bennie

Posted: **Sun Jul 01, 2012 10:10 pm**

El_Freddo wrote:Gone the same style as the SJR lift from the US?

My personal concern with that setup is that it's just a piece of C section, but I guess if the steel is thick enough and of good quality it shouldn't be an issue.

Looking forward to what you do with the front end

Cheers

Bennie

yes same concerns would be able to flex to much and possible weaken or bend the c channel

Posted: **Mon Jul 02, 2012 8:11 pm**

Hey guys i also had the same concern but after discussions with my dad (qualified body builder) this method seemed alot stronger than using 140mm long bolts keeping in mind i have done 100mm lift not 50mm lift i will be keeping a close eye on it when i take it off road but given the wieght of the car i really dont see it being an issue and if it does become an issue i will weld some metal plate in the c channel as cross bracing.

I havnt see the SJR lift ill do some research but i am interested in how much they are worth so far the rear cost me $20 in bolts the c channel was scrap and had some paint sitting around the house so im quiet happy with that

Posted: **Tue Jul 03, 2012 1:21 pm**

Good looking job so far.
Just a question, if I may please.
I see you were running 14's before the lift install and they looked to clear everything OK.

What size tyres did you use?

I have a couple of different sets of 14 inch rim available to me (alloy & steel) and I am wondering what size 14 inch tyres will fit under a 92 Brumby without a lift kit.

A quick question here might save some issues at the tyre shop if I select poorly.

Posted: **Sun Jul 08, 2012 2:03 pm**

hey sorry for the late reply i have 195x75x14 and i had no clearance issues it has rubbed once or twice but nothing major hope that helps

Posted: **Sat Jul 14, 2012 7:26 pm**

hey here are some photos of the front lift the only issue i have left is i have the 4wd selector disconected because i cant get into reverse it gets in the way i really dont want to cut the floor pan so i may just leave it until i do my ej conversion for now you have to reach down and select 4wd lol

Posted: **Sat Jul 14, 2012 7:34 pm**

Rumbl1n wrote:

thats an interesting way to deal with positive and negative camber how thick is the slotted plate?

TOONGA

Posted: **Sun Jul 15, 2012 7:52 am**

I'm not overly concerned with the C channel flexing although it's not something I'd use to attach suspension to the body. What alarms me is the torsion bar spacers aren't joined. If you welded some material between the two spacers on each side, say a 3mm plate, it would assist in stopping the blocks from rolling between the torsion bar and the body (frame/chassis/monocoque...call it whatever). Be a lot stronger and a lot safer. As it is now, the captive nuts in the body will likely tear out.

What did you do with the radius plate spacers? Got any pics?

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Posted: **Sun Jul 15, 2012 2:26 pm**

The plate on the top of the strut is 6mm thick

Not sure what you mean by radius plate spacer

Posted: **Sun Jul 15, 2012 7:43 pm**

Rumbl1n wrote:The plate on the top of the strut is 6mm thick

That should be fine. The difficult part will be stopping your camber adjustment bolts from moving.

Not sure what you mean by radius plate spacer

The Radius Plate is the bracket that one end of the Radius Rod attaches to. It attaches to the body with three 10 or 12mm bolts (can't remember which).

I was serious about the torsion bar spacers as well. I wouldn't drive out of sight with it like that.

Posted: **Sun Jul 15, 2012 8:25 pm**

They are the smallest pieces of chanel in the whole job. I was hoping we could do those 2 in 1 piece but the offset made it to hard but welding something between them is a good idea I should of thought of it a piece of 75mm flat bar welded in will solve any issues

Posted: **Sun Jul 15, 2012 9:12 pm**

I'll be welding some plate in there asap i will take some photos under the front of the car tomorrow in the daylight... I took her for a wrap up at kwinana really pushed it kept a very close eye on everything no loose bots an nothing bent but i will still be welding a plate about the torsion bar even tho i had no issues.

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