Fitting disc brakes to my Brumby
- TOONGA
- Elder Member
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- Location: Australind closer to where they divided by zero
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Fitting disc brakes to my Brumby
This is how the arms looked when I picked them up
One of the callipers removed and the pads (metal composite and new)
The disc and hub both look near new (apparently the discs are 1000km old)
more to come
One of the callipers removed and the pads (metal composite and new)
The disc and hub both look near new (apparently the discs are 1000km old)
more to come
- AlpineRaven
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3682
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
famous battery powered rattle gun! Worth having eh..
Cheers
AP
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
- discopotato03
- Senior Member
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- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
- Location: Sydney
- TOONGA
- Elder Member
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- Joined: Sat May 30, 2009 10:15 am
- Location: Australind closer to where they divided by zero
- Contact:
Well the rain slowed down so I started the change over I got this far and now I know why I hate drums so much anyone for a brakefluid and brake dust cocktail both slave cylinders were like this and both drums are stuffed
The rain didn’t hold off for long so I improvised a flat pallet and a ladder hold up my golf umbrella
Why won’t the hub come off? Oh brakemud mmmmmmm.
An FRBH took care of that problem and cleaned all of the caked on rubbish off the control arm and coated me in nasty dust
Ok so I got the backing plate on anyone spot the problem
Why won’t the disc go on?
Once I removed the other half of the calliper the disc went on fine
The rain didn’t hold off for long so I improvised a flat pallet and a ladder hold up my golf umbrella
Why won’t the hub come off? Oh brakemud mmmmmmm.
An FRBH took care of that problem and cleaned all of the caked on rubbish off the control arm and coated me in nasty dust
Ok so I got the backing plate on anyone spot the problem
Why won’t the disc go on?
Once I removed the other half of the calliper the disc went on fine
- AlpineRaven
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3682
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Weather doesnt look good for you to work on, don't you have undercover? Looking good there!!!
Cheers
AP
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
- TOONGA
- Elder Member
- Posts: 5335
- Joined: Sat May 30, 2009 10:15 am
- Location: Australind closer to where they divided by zero
- Contact:
Nah for now there is a brumby shell in the garage once I get the gearbox out, the last of the bits I want and Jack gets what he wants then it will be a sorry shell on the ground
I slipped a 10mm ring spanner over the old brake line and removed it, its way easier than rounding the nut using an open ended spanner
New line installed it looks like it belongs there
Check the safety everything was held up by my el-cheapo jack and my super spacer
Yep that’s the right hub on the left side I didn’t notice until it was all together
All bolted up and ready for bleeding
once my wife helped me bleed the brakes (she was curious until she had to pump the pedal repeatedly)
I took the brumby for a test drive and the difference is amazing I can feel the brakes working all round and I actually locked the front brakes at one stage and the right rear locks up under extreme braking as for stopping distance it is nearly halved
whooo hooooo
TOONGA
I slipped a 10mm ring spanner over the old brake line and removed it, its way easier than rounding the nut using an open ended spanner
New line installed it looks like it belongs there
Check the safety everything was held up by my el-cheapo jack and my super spacer
Yep that’s the right hub on the left side I didn’t notice until it was all together
All bolted up and ready for bleeding
once my wife helped me bleed the brakes (she was curious until she had to pump the pedal repeatedly)
I took the brumby for a test drive and the difference is amazing I can feel the brakes working all round and I actually locked the front brakes at one stage and the right rear locks up under extreme braking as for stopping distance it is nearly halved
whooo hooooo
TOONGA
- AlpineRaven
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3682
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Looks at the jack.. covers my eyes...............
Cheers
AP
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
- TOONGA
- Elder Member
- Posts: 5335
- Joined: Sat May 30, 2009 10:15 am
- Location: Australind closer to where they divided by zero
- Contact:
wrxer they are waiting for you, its funny I was looking at them this morning thinking ah more metal to make wifey angry I then remembered your tracking problem, there are small cosmetic differences and Im not sure about the length but they look the same as the MY armswrxer wrote:toongs, whats the difference between the brumby arms and the lseries ones. will arms bolt into brumby, are they longer, or make track wider or do they bolt onto at different spots.
can i use similar arms in my brumby and get the lseries track width?
apparently there is a residual line pressure valve somewhere at the back, (there is a picture in the gregorys book, it is near the rear exaust?) the old adage "if it aint broken...." the master is the model with one main reservoir and 2 pistons?(standard brumby issue) anyway it works and works well so Im happy, on the highway yesterday I stopped to pick up a traveller and I braked like I normally did the brumby stopped so well I had to coast to him, before I would have gone past him.wrxer wrote: and where is the residual line pressure valve (rpl). normally in the rear output port of master cylinder. did you remove this, or if you didnt, was it a 4 wheel disc master cylinder, if so no wonder it had bad brakes before.
Im finding excuses to drive my car now as it no longer is dragging around its rear end and stopping way better
wrxer I just checked and the arms are longer and fit the same way "do the happy dance in Telfer"
TOONGA
- subybrumby
- Junior Member
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:03 pm
- Location: Toowoomba
Somebody a few posts back mentioned putting a new kit through the calipers. I know its a pain in the a*** when you just want to get back on the road, but I just put a kit through both front disc callipers on my brumby. Its easier than you think. Brumbies have a little bit more mucking about because of the handbrake adjuster but I did both at home without too much fuss. The kits cost me about $14 each and consist of the boot that covers the piston, the inner "square" profiled "O" ring and the "O" ring that seals the hand brake adjuster rod that comes out of the back of the piston. My brakes have come off a wrecking yard carcass and had been sitting for a while. One was a bit weepy so for piece of mind its worth doing. There is little chance of rust as the piston runs on the "O" ring rather than as drum brakes that have rubber cups running inside a shiny cylinder. I was really happy with the result and it is fairly well described in the gregorys manual. Worth doing for the little cost of the kit. Most tedious part was compressing the handbrake adjuster whilst you reasemble that component. The manual says you need a spring compressor but there is a way around it if you persevere.
- scoobymine
- Junior Member
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- Location: Vasse W.A
- steptoe
- Master Member
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- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
Just familiarising myself with this post, and drag it up again to the top.
Need to find myself a 10mm pipe spanner and the bleed sequence for Brumby, (where's my bloody manual?!) before I start my Pick-n-Pull Portland North, Oregon 97203 conversion.
Julian, an estimate of the time it took you including the dramas per side ? may also be helpful
I also notice that there is still what looks like another backing plate behind the caliper mounting plate. Is that normal to 1. even be there 2. to stay there (asks he too lazy or in a hurry to look at his own Brumby )
Need to find myself a 10mm pipe spanner and the bleed sequence for Brumby, (where's my bloody manual?!) before I start my Pick-n-Pull Portland North, Oregon 97203 conversion.
Julian, an estimate of the time it took you including the dramas per side ? may also be helpful
I also notice that there is still what looks like another backing plate behind the caliper mounting plate. Is that normal to 1. even be there 2. to stay there (asks he too lazy or in a hurry to look at his own Brumby )
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
- Posts: 12506
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
- Contact:
Toonga - they're originally from an RX turbo L series. The only touring wagon they would've come from factory was the GT2 like what Chris Rogers started out with for this twin turbo psycho Touring wagon conversion...TOONGA wrote:they are off a 89 l series touring wagon and cost $400 Im really lucky as the rotors and disc pads are near new, (and are in reality as rare as hens teeth well the hubs are)
I've got the same on Ruby Scoo - I'm glad I do as the braking system with the disc/drum combination with the EJ would be outright dangerous! The discs all round, while still L series spec are much better suited to the EJ conversion application, I'd recommend anyone doing an EJ conversion to upgrade the brakes to either L discs all-round or Crossbred conversion which would be the ultimate way to go. I might end up with something like this some day...
Cheers
Bennie
- TOONGA
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Bennie yes they are probably off a sedan but the guy had them on an L series wagon
Steptoe no second backing plate there Ive even looked at the pictures I didn't post to see what you mean .
it took about an hour a side with electric tools, the biggest problem I had was getting the brake drum mounting plates off but a big hammer took care of that.
and not having a proper set of jack stands definitely made working on the car very un-safe
TOONGA
Steptoe no second backing plate there Ive even looked at the pictures I didn't post to see what you mean .
it took about an hour a side with electric tools, the biggest problem I had was getting the brake drum mounting plates off but a big hammer took care of that.
and not having a proper set of jack stands definitely made working on the car very un-safe
TOONGA