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Julian, the last image in post #6 with the brake fluid on the pavers distinctly looks like a second backing plate or dust plate behind the calliper mounting back plate. Have since looked at mine and there is just a drum backing plate which will go.

Thanks for the times guide too.

Thinking I should do a stopping distance test first without attracting too much attention

Likely to go mad looking for my gregories for the Brumby bleed sequence. Not starting 'til I find it either

Jonno.. I'm not sure if there is a sequence or not but I follow the old rule of the furthest away from the Master Cylinder first.. so it would go like this.. LHR, RHR, LHF and lastly RHF and then I go back and do it a second time Works fine for me everytime

Brumby and MY bleed seq as per Gregories

1st RIGHT REAR, FRONT LEFT, LEFT REAR, RIGHT FRONT

It is different to L Series bleed sequence.

Once seen Lasers with similar bleed seq did not like furthest wheel from master as starting point, next furtherest and so on, so being cautious here.

More good info on torque setting for the bolts M10 1.25 pitch for backng plate to hub arm and calliper to backing plate. If bolt has 7 on it ( I assume it is same as 7T) - max of 40Nm (27 ft lbs) from subie manuals based on bolt size, pitch and 7T, 9T etc

Now, oddly my RHS backing plate bolts had a 9 on them, they get a max of 54Nm (40ft lbs)

I also managed to confuse backing plates when I went to mark one as L for left. I managed to fit it to the RHS, torqued up, next the rotor and hub, the calliper carrier bolts too think and something was definitely wrong, even my second attempt failed due to the backing plate not marked as L or R on dismantle ( I blame the factory I really do ) notr were they marked for the odd sleepy head for inside outside either.
I got the L on the right side with calliper cut out in correct position but wrong way out. Third go with correctly marked plate, I got it right. When I tried to copy same error on the left with a photo shoot in mind on how not to do this - it would not line up with holes etc yet right jhand side did. CONFUSED? I WAS !

UPDATE report:

I am so impressed with the performance upgrade of the L Series rear discs on my Brumby. In the dry it feels like the fronts are not under so much pressure or stress to perform 75% or more of the vehicles braking duties. The rear discs are sharing the load so to speak. Wondering what drum brakes did ! I always nicked my drums up at oil changes or before a trip. They were machined and new shoes some years ago but show little evidence of work - as there was stuff all wear in over 100.000km.

We had some light rain last night so took it out for a gentle work up

It was like I had also fitted ABS brakes - no kidding. Not as in brake pedal sinks to floor when ABS at work but I can jump on brakes that are now reluctant to lock up but allow all four tyres to grip and slow me down a hell of a lot faster, usually in old factory disc drum, fronts would lock up and slide, no control until pressure released off pedal. I was able to brake and steering safely left, right and back again, repeatedly at speeds of about 70 - 80 kph in the wet, kangaroos abounding etc.

Tried the brakes s I turned into corners - not something I usually need to do but this thing was so sure footed

Ever since Volvo fitted disc brake rears, in when late 60's ?, the driving consumer should have knocked back drums on rear in show rooms. I was disgusted to see early Imprezas stil had drum brakes.

Anyone who has worked with or on drum brakes would vouch for how archaic they are in their componentry and service and inspect and just how crap they can be compared to disc caliper set ups. ADR's should have outlawed drum rears with pollution control in 1976 - at least !!

Also noticed the body to trailing arm rubber brake hoses have external cracks. Likely to be originals fitted in 1984 so deserving of renewal for safety sake. Often it is cracked hoses that pass rego until they actually start to weep, but having had a nn weeping external crack hose go on me suddenly at low speed - it was no fun. Have found aftermarket hoses made up by brake places a pain. Need a sample and then the original clips not fit the hose, return trip to get badly fitting clips - to save about $15 a hose. This time i have ordered genuine at about $50 each - expecting smooth replacement (other than get brake fluid ooze down sleeves in winter)

Hey Toonga. I got a pair of Tokico CL-9T (Same as yours)rear disc calipers from Rockauto.com in the US for $174 both remanuf. postage was a shocker, and ive got a pair of Vortex XT rotors RDA7554 from Aust. Now Ive found a pair of well used rusty looking rear hubs from a wrecking yard in Penrose, Coldorado USA. They are off a 4x4 turbo Vortex 4cyl, No where in Australia could I get this stuff. Tried wrecking yard in Aust & NZ etc. Just a stroke of luck I found these two hubs on Ebay.pretty rusty looking. Cost $35 each. Have to get them here via a shipping agent and its gonna cost me. Does it look like Im on the right track, with this stuff. Im holding my breath with the hubs and hoping the hub holes match the RDA7554 hubs and the rear stub axle. All ive got to do is find or remanf. a backing plate. This is all for my 91 Brumby ute.

Spend more time in here and you will find they pop up.

It may help if you research the USPS flat rate boxes for shipping and encourage US supplier to use them, 'just' needs a customs form filled out, some stuffing to protect contents and takes 7 to 10 days transit. These then get tracking and sign for treatment by AusPost once in Australia.

My shipping agent is still holding my stuff and waiting for a ransom note any time soon

Last set I imported cost about $200 in postage plus $150 for the set. Went to a board member here, a lot cheaper than $500 from JY's or eBay here still...

adding photos slowly to fix photobucket stupidity

TOONGA